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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took some photos last night, and thought I'd start a thread to solicit advice (and parts!), even though I won't get a photo up until tonight.

History: Red and white 1971 CB175, found on Craigslist, paid $300. Titled! Has 10,520 miles. Previous owner sold it to his father-in-law ten years ago, who put 200 miles on it, broke it, and let it sit. So it went back to the son-in-law to sell, and now it's mine.

Condition: Dirty. Worn. Obviously not treated as a treasure by the teenagers who rode it two decades ago, but was known to run fine in 97, and it's all there. Engine turns over fine. Broken mechanical stuff to fix. My biggest worry is the large amount of rust in the fuel tank. When I get all of it out, I hope there's enough metal left to hold gas. It's not nice enough to restore; I'm just aiming for a reliable commuter that looks cool and is fun (and cheap) to ride.

Fun: The license plate CB175 was available in Ohio. It counts as an "initial" plate rather than a full "personalized" plate, so I think it only costs like $10 a year extra. It's on the way.

Interesting feature: It has an aftermarket two-into-one exhaust, possibly a "MAC" (thanks to 66Sprint for the info.) I wonder if the move was precipitated by damage to the exhaust; the bikes certainly been down a few times. It's got some issues, but it's not a high priority to change. The exhaust comes down below the frame, so it affects ground clearance. Also, they put the muffler on the left (chain) side, which is kinda dumb--they had to cut the lever off the side stand, and the kickstand rests against the muffler when up. The muffler itself is a shorty megaphone (17 inches) with an ugly baffle in need of some decent fiberglass wrapping. I'd like to put a smaller muffler on there if I do anything, but there's very little straight pipe after the two pipes come together for me to attach something to.

And now for the meat of the post....

Parts I could use help with:
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Throttle tube--broken in the last drop/wreck

Right hand switch housing--the part where the lever attaches, on the bottom half of the housing, was bent. So I can't get the two halves tight on a handlebar, or even get both screws in. The whole assembly--wires, switches, and all--seems to be about $50. All I *REALLY* need, though, is the bottom half of that housing and the screws to attach it to the top half.

Stock handlebars--anybody have some takeoffs from a cafe project? If I can't find a shiny pair of stock bars, does anyone know which profile of commonly available 'universal' bars is the closest match?

Positive battery terminal pigtail--It's not absolutely necessary that I replace it, but mine's a bit mangled and hacked-together. There's one on eBay right now, but I was hoping to do better than $20 shipped...

Choke rod--the rod that connects the choke levers on the two carbs. Probably got lost when the carbs were taken off and reinstalled long ago. They rigged a piece of metal with two holes, but it's got a sharp edge that's rubbing on cables and wiring, so I need to improve the situation. Should be part number 16025-306-004.

Other parts for "now:"
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This stuff I'll just get from eBay or other common sources, unless someone has some ideas...
-cables
-headlight
-flasher relay
-battery
-mirrors

Parts for the future:
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This is stuff worth upgrading for cosmetics in the future, if/when I get it running nice.
-fork ears/headlight mounts (bent by dropping it on the turn signals, now rusty and spray-painted
-oil filter cover (gouged by bent brake pedal)
-brake pedal (bent in toward motor)
-headlight bucket (cracks, badly faded paint, will probably spray paint current bucket as an experiment)
-sidecover "175" badges. I have one now; two would be better, even if not matching or from the wrong year.

That's gonna have to be it for now. More updates and photos to follow. Looking forward to hearing from all of you as I dig into this. Also, I'm in Columbus, Ohio--can anyone refer me to a mechanic who'll work on this if I get in over my head?

--Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Photos!

These are in the evening light, after washing off the layer of crud that came with the bike. Also, a shot of the 2-into-1 exhaust.

This bike, this year, has one of my all-time favorite paint schemes of any old bike. Personally, I'm really partial to blue. But the red's pretty classic, and easier to find if I ever go chasing painted parts.

--Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
tbpmusic said:
Wow - you swine !!!! :cry:

That's a beauty - how come I never get finds like that ???????
Not so fast--there's still a ways to go, and I'm still nervous about some big issues. But it's nice to know I'm not the only one who thinks it's pretty enough to save. That means I'm not crazy...or that I found the right place to hang with people who are the same kind of crazy :)
 

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BTW.... That is an aftermarket exhaust, not a "home-made"....I think it's a "MAC"...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
66Sprint said:
BTW.... That is an aftermarket exhaust, not a "home-made"....I think it's a "MAC"...
Good to know, and I stand corrected. Any ideas for a better muffler treatment? And/or a reason why they'd put it on the side that interferes with the kickstand and sidestand?

Edit: And my plate came in the mail today. So now I've got my avatar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Milk Stone Remover and Petcock Problems

Right now I'm invoking the magic of Milk Stone Remover on my rusty tank. At first it was exciting, seeing so much bare gray metal appear in such a short time. Then it turned into a PITA as my petcock began to leak in every position, necessitating a bunch of turning, balancing, catching, cleaning.

I never did find a step-by-step guide to using MSR. I'm using it full strenghth, but I get the impression most people dilute it?

I went to Tractor Supply, hoping to find the $12 gallon. Instead, they only had 5-gallon buckets on clearance for $16. So now I've got a HUGE supply; no sense skimping on it.
When I get done with the tank, can I go dunking every rusty thing I've got in MSR?

And for the record (since I have no owner's manual) what do the markings on the petcock mean? I'm guessing R=reserve, S=stop, ON=on. Is that right? Like I said, it's leaking in every position, but it'd be nice to know which one is SUPPOSED to shut it off.

In other news, I'm not sure how I'm going to get the aftermarket exhaust off to be able to remove the engine. It's all one welded piece wrapped around the frame. Not sure how to move it enough to get the pipes out of the cylinders.

More later...
 

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Dilute MSR by half with water - take off your petcock first !!!!!!

You probably have screwed your petcock now - MSR is not for use with aluminim !!
You should have asked first..........
Start looking for another petcock, and this time don't put any MSR through it.
 

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Re: Milk Stone Remover and Petcock Problems

musicmark said:
In other news, I'm not sure how I'm going to get the aftermarket exhaust off to be able to remove the engine. It's all one welded piece wrapped around the frame. Not sure how to move it enough to get the pipes out of the cylinders.

More later...
From what little I can see on the pictures, you'll have to remove the foot peg bracket which held on my 4 bolts (2 on each side). After that you should just be able to remove the exhaust collars on the engine and it'll come right off.
 

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Re: Milk Stone Remover and Petcock Problems

MNellis said:
musicmark said:
In other news, I'm not sure how I'm going to get the aftermarket exhaust off to be able to remove the engine. It's all one welded piece wrapped around the frame. Not sure how to move it enough to get the pipes out of the cylinders.

More later...
From what little I can see on the pictures, you'll have to remove the foot peg bracket which held on my 4 bolts (2 on each side). After that you should just be able to remove the exhaust collars on the engine and it'll come right off.
You'll never get it off - only a really experienced mechanic can do it.
Might as well give it to me- I'll pick it up in the morning, OK???
:shock: :shock: :eek: :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Seriously, where DID I leave that Milk Stone Remover Manual? Seems like SOMEBODY should have written one by now. Live and learn...I'll start shopping for a petcock.

Believe it or not, I'm a biochemist...shouldn't I have known that phosphoric acid and aluminum would make aluminum phosphate a little too eagerly? Guess that's why the diploma says BIOLOGY instead of chemistry.

So, there was some success on this MSR run. I did get a lot of the tank down to bare metal. Still gunk and rust on one side; maybe I didn't get any of the nuts and bolts over there to scrub it

For the next run, with the petcock OFF....
Will duct tape hold over openings? Rubber stoppers? Both?
And will MSR (used properly) take care of varnish, or should I use another solvent for that, before or after?

Bill2, I need to send you some more pics so you know what you're missing....the bent, spray-canned fork ears, the tire iron gouges all around the back rim, the dent in the tank.... Or maybe it's not really the bike you're hot for--maybe it's that AWESOME two-into-one exhaust :) If it is, I'd trade that straight up for a factory setup if it was at least as shiny.

Speaking of which--thanks, Mike, for the tip. I disconnected the hanger from the footpeg bracket, but there's still interference. Maybe removing it completely will do the trick. And Mike, which bike is that in your avatar? I thought I'd seen that white headlight bucket color scheme before. I might try it with mine, since my bucket is cracked and faded almost completely to silver.
 

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Aluminum and any acid are a bad combo - it's not just MSR, even vinegar will mess it up.
I just use rubber stoppers, duct tape won't do it.

If you still have rust, just let it work longer, that's all. My CB200 tank was so bad it took a week and several MSR changeouts.

What varnish?????
 

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musicmark said:
..... And Mike, which bike is that in your avatar? I thought I'd seen that white headlight bucket color scheme before. I might try it with mine, since my bucket is cracked and faded almost completely to silver.
That's my '68CL350. It's just the stock paint scheme re-painted in my driveway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Everything's Stuck

I'm creeping along in baby steps....

One of the screws on the front sprocket cover won't budge. Haven't stripped the head yet; I just can't get it to budge. It's in my way of unhooking the clutch cable, removing the engine, and a whole bunch of other stuff. Annoying.

Even worse, the throttle tubes won't come out of the carbs. It looks so easy in the manual--"Remove the throttle tubes from the carburetors," it says. When I pull firmly on the throttle cables, I get zero movement. Am I missing something?

To keep my spirits up, though, I make sure to clean something chrome each day with Nevr-Dull. I love that stuff! My turn signals are shiny, and so is my headlight ring. Brakelight mount is next, or maybe the grab bar. The fenders and wheels will be the BIG job. And why do I only have one grab bar, anyway?
 

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Re: Everything's Stuck

musicmark said:
I'm creeping along in baby steps....

One of the screws on the front sprocket cover won't budge. Haven't stripped the head yet; I just can't get it to budge. It's in my way of unhooking the clutch cable, removing the engine, and a whole bunch of other stuff. Annoying.

Even worse, the throttle tubes won't come out of the carbs. It looks so easy in the manual--"Remove the throttle tubes from the carburetors," it says. When I pull firmly on the throttle cables, I get zero movement. Am I missing something?

To keep my spirits up, though, I make sure to clean something chrome each day with Nevr-Dull. I love that stuff! My turn signals are shiny, and so is my headlight ring. Brakelight mount is next, or maybe the grab bar. The fenders and wheels will be the BIG job. And why do I only have one grab bar, anyway?
Take hammer and chisel to the screw - generally works.

After unscrewing the carb tops, the slides should indeed just pull out - Sounds like the carb slides are frozen - not good.
 

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Take the throttle cable loose at the handpiece.....Remove both carbs and the cable and repeatedly spray inside the slide areas in carb cleaner (tops unscrewed for access, and spray through the venturi ("mouth") from both sides.... They tend to get shellaced "stuck", but will eventually come free.... Just a patience thing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
66Sprint said:
Take the throttle cable loose at the handpiece.....Remove both carbs and the cable and repeatedly spray inside the slide areas in carb cleaner (tops unscrewed for access, and spray through the venturi ("mouth") from both sides.... They tend to get shellaced "stuck", but will eventually come free.... Just a patience thing...
That's pretty much what I did last night. I didn't have them all the way off to get the motor side of the venturi, though. Thanks for confirming that I'm on the right track; I'll keep plugging away.

Is there something I can just soak the whole carb in to speed things along, or would that be a bad idea? I've got ATF hanging around, can go get kerosene, have some Simple Green....but hey, carb cleaner's cheap too.

A guy at work used to work at Honda in the 70's, and he brought me the CB125/CB175 service manual, the supplement for the K4 model, and the parts manual. A lot of that is up online, but it's nice to have the clear photos and smell the old paper. Probably the funniest thing is seeing the price list for all the parts...amazing what you could get for a dollar back then.
 

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Aerosol carb cleaner is ok for spraying through openings but I was surprised at the amount of gunk it DIDN'T get compared to when I soaked the disassembled carbs in the 3 quart dip can you can get at the autoparts. I paid $25 for GUNK brand and it has a basket in it for small parts. The dip can explicitly states no plastic or rubber so you'll have to tear them all apart before submerging them.



To clarify, work at it with the carb cleaner until you can tear it all apart then soak the jets and carb bodies for 24 hours and rinse and dry. Be sure to wear gloves and eye protection though, its nasty stuff.
 

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If you happen to pick up the Berrymans carb dip DO NOT soak the carb bodies in it more than a few hours. Keep checking them as well. It leaves a dark grey colored coating on the carb bodies that only comes off with a wire brush and plenty of carb/choke spray cleaner. A real mess! I'm not sure about the Gunk brand..

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Yes, forgot to mention that. It will strip the clear coat and discolor them. Ours were pretty rough looking anyway so it didn't matter.
 
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