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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got this bike about a year ago and finally got time to take her apart. The plan is to keep it stock with OEM parts. It won't be a short term project. Hope to have it done by spring 2013.

Here she is just after I got it. Looks good from 20ft. Attempted to start it and ran on only the left cylinder. Corrected the stuck float valve on the right and it ran. Not good, but it ran :D


After about 2 hours of pulling & categorizing parts. Hope to have it down to the frame soon.


Carburetors were cleaned by the PO. The fuel tank is very corroded & rusted through in several places underneath, not sure I'll be able to save it.


Exhaust are OEM NOS by the PO


I like Candy Blue, but Candy Ruby Red is the color of the '71 CB175 I had. We'll see which color wins out.

Questions...
- what brand of engine gasket sets are recommended and which one(s) should I stay away from?
- I assume the engine was painted Honda Cloud Silver?
- where can I get a set of OEM tires (size and manufacturer)

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Finally got it down to the basic pieces. Found it was used off road and several parts were bent (center stand, foot peg bracket, center stand pivot & rear brake pedal). I'll need to replace some of the parts, but can fix most of them.

The exhausts were probably damaged also, which might explain why new OEM mufflers were on it.


Parts & pieces


 

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Looks like a great 175 to restore, keep the pics coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thought I'd take the bushings out of the swingarm before cleaning & powder coat. Ended up breaking off the first one I tried. They look to be made of carbon.


Fork covers off revealed some seal leakage and plenty of dirt.


Looks like they'll clean up good


Been gathering parts


Parts gathering is one of my favorite things. Must be the thrill of the hunt? The headlight case/bucket and seat are proving to be the biggest challenge.

The engine will get a good inspection with new seals & gaskets, along with any other part that needs to be replaced. The off road riding and spills ended up
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got most of the parts together for bead blasting & powder coat. Only piece missing is the seat pan.


Started working on the forks. They were leaking pretty bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Photo of an NOS kick stand and the one off the bike (was bent-straightened with press, cracked-ground spot will be welded, and someone welded an appendage-will be removed)


I have a toaster oven to cure small painted parts. Put an ABP out on the VW forum and one of the members donated their oven (kitchen remodeling project). I'll use it for the engine cases and covers.

Oldie but Goodie :D


Flapper wheels come in handy for cleaning up spots for scratches and gouges. 120 grit gets most of them out.


The bottom leading edge of the frame after sanding and one coat of paint. The paint gives me an idea of what it will look like after powder coating. Still need to final sand with 320 grit.


Exhaust are cleaned up. The left one has some scratches. Will need to do some research on how to clean them up (if possible).
Parts continue to come it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Took a break from the football games yesterday and got the top of the engine apart. Thought I could remove the head without taking the camshaft and rockers. Nope, rockers shafts hit the studs while pulling the head.


The pistons look good, right one shows some signs of blow-by


Oil, grease & some North Carolina dirt


Memory isn't what it use to be and the detail shots help out latter
 

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If its not too late, make sure the swing arm bushings are out before powdercoat they're not carbon they melt (hindsight's a b!tch) I left them in because I couldn't find replacements and I was crossing my fingers that they would survive the heat (they don't) ended up with a block of teflon on the lathe.
 

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Excellent pics and a really great place to work on your bike :D :D I would love something like that myself :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Simo, thanks for the tip. Haven't taken the parts to be powder coated yet. I've tried to heat the swingarm and remove the bushings, but no luck. Need to try something else.

Thanks Nige, built the barn in 1992 and slowly started to finish it off inside. Its been a labor of love. My friends call it the "mancave".
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
More dis-assembly.

Took the clutch cover off. The three screws holding the oil filter cover on were difficult to get off (even with the impact driver)






The centrifugal oil filter cover is really on there. I'll try heating the basket up with the heat gun and see what happens.
 

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Remove the Phillips head 6mm screw/bolt in the center, and thread an 8mm bolt in....
It will extract the cap as you tighten it in....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks, threading the 8mm bolt in worked great. Service manual had me pulling on the tabs with pliers. Good stuff, Thanks again!

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pic showing the inside of the filter. There's some crud...



Filter & one of the drive gears had to be removed to pull the pump and clutch basket


Detail shot of gear, noting the raised edge


Two bolts hold the oil pump in place


Pump & basket being removed as a unit




Close up of pump intake screen and plunger


Cases after splitting


One windage tray removed, one still in place
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Took the transmission gear sets out, along with the kick starter shaft/gear.


Neutral switch had to be removed before the shifter drum cold be taken out


Screwed a bolt into the shift drum to help push it out


Shifter mechanism had to be removed also




Used a bolt to keep all the parts in their respective order


Shifter drum is held in with a metal keeper, held in with two screws


Now it was time to pull the hairpins which kept the dowels in place for each fork.


Notice that there's one pin missing...


Couldn't get the last dowel out. Had to thread a tap in it, and it still didn't want to come. Ended up using a little valve grinding compound in the hole and slow turned it with a drill motor. About 5 rev's and started to work out.


Now the drum was ready to come out.


Here's a pic of the crankshaft assembly. Its a real piece of engineering. All roller bearings, even on the rods. No wonder its got a 10,500rpm red line :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Cleaned a bit today. First a bath in the solvent tank (mainly degreaser, water soluble). Idea was to get the big stuff off. The parts will get another cleaning later.






After a few hours in the cabinet (glass beads). Not to worry, only the external parts were blasted. More cleaning & prep work for painting will follow
 

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Great Photo's, very nice work. Looking forward to seeing it start coming back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks John

Did some more cleaning

Before






After






Pic of valve layout (only parts missing are the washers or shims that go between the head and the springs)
Exhaust valves have two seals each - Intake none




Exhaust valve guide(s), checked out good :)


Intakes were good too


Misc


 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not much progress, but thought the regulator needed some attention. Haven't tested it, hopefully it'll do its thing after I install it.

Here's a pic after a masked off the label


Turned the air pressure down in the cabinet and took the rust & finish off. Painted with Stainless paint and used red touch-up for the screw and setting plug.
 
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