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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
you guys are gonna love this. if nothing else a good laugh for all of you.

HELP!

was there ever a diagram of how these go together produced? anyone care to take a super up close pic of their controls insides for me? i'm sure i'll get it right eventually... i was so excited to "brush-alumin-ize" these i forgot that i need to put them back together. they look really great cleaned up btw.
 

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Sensei
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It would take less time for you to ship them to me, have me fix them, and mail them back, than it would take for me to explain how to fix them.....Assuming you haven't lost any parts.... :(
 

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Sensei
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Deacon, They should be identical to the 72 350 control units......
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the confidence builder bill. and thanks for the possible help deacon and steve. i'm getting better at this then i ever dreamed.

this wasn't rocket science after all. all switches and buttons 'feel' the same as before i disassembled. and zero leftover pieces! i'm confident they'll work, we'll see.
 

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You beat me to it, good stuff. Looks like you have it all squeezed in there. Here are the pics anyway, just in case.

Top-half Left Control:


Bottom-half Left Control:


Top-half Right Control:


Bottom-half Right Control:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
now, if i wanted to test lets say, my headlight, what bare bones wiring would i need to try?

battery connected, rectifier and regulator connected. starter connected, turned on. switch from controls to wiring harness connected. headlight to wiring harness connected. did i miss anything? shouldn't this theoretically work? anything in these pics jump out at you as WRONG?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
nobody wants to attempt to troubleshoot my electrical problem? still nothing here and i'm getting desperate. can anybody talk me through getting my headlight to light up?

couple of dumb questions.
do i NEED to have the ignition plugged in and turned on for this simple test?
from my stock wiring harness, should there only ONE green ground wire attached to my battery(neg terminal) for this simple test? how many attached to the positive terminal?

desperate and anxious...
 

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uhohferris said:
nobody wants to attempt to troubleshoot my electrical problem? still nothing here and i'm getting desperate. can anybody talk me through getting my headlight to light up?

couple of dumb questions.
do i NEED to have the ignition plugged in and turned on for this simple test?
from my stock wiring harness, should there only ONE green ground wire attached to my battery(neg terminal) for this simple test? how many attached to the positive terminal?

desperate and anxious...
On your battery ground you should see a big strip/wire that goes to one of the rear engine mount bolts, as well as a smaller green to your harness.

All black wires in your system are hot, +12 volts after the key switch.
So if you want to test the headlight, you'll need to turn the key on or jumper 12 volts.
The headlight wires are obvious - blue (high beam), white (low beam), green.
Just jumper a green to the ground, 12 volts to the blue and white, to make sure the lamp actually works.

Your right side handlebar switch should have at least two black wires going in, both are hot after the key switch. One of them goes through the kill switch and becomes the black/white that feeds the points and ignition system.
The other black goes through the headlight switch and becomes the hi/lo feeds.
They all connect to wires from the main harness, in the headlight shell.

While you're in there, find the yellow and white/yellow coming from the end of the harness - connect them together and you'll turn your charging system on max by default. You can't screw it up, the connectors are male/female, won't allow you to make a mistake. That will be one less thing to worry about in the switch you're dealing with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
woohoo!

i'm really not sure what i had wrong but i'm memorizing my connections now! thanks bill, it just light up upon reconnecting everything...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
one more thing. it's been a while since i've ridden this thing obviously. the kill switch does NOT effect the lights? so if i have the switch to OFF, the lights can/still-will be on?
 

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The "kill" ONLY affects power to the coils... Everything else including the electric start should work...the engine will just not fire...
 

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uhohferris said:
one more thing. it's been a while since i've ridden this thing obviously. the kill switch does NOT effect the lights? so if i have the switch to OFF, the lights can/still-will be on?
No, the lights shouldn't work unless the key switch is on.
Depending on the model, there is some variation regarding the brown wires - sometimes there is a second position on the key switch, just powers the taillight only. The brown wire also powers the taillight during normal operation.
So just like the black, the brown is hot after the key switch, but is only a taillight wire.
And also a brown/white from the key switch - it's only involved with indicator lights and should be 12 volts when the key is on.
Red wire is hot straight off the battery, always 12 volts.
Like Steve said, the kill switch is only involved with the ignition circuit, it's independent of everything else except the key switch.

With the key off, nothing should work......


And I should have mentioned -
If your right handlebar switch is the "newer" lights on all the time types, then the black wire going to the hi/lo switch actually goes through the starter button first.

Push the button and the headlight circuit is temporarily disabled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
many thanks again. i'm on my way now.

thinking about a simple bracket system i can fabricate to mount the headlight. i still have em but i don't want to use the stock mounts. looks like there are plenty of possible mounting "bolts" to run off of from the trees. i know someone will chime in about the ground wires/bolt mounting screws coming off of the "sides" of the headlight. if my bracket is made of say aluminum and bolted to the trees would that still create the necessary ground?
 

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uhohferris said:
many thanks again. i'm on my way now.

thinking about a simple bracket system i can fabricate to mount the headlight. i still have em but i don't want to use the stock mounts. looks like there are plenty of possible mounting "bolts" to run off of from the trees. i know someone will chime in about the ground wires/bolt mounting screws coming off of the "sides" of the headlight. if my bracket is made of say aluminum and bolted to the trees would that still create the necessary ground?
Yes - aluminum makes a fine ground.

Why not get some aftermarket fork ears - they're not expensive at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i'm curious to see what you've seen bill? got links to anything in particular?
 

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uhohferris said:
i'm curious to see what you've seen bill? got links to anything in particular?

Well, Ebay is full of stuff like this, in chrome and black - $22 or so.



I paid more and got these real nice aluminum ears (~$40, as I recall) -

 
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