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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here is what I am looking for:

SWITCH, STARTER STOP
35130-377-P00

Except all I need is the lower half!!!!!!!!!


The dude I bought my bike from was in the process of getting rid of the kill switch and electronic starter, but realized that it is state law that you need a killswitch. I am looking to put this baby back together, but I don't want to spend a hundred dollars or so for an ENTIRE new switch assembly, I just want that little part, which the OEM fiche does not separate. I can't find anyone on eBay that will only part with that half.
 

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Sensei
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I have a box of partial switch units.... Got a drawing or pic of the part you need? (the broken part will do)
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
66Sprint said:
I have a box of partial switch units.... Got a drawing or pic of the part you need?
Steve
Wow I am surprised I took this picture. This is what I have just dangling about. All I need is the lower half!


UPDATE:
The lower half of this part is what I desire
 

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Sensei
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I should have several..... PM me your real name and snail-mail address ..... And disc or drum brake?.... (What year or K and cc of your bike?... CB or CL?)....Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
PM Sent

Oh right I should have mentioned:
1975 Honda CB360t
 

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Sensei
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Reasonably certain I have one....Will PM back once I check....Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not to bug you about this or anything, but any news on this part? :oops:
 

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Sensei
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Not yet, still digging....( And NO problem being anxious about getting what you need, THAT I understand completely! ).. Unfortunately, every time i go to the shop, people stop by to chat, buy parts, ask questions, etc.. :roll: ... I have several milk crates nearly full of switch units, so it may take another day to dig through them all.... BUT I'm almost certain I'll have it for you... :D .... Steve
 

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Sensei
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DUDE!.....I have the complete unit!.... "kill", H/L off-on, and starter button (not to mention the places where the push and pull throttle cables screw in...... You can phone me if you'd like, so I can get it in the mail first thing tomorrow....... (540) 525 5199 cell, I'll call you back on house phone (540) 427 4256.... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
THANK YOU!!!!! Part came in today! :D :D :D :D :D
 

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Sensei
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Good, Cause I can't find the tracking number....LMAO!..... :D

Hope it meets your needs!.... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Alright Steve, I really hope I didn't f**k this up. So I did not want to drill out my clubman handlebars, so I saw what the previous owner did for the left side controls. He used a grinder/file to rub out a groove big enough for the wiring from the controls (turn signals + horn) to come out of the side snugged in between that groove and the handlebars. I figured I would do the same with your right hand starter switch assembly. I used a file to make a crescent shape in the lower half to permit the wiring to come out of the side as well, but the two halves of the starter switch do not come together. There is a pin in the lower half of the starter switch that is pushing against my clubmans, which is the reason why it does not close together all the way. I take it this serves to lock the switch in place on the handlebars (provided there is a hole) and serve as the connection to the ground. To go around this, I filed this pin down so that the starter switch can close all the way. I have not tested the electrical system or this starter yet, but I would like to know if I made a huge mistake here.
 

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Sensei
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Not a HUGE mistake, but that pin DOES provide positive grounding, and more importantly, prevents the controls from rotating on the bars......IF the bars are well grounded, problem #1 is solved, (or you can add an extra ground wire)..... but you may have to tighten them so much (to prevent rotation) that the 5mm internal tapped threads may strip....This is sometimes (improperly) solved by wrapping a layer of "friction" electrical tape on the bar to act as a cushion and frictive area, but of course, that would eliminate the ground, and make it MORE prone to strip...
Those pins are knurled/splined and will pull out, maybe you can swap the "old" one back if you have it..... If you have really ground it down, (and can't pull the stub) you are stuck, and I don't have another spare unit or bottom half.......HOWEVER, if it works and doesn't spin, you might be OK...
NOTE that the wires may pinch and short if the channel isn't deep enough, and a deeper channel means looser clamping... Catch 22....
Sorry to confirm your fears.....Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Steve. I won't really know for certain until I get the wiring all re-connected sometime this winter. When I do, I will try and give the starter a quick push and see if I hear any noise. I really hope I don't have to burden you with another replacement.
 
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