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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!

So I've been working on this lovely lady for a few weeks since I've recently gotten a lot of free time. (thank you covid) this is the first bike I can say is my own. I was told "she ran till I parked her and that was a long time ago.ç

I'm having a little trouble with the right carburetor.
The throttle cable would not pull open the butterfly. I've fiddled with some carb cleaner and now it's working loose. The left one seems fine.

The tank is a project its self it's a beautiful deep green and gold but around the gas cap it is really weak and I'm unsure if there is a solution to save the tank ( i believe its the original tank)

Sorry I'm rambling.

Cheers!
310145
 

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The problem you describe is either going to be the butterfly itself sticking or an issue with the throttle cable. The rest of the carb internals operate off a vacuum. If you don’t have a manual you will want the Factory Service Manual. Someone here should be able to link to it, I’m surprised Ancientdad hasn’t yet.
Your tank situation doesn’t sound too promising if there is a perceptible weak spot. Maybe take a flashlight and a small extendable dental type mirror to investigate. Oh and provide us all with more pictures. They say 1000 words. Good luck with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the advice! I do have a clymer manual for 450s and 500s. I did get It to loosen up quite a bit. And it seems that there may have been some gas that dried to varnish in the carb and is sticking. It is causing the spring to have trouble closing the butterfly on its own.
 

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I think you really need to take those carbs off the bike and apart and clean everything thoroughly. Nothing should be sticking anywhere.
There is no shortcut to this and unless you know you have clean carbs to begin with you will ever be chasing carb related issues so why not do it right in the first place.
Just take everything apart and clean them. Replace all the gaskets and o-rings if needed but don't replace the brass bits (jets, needles, etc...)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Put that Clymer to good use as a doorstop or beer coaster
It's a so so manual to me. Doesn't answer a lot but the wiring diagrams are nice.

I think you really need to take those carbs off the bike and apart and clean everything thoroughly. Nothing should be sticking anywhere.
There is no shortcut to this and unless you know you have clean carbs to begin with you will ever be chasing carb related issues so why not do it right in the first place.
Just take everything apart and clean them. Replace all the gaskets and o-rings if needed but don't replace the brass bits (jets, needles, etc...)
I was thinking about that but, that is the only issue with this specific carb. Though I'll be honest I haven't touched the other one yet and I don't want too till this one is done. One piece at a time haha
 

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Carbs come as a pair on these bikes. They should be synched and balanced. That means whatever you do to one you should also do to the other. It doesn't make a lot of sense to work on the carbs piecemeal at a time. Just saying....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You do have a point and I plan to be consistent but I want to work on one at a time so that nothing gets lost seeing as I'm doing this in my pops garage I don't want him to move stuff on the bench. Also since we weren't sure what had been causing the gumming I only took the slide out and cover off nothing extra has been done.
 

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Take pictures before you take the carbs off unless it’s too late. Either way it’s not that big of a deal to get things squared away later. Anytime I have pairs of things I try and only disassemble one at a time so you always have a reference to look at. At the same time 76Twin is spot on, you do have to go through both carbs completely to even begin to get things right.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I did take pics of what I took apart and really got In good with the residue that was inside the carbs. I put them back together and back on the bike. Thou I haven't put the air cleaners back on just yet. I've got the battery on trickle charge so I can test lights soon.

I'm also gonna be looking for a tank for this bike cause I really sadly dont see this tank being the one I use. The weakness arround the cap worries me. I'd be worried I'd be using her to get to work or something and I'd be careless going to work and that weakness would give.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey guys so I'm having some issues i was looking in to what electrical stuff worked and what didnt I have to worry about looks like the worst I've got is I believe my headlight is always on high beam. Not sure if there are messed up connections on to the unit on the handle bar or not. I do not know if there is the spark plugs are producing spark.

 

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You may have an issue in the switch since your high beam is on constantly but you can try running a temporary ground wire from a motor fin to a handlebar bolt to see if your starter will work. Bars have to be grounded for it to start. Simple quick test
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay so I'm still trying to diagnose the problem with my headlight... but it does still come on so that's a plus!

Me and pops hooked a rigged test tank to test if the engine will run with fuel and well SHE RUNS! That made today awesome!

I've got a couple questions if you guys can entertain this newbie.

I have been looking for a tank for this bike it is a CB but I have been offered two tanks. One is a CL 450 tank. If I'm correct it's a smaller tank than the CB so would that fit my frame having a seat that opens from the tank end up?

The second is a 500t tank. That I'm not sure how much bigger that would be and if it could fit.

I ask because I dont have that knowledge and I don't want to buy something I cannot be sure of.
 
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