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Discussion Starter #1
Hey y'all! Very new rider and beginning mechanic here with a project bike on my hands. So let me catch you up to speed on what I'm dealing with and where I am so far. My fiance bought me a 1970 CB350 K2 for Christmas and I've been jumping head first into tearing her down and restoring her. I'm trying to keep her as original/stock as possible but might make a few changes here and there and I'm definitely not opposed to replacing parts if there's just no way to save them. As you can see by the title, she's a little rusty and so has been a bit of a struggle at times to tear down but can't complain too much as this is a great learning experience, fun, and my fiance got her for a song.

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So on to the bike. As you can tell from the pic, a lot has already been removed. Seat, shocks, handlebars, battery box, headlight, controls, speedo, tac, coil, carbs, air filters, and back tire have all been taken off. Where I'm getting in to some difficulty is with the crankcase covers. I've got two screws on the left side that will not budge, so they got stripped, and following a video I started drilling them out. I tried heating them, impact driving them, and finally settled on drilling them out by following a youtube video. This technique worked great for two screws I had stuck earlier but is giving me trouble now. The right side is similar with even more screws just plain stuck. On the fiche below for the left side we're talking about parts #19 and #15 on the bottom left and right of the "HONDA" cover. I drilled on both for almost an hour and didn't get the screw head to come off. The left one is pretty dead center while the right one got a little off center and I'm a little concerned I screwed it up.

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Any advice for how to remove these? Keep drilling? Are the screwed up? I've got more screws on the right side crankcase that are located in the smaller cover piece that I;m concerned about drilling into also. Taking general advice on any and all items as well. Recommendations on a cheapish stand? Any knowledge is appreciated!

Special shout out to @Saturdays Wrench. His videos and thread have been a huge help and I can really say without his videos I would not be this far along or this confident in the build. Thanks!
 

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You might try an easy out, google it. The original screws were designed for a JIS Phillips head driver not standard Phillips drivers. Pick up a impact screwdriver and use a JIS driver bit. I use a chisel for ones that have been stripped place it at a 45 degree angle and be careful not to damage the cover. It's easier to use the chisel method on the smaller screws like the ones in the oil filter and the generator if the side cover is removed and placed flat on a work bench and secured with screws.



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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info. Yea I did some research on the JIS screws and had already done too much before I heard about them. I've also heard mixed things about easy outs but I'll look into a little more.
 

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Bought these today and I'll give them a try this weekend. Going to watch a few youtube videos and see if it helps. Anyone had any experience with these? I read the link below and I'm a little confused on whether or not these screws not having "Left hand drill" on the label will be a problem or not.

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Catalog
 

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Drilling screws can be tough on drill bits, looks like yours may have gotten dull. You'll need to drill a hole to use the easy outs, doesn't matter if right or left hand bits.
 

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You were on the right track, possibly just need better drill bits. On 6mm screws I use a 1/8" bit to get things started then go to a 1/4" bit and the head of the screw pops right off. Less than 1 minute per screw. Once the head is off stop drilling, you want to leave enough of the screw to grab on with a pliers or vise grips.
 

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I agree on needing better/sharper drill bits. Once the head of the screw is gone, the cover will come right off and the shank of the stuck screws will be sticking out proud. Just grab them with a pair of vise grips and turn them out. If they indeed are still 'frozen' use some penetrating oil and lots of patience.
 

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If they indeed are still 'frozen' use some penetrating oil and lots of patience.
Start with this before using any impact driver with JIS head. The friction between screw and cover is mainly caused by the flange era. Use penetrating oil for a few days on all screws and try with a JIS driver first (without the impact driver).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the replies. I've been using penetrating oil since day one. The only JIS screwdriver I have came with the bike and neither it nor any other screwdrivers or impact drivers would get it to turn.

I think I'm going to go with the extractor screw method. Anyone have a good how to or youtube link on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No work on the bike this weekend but in the mean time and jumping way ahead, can anyone id this muffler set up on this CB350? They sound amazing and I'd love to know what they are.

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@zippo69 I'm curios how you're fairing with the rusty body and parts. I'm looking at a similar '73 CB350 on the list of Craigs right now, but it's also rusted to hell. Has yours been too much to handle yet? I'm worried because this would be my first bike but I could probably also get it for very little money. Just curios if it would be too expensive and difficult to get the body back to good condition.

I'll keep an eye on you to see how yours turns out first. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@Nivens Thanks man! I'll take a look at these.

@micketymac Hey man. I was 100% in your spot just a few months ago. I had very little knowledge of anything mechanical whatsoever prior to this build and not much riding experience either. That being said I've had a ton of fun with this bike already. There's been a few hang ups (oil drain plug needing a breaker bar to turn, the current stuck/stripped crank case covers) but other than that it really hasn't been too bad and it's been fun to do it myself and really experience tearing down a motor vehicle that was so unthinkable to me not that long ago. I'm hoping to be able to salvage as much of the original parts as I can but there are a few items that are just way too rusty and pitted to even try to keep.

I'd say if you can get the bike for super cheap to even cheap and as long as the main components (engine, carbs, frame) aren't too rusty, everything else can either be cleaned or replaced. I was amazed at how much could be cleaned and de-rusted and used again. My plan is to get a full tear down, clean everything with degreaser, and then try out some evapo-rust that I've read does an amazing job clearing off rust and leaving the paint. I'll be sure to update here but in the mean time I highly recommend SaturdaysWrench's vids on youtube. They're a huge help to me as I work on the bike and even for planning purposes and showing you how you can bring an old bike back to life. Good luck!
 

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Alright, back with an update about the banner day I had yesterday. Happy to say that all the screws finally came out and I didn't even have to use the extractor bits. For whatever reason when I started drilling the smaller pilot holes for the extractor bits I noticed the screw start turning. So grabbed some needle nose pliers and pulled those suckers out. Then tried the impact drive again on the right crank case as a final time before drilling them out and Ruby helped out and they all came out. I've been spraying those things for a month and hammered on them tons of times, but whatever, they're finally out!

So below are pics of the left and right crank cases off. I'd love to get some opinions on how the inside of the engine looks so far. I pulled off another bolt while the covers were off and got a little bit of dust/crap inside the engine on the right side. Brushed it away but me being paranoid I worry if that will cause and problems. So the questions are:

How does the engine look so far?
Did I screw up too bad getting a tiny bit of crap in the engine?
How much deeper do I need to go into the engine to get a good assessment of if it needs rebuilding?
Did I screw up too bad by drilling out a little too much on the left side screw hole on the "Honda" cover?
Any cleaning tips for the engine both inside and out?

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Discussion Starter #17
Whew...almost done with the teardown. Just have the forks and tree left and then I'll be moving on to try to de-rust as much as possible. The engine took some maneuvering to get out but was able to finish it. Front tire took a little longer than expected as well. All in all not a bad weekend progress-wise. Even got to use my new fancy stand.

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It's good that you got those bolts out without having to use the extractors. Easy-Outs are fine tools when used exactly correctly, but it is very easy to use too much force and break one off inside the bolt. When that happens, about all you can do is take it to a shop that does EDM (Electro Discharge Machining) and have the hardened piece of the broken tool burned out.

Ray
 

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Thanks all. So another question for planning purposes. I'm going to try to clean up everything that I think can be salvaged and I'm not sure what I should seal up after cleaning. I'm going to degrease, then use evaporust, and then from there I'm not sure what needs to be sealed or what to use. Any tips or anyone had experience with this level if rust removal/cleaning?
 
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