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1969 Honda CB350 Clutch / Kick Starter Issues

1620 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  pattyandrick
Hi guys,

I moved up to a 1969 Honda CB350 after fixing up a CB200. When I first got the bike it wouldn't idle, shift, and the carbs would overflow with fuel. So far I've rebuilt the carbs, tensioned the cam chain, set the valve clearance, along with the ignition timing. After the maintenance the Bike would turn over and idle with no overflow from the carbs but shifting was still an issue.

Issue 1: I reassembled the clutch mechanism (missing the ball bearing). And the bikes shifting is now random. On some days I can shift down into fist but not second. On other days I can't shift into first. Only Neutral to second and third. The guy I got the bike off of mentioned the PO had removed a gear, but I'm lost on what would cause this erratic behavior.

Issue 2: in attempts to make the bike lighter I removed the electric starter to opt for kick start only. After this change the bike no longer turns over. Any leads on what would cause the bike to start with the electric starter but not kick only?

Any help would be appreciated, thank you
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Adjust the clutch.

The Kick Starter Shaft turns the Crankshaft via the Transmission.
It MUST be in NEUTRAL to use the kick starter.
If you Pull in the clutch you disengage the mechanics that turn the crank.
When you removed the starter did you also take off the left side cover and remove the drive chain and the sprocket that was on the starter motor? If not they a jammed and wont let the engine turn over.
You need the ball bearing in the clutch mechanism in order for it to work properly.
Good point on the parts that would be left behind inside the Let Side Cover.
The Starter Shaft has a Sprocket and Chain Drive that goes to the Crankshaft.
The Nose of the Starter Shaft is supported inside that cover and when you slide the Starter out that Sprocket and chain assembly will drop down inside the cover and JAM.

Part #5 is the Sprocket that fits on the Splined shaft of the Starter Motor, and will fall down inside the case.
The Chain goes to a one-way clutch driven sprocket behind the Stator.

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I haven't checked this post since my initial post. I wasn't expecting this many responses, I appreciate everyones time.

@Yendor Electric, @Boomer343 Electric starter-Yes everything was removed when I went kick only.No longer turns over: I meant the bike will not start now that I'm kick only.

@mike in idaho I bought the ball bearing, greased all the components and adjusted the clutch about 3 times. I followed the methods outlined in the forums here.

Where I'm at now: The guy I bought the bike off of mentioned the PO hand messed around with the gears. Due to this intel I split the cases to have a look at the bottom end. Good news is the forks are in good shape, no bending or grind marks of any sort. Bad news a few screws broke in the process. I checked both drums to ensure they're in place with the aluminum dowels / rings. How easy should it be to shift through the gears with a screw driver? Unsure if I was doing something wrong but it felt difficult when I first attempted.

Another outstanding question. Can anyone tell me how the Kick Start spindle / return spring are suppose to be oriented in the case (350 K0)? Is there a specific amount of torque that spring needs to be at?

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Calling out to all Honda CB350 gurus out there.

This weekend:

I checked the neutral detent. Can confirm there's a ball bearing (not a weird shape) and spring. It's in the correct spot on the gear shift drum.

I removed the transmission multiple times and checked the forks. I noticed no wired behavior with regards to the movement of each fork on the shift drum. Without the transmission, I was able to manually shift through all the gears.

I installed the transmission back onto the forks making sure everything lines up with the dowels and rings. Once I place the transmission on, I get feedback when shifting. What I notice is I get false nuetrals when shifting from second to third. Or I'm unable to shift gears, unsure if it's due to how slow I was moving the gears.

I removed the shift drum roller. Checked the spring and lubed the roller itself. There's no weird play or clear wear of the roller. I checked the washer behind the tightening bolt and it's also there. The shifting issues persist.

Out of curiosity I placed the shifter back in place and notice I'm unable to shift at all via the shifter. Any help / leads would be appreciated.

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Took a video of the shifting behavior after I placed the transmission on the forks.
Will it go into the gear positions if you turn the shift drum with a screwdriver on the end? Also, you need to turn the input shaft to get it to shift, the forks cant move the gears until the engagement dogs line up.
Will it go into the gear positions if you turn the shift drum with a screwdriver on the end? Also, you need to turn the input shaft to get it to shift, the forks cant move the gears until the engagement dogs line up.
Screwdriver shifting is a yes. But even with manual shifting I've been getting false nuetrals when shifting from second to third gear. Just making sure I'm not missing anything before I bolt up and mount the engine on the frame.
What about the roller and spring on the star wheel of the drum. That's what holds it in gear and not false neutral.

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