1969 Honda CB350 Clutch / Kick Starter Issues

Good point on the parts that would be left behind inside the Let Side Cover.
The Starter Shaft has a Sprocket and Chain Drive that goes to the Crankshaft.
The Nose of the Starter Shaft is supported inside that cover and when you slide the Starter out that Sprocket and chain assembly will drop down inside the cover and JAM.

Part #5 is the Sprocket that fits on the Splined shaft of the Starter Motor, and will fall down inside the case.
The Chain goes to a one-way clutch driven sprocket behind the Stator.

I haven't checked this post since my initial post. I wasn't expecting this many responses, I appreciate everyones time.

@Yendor Electric, @Boomer343 Electric starter-Yes everything was removed when I went kick only.No longer turns over: I meant the bike will not start now that I'm kick only.

@mike in idaho I bought the ball bearing, greased all the components and adjusted the clutch about 3 times. I followed the methods outlined in the forums here.

Where I'm at now: The guy I bought the bike off of mentioned the PO hand messed around with the gears. Due to this intel I split the cases to have a look at the bottom end. Good news is the forks are in good shape, no bending or grind marks of any sort. Bad news a few screws broke in the process. I checked both drums to ensure they're in place with the aluminum dowels / rings. How easy should it be to shift through the gears with a screw driver? Unsure if I was doing something wrong but it felt difficult when I first attempted.

Another outstanding question. Can anyone tell me how the Kick Start spindle / return spring are suppose to be oriented in the case (350 K0)? Is there a specific amount of torque that spring needs to be at?

-Matt

Calling out to all Honda CB350 gurus out there.

This weekend:

I checked the neutral detent. Can confirm there's a ball bearing (not a weird shape) and spring. It's in the correct spot on the gear shift drum.

I removed the transmission multiple times and checked the forks. I noticed no wired behavior with regards to the movement of each fork on the shift drum. Without the transmission, I was able to manually shift through all the gears.

I installed the transmission back onto the forks making sure everything lines up with the dowels and rings. Once I place the transmission on, I get feedback when shifting. What I notice is I get false nuetrals when shifting from second to third. Or I'm unable to shift gears, unsure if it's due to how slow I was moving the gears.

I removed the shift drum roller. Checked the spring and lubed the roller itself. There's no weird play or clear wear of the roller. I checked the washer behind the tightening bolt and it's also there. The shifting issues persist.

Out of curiosity I placed the shifter back in place and notice I'm unable to shift at all via the shifter. Any help / leads would be appreciated.