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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so after bugging most of the moderators and some members I feel compeled to put up a log (even though i'm mostly done) because like everyone else here i like to look at pictures of builds.

This is when i first got it, thanks matthew...
[attachment=4:14ygyc9t]NIK 095 ROLLS VAG 1005 013.jpg[/attachment:14ygyc9t]

So i'm a real green rider, graduating the MSF only four or so months ago and after seeing a 350 with 360 forks and having my mind set on a cafe or in my case for the time being a semi-cafe racer i decided to get 360 forks. An added benefit was having disk brakes which i feel more confient on, especially after reading about drum brakes and all the con's. Not that disk are perfect but at least i feel confident right...

Fast forward three months, after holding what was the worst second job in the world and gathering enough funds, I drove up to rhinebeck (where chelsea Clinton just got married) to rip the front end off a 360. not sure if you guys are around upstate new york but the guy i went to, Chris, had basically a private motorcycle yard and i believe he parts out items regularly for all bikes.

Here I am removing the 360 front end.
[attachment=3:14ygyc9t]IMG_0468.JPG[/attachment:14ygyc9t]

Here's the bike with the front removed.
[attachment=2:14ygyc9t]IMG_0563.JPG[/attachment:14ygyc9t]

After pondering about what kind of people leave these great bikes lying around to rot i began to work on the master cylinder, I won't show you all the anger it took to get apart but here's the end result. DOT 3 Brake fluid dries up like snot.
[attachment=1:14ygyc9t]IMG_0568.JPG[/attachment:14ygyc9t]
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I'm not to sure how long these posts can be and because i was scared i would lost that whole post by a freak internet outage i decided to post and continue.

here's the 360 front end all fixed up (i have no real tools so a rag is my polishing wheel)
[attachment=4:ynuo7uct]IMG_0565.JPG[/attachment:ynuo7uct]

After today, here is where i left off today. I move like a snail through this project thanks to a total lack of everything
[attachment=3:ynuo7uct]IMG_0578.JPG[/attachment:ynuo7uct]

Things left to accomplish: here's the real reason why i had to make a topic

The wheel bearings: i need to grease them but i can't remove the wheel bearing holder thingy

This: [attachment=2:ynuo7uct]IMG_0581.JPG[/attachment:ynuo7uct]

I guess there's a tool for that right, any idea where i can find one (autozone?)

Oh here's basically my only before and after shot, it's the handlebar switches.
[attachment=1:ynuo7uct]IMG_0572.JPG[/attachment:ynuo7uct]

How does it get all that crap in it? i guess time isn't nice to these things, i cleaned it in mineral spirits and here's the end result. my camera either kills pictures with flash or never uses it when needed...
[attachment=0:ynuo7uct]IMG_0575.JPG[/attachment:ynuo7uct]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
problem number two:

I know there's a way to have the charger charge at max all the time, something about a yellow and a yellow/white wire and connecting them. The problem is i can only find a yellow, not yellow/white. I know my eyes are bad but they aren't that bad, unless it comes from the headlight switch in which case i only see two white wires no yellow/white.

Is there anyway to have better connectors then the honda ones? i was thinking of something similar to those plastic things
that are in the computer that you connect the power cable to. or is this the best way.
[attachment=0:3a7z7zgk]IMG_0579.JPG[/attachment:3a7z7zgk]

anyway this is where I am today, tomorrow i'll have to go to a shop and get holes in my handlebars. darn drill presses. hopefully i'll finally be able to commute to school on this then on the darn subway.
 

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If they're originals, which they likely are, then for safety sake you should replace them. ESPECIALLY if you see any visable cracks in the rubber line, no matter how small. As bad as that master cylinder was, I think I'd replace the brake lines and the master with new universal units/parts from Ebay.


As for the wheel bearings. You can see in your picture where the wheel bearing retainer ring is staked in place with a punch/hammer. You'll need to drill those out ever so slightly. Then you can use a flat piece of steel that fits across the bearing retainer and into the grooves on either side, and turn it with vice grip pliers.. After taking your axle out of course..


Wheel bearings are ultra cheap to replace and good insurance for safety as well. Either from Ebay or any online bearing supplier. There will be numbers on the bearings that you can use to look up replacements on any bearing wholesaler website. I've got them for as little as .99 each but had to order 12cnt to get that price. "RB Tech" Bearings from "RBI Bearings Inc." were what I purchased.



GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
hey gb,

how far should i drill, i started a little but i'm unsure how much i should take away (don't want a hole). Also how would i fab a piece of metal to fit in the grove? Can i cut up something that i would prob have in my house and use that?

I also got a universal master cylinder from ebay so it should be here soon.

Thanks
Tom
 

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Just drill far enough in so that it appears the two metals aren't staked together any longer. Then try to twist it out. If it doesn't budge easily then you can drill a little more. Then twist more. Penetrating oil may help as well..

The metal piece can be made from any strip of metal that's as thick as you can physically fit into the grooves. If you have a local scrapyard around or welding shop then take the measurements (thickness/inside measurement of the grooves) with you and tell them what thickness you need. They could even cut it to length for you for cheap possibly..


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok, got it out now how do i get to the bearings? heres where i left off...
[attachment=2:2xg9mem5]IMG_0588.JPG[/attachment:2xg9mem5]
Do i pull that inner metal tube out and the bearings are on the other side? I can see there are three of the tube like things or can i push all three out.

also took your advice and got a universal master cylinder off ebay, it looks pretty nice plus it fits my setup perfectly.
[attachment=1:2xg9mem5]IMG_0589.JPG[/attachment:2xg9mem5]

Only 1 problem, the banjo bolts don't fit in it, it looks like a flair fitting. is there a usual size for these things? think autozone would have something that would fit?
[attachment=0:2xg9mem5]IMG_0590.JPG[/attachment:2xg9mem5]

Thanks
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update: just pumped out the old brake piston, can't find camera right now so i'll look tmrw but rest assured, it was nasty. Full of more dried brake fluid. Would it be alright to clean it with some fine grit sandpaper after soaking it in kerosene tonight? And the o-ring, it looked special. Would there be any problems replacing it with a standard round one instead of the rectangular shaped one currently in? The piston after a little clean looked half good, maybe it was replaced with stainless by the previous. I'll take a magnet to it and find out.

Tom
 

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I would keep sand paper away from the caliper and would only replace the seal with another correct one. The round profiled seals would not work as a normal one does. They are square section for a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
your probely right about that bike-mart, i guess a 6 dollar seal isn't that bad. I did leave it soaking in gasoline to get some of the dried out gunk out though and hit it with a old toothbrush. It worked out alright though theres still a rust-like color stain still there.
[attachment=2:8is4ti9o]IMG_0596.JPG[/attachment:8is4ti9o]

The piston didn't look that bad after a clean, i'm guessing its original.
[attachment=1:8is4ti9o]IMG_0600.JPG[/attachment:8is4ti9o]

Looking around for a banjo bolt in strauss and autozone yielded no result so i guess i'll have to order online, as well as brake pads.

Has anyone else bought the SS brake piston, whats your opinion on it? Looks like a good idea...

Anyone else watching the cowboys lose?

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
hey guys, know its been a while since i've been on here. College is in full swing and with all the studying i've been doing i haven't had a chance to do anything with the bike.

Just got a whole bunch of new parts in though, SS Brake lines with SS fittings, banjo folt and a new brake switch indicator so i don't need the middle switch. also got a new brake piston, it's not the SS one but its not steel chrome plated either (not sure what it is but it's the 40 dollar one on ebay)

[attachment=0:rs67plc4]IMG_0609.JPG[/attachment:rs67plc4]

Anyway hope to do a little work this weekend and see what happens.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
got the new brake lines installed and both brake lights are now working. The stainless lines are real nice, but my universal master cylinder feels spongy. Maybe it's just the way it is. Began to work on the headlight wires but then i saw the unthinkable. There were two white wires coming out of the harness. To make it worse after hooking it up both ways neither worked. It'll have to wait until next week to get fixed but boy am I mad. Anyone know what the 5 or so wires coming out of the harness do?

I also read that that you can join two wires together to have the charging system charging permanently, anyone remember anything about this?

Ordered that oil filter spanner so that'll be here to start on next weekend for a oil change and hopefully working headlights.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok guys, found out what to do about getting the alternator fully charging the battery regardless of the headlights,

66Sprint said:
Disconnect the White from the alt. to the main loom (it just goes up to the headlight switch) and directly connect it to the yellow wire running from the alternator to the rectifier and regulator......This enables the third pair of coils in the alternator to "contribute" constantly.....
Now if only it was the weekend...

EDIT: oh, i also ordered the oil spanner with two ends, 20 and 24mm and a clutch puller. the oil filter remover on z1 enterprises was 42 bucks on their website and 10 on ebay. Not sure why there was such a big jump in price, i don't mind ordering from them but a 30 dollar price difference speaks for itself.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
just finished the electronics, all lights and blinkers are working. Took her outside and started her up, took a bit but eventually she fired up like a charm.

here she is with working head and taillights
[attachment=0:5vmqi5y6]IMG_0632.JPG[/attachment:5vmqi5y6]

I also joined the yellow and white wires coming out of the main harness hopefully enabling the third charging thingy so it's generating electricity even when the lights aren't on.

What's left:
Air filter cover - I can't believe i forgot these, probably the only shortfall of having a CL.
Tuning - The bike idols a little less then fine normal, when it is choked, it takes throttle to keep it running. Normal or not?
Insurance - What is it for a 20 year old?
Registration and Plates - The moment of truth

Edit: oh, i'm planning on cleaning the oil filter as well as changing the oil. What is the recommended way of doing this? Running the bike then clean filter then change oil, clean filter without running then change oil or change oil first and then clean the filter?

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
drained the oil, the oil bolt was almost impossible to remove so i ended up getting a 5 ft long pipe and leverging it off. The right case was a breeze and cleaning the oil filter went pretty smooth. Have the lock washer on order as well as the SS Engine bolt kit on ebay and a new gasket kit as i broke the old gasket hammering off the case.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Here are some pics of the right case taken apart and cleaned (kerosene and a rag)

[attachment=2:2mld2j6p]IMG_0706.JPG[/attachment:2mld2j6p]

Here's the engine
[attachment=1:2mld2j6p]IMG_0708.JPG[/attachment:2mld2j6p]

My best friend for the day
[attachment=0:2mld2j6p]IMG_0709.JPG[/attachment:2mld2j6p]


Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The SS Bolts came in as well as the gaskets and other misc bolts. Tomorrow i'll reinstall the cleaned oil pump, close up the case and fill her with some dinosaur oil. Debating whether to do the left case but i figured what difference does it make if i do it now vs a year later when i plan on rebuilding.

Oh, i was thinking about moving the tach and speedo around, anyone know any good material i can use to build a new bracket. Also the lights in the back of them all are kaput, anyone know a good replacement or something i can build, i would like to see how fast i'm going when riding at night and if the bike is in neutral or not.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
big problem guys,

So between the last time i started the bike and now i cleaned the oil filter and change the oil to castrol GTX. But now the bike won't start and when i use some of that starting fluid it revs up but doesn't idle. Any ideas?

Tom
 
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