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Only the first 2 or 3 years of CL350 used the style of forks you have, the later models used the pinch-type top bridge (upper triple). Go to cmsnl.com or Partzilla.com and look up the different years of 350s and compare part numbers, then search for used ones. Or, you could consider changing the entire front end to a later set but there might be other changes along the way that you'd have to adjust to, like gauge mounts and headlight ears.
 

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You'll need to change the steering stem and top bridge first since your current setup is a tapered seat rather than the open slide thru type.
I'll suggest the CB/CL 350K4/5 version which retains the same wheel spacing for simplicity. Springs are internal to the forks on those models also.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Only the first 2 or 3 years of CL350 used the style of forks you have, the later models used the pinch-type top bridge (upper triple). Go to cmsnl.com or Partzilla.com and look up the different years of 350s and compare part numbers, then search for used ones. Or, you could consider changing the entire front end to a later set but there might be other changes along the way that you'd have to adjust to, like gauge mounts and headlight ears.
thinking about doing a full front end swap. if the only thing I need to worry about Is gauges and headlight then im not too worried. thanks for the input!
 

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Discussion Starter #44
You'll need to change the steering stem and top bridge first since your current setup is a tapered seat rather than the open slide thru type.
I'll suggest the CB/CL 350K4/5 version which retains the same wheel spacing for simplicity. Springs are internal to the forks on those models also.
great, ill see what I can find.
forgot to ask someone earlier but my dipstick is stuck in the right cover - the PO had broken off half of the little lip to remove it. I've tried soaking in PB blaster and cant get it to budge, any advice?
 

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Only the first 2 or 3 years of CL350 used the style of forks you have, the later models used the pinch-type top bridge (upper triple). Go to cmsnl.com or Partzilla.com and look up the different years of 350s and compare part numbers, then search for used ones. Or, you could consider changing the entire front end to a later set but there might be other changes along the way that you'd have to adjust to, like gauge mounts and headlight ears.
I think the same years 450 has the same front end
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Welp. Finally have all the replacement parts to reassemble the bottom end. Have it cleaned thoroughly and was about to put the cases back together when I noticed (right before I applied Hondabond) that the kick starter pinion is all chewed up. I don't know how I missed this. Wish I would've seen it earlier but glad I caught it at all.

Any chance someone has one laying around that they'd be willing to sell me?
I'll probably hop on ebay and order one tonight if not.
 

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Thanks for the referral longdistancerider.

Edit: OP has the early model kick setup. I don't have any available at this time... only the later model.
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Edit: OP has the early model kick setup. I don't have any available at this time... only the later model.
Anyone know if i would be able to just drop this in and “upgrade” my kick?

also - I have a buddy with a 70’ SL350 front end. If I did that swap would it add some height in the front?
 

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OP, that should swap in, but I am not s fan of the wear on these teeth. I did send you a link to a NOS 68 pinion on eBay for like $15. I have an SL and can measure the front end against a CL and let you know the difference

Edit: I have a number of these later model kick assemblies I can sell you. Also have a new circlip, too, for reassembly

@Knoxes, I don't believe it will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Welp. Tried removing the secondary jet and broke one of the tabs off. Save me the beating - I've already been pretty hard on myself.
I have a carb rebuild kit from 4into1 that has this exact part in it but they must have manufactured it poorly because it doesn't fit. Despite being supposedly made for this bike.
Do I NEED to source a new one or can I get away with this for a little while? Obviously its not ideal but as long as it doesn't cause damage to anything I'm fine with it. Thoughts?
Carbs are 3D by the way.

305725
 

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Did you try soaking multiple rounds in carb cleaner?
I don't usually remove these tubes.

Sorry, I forgot to measure the forks. Will do that first thing in the AM
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Did you try soaking multiple rounds in carb cleaner?
I don't usually remove these tubes.

Sorry, I forgot to measure the forks. Will do that first thing in the AM
Yeah both carbs have taken multiple carb cleaner baths. The photo makes it look a lot worse than it is. I only took this out of one carb so I'll be sure to leave the other one in.
You think its safe to run like this?
 

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I am a fan of making sure the jets and idle passage are clear and running seafoam or berrymans for a couple tanks. Something longdistancerider mentioned a while back, I think.

Edit: that's your primary tube, right? I would probably make sure it's clean and shove it back in. And don't block that little hole between the primary and idle drilling
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I am a fan of making sure the jets and idle passage are clear and running seafoam or berrymans for a couple tanks. Something longdistancerider mentioned a while back, I think.

Edit: that's your primary tube, right? I would probably make sure it's clean and shove it back in. And don't block that little hole between the primary and idle drilling
Noted. Secondary.
 
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