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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought this bike. It was running ok, but not great and so I replaced the coil, polugs, and float. After these changes it ran like a champ. Then after riding about an hour it started sputtering and died on the side of the road. The engine was fairly hot, and I let it cool off enough to get it started and ride the block back home. Now after a couplke of days not being able to mess with it I tried to crank it today and it would not start.

I am planning to check the timing, clean the carb, setting the spark advance, and a few other things to make sure everything is to spec. My biggest question is what else should I check? I tried setting the idle per the manual and when I had the idle screw at the 1 1/4 turns out it ran at about 8000 rpms before I killed it with the key. That can't be normal due to the manual saying to start there. It seems like there may be an issue with the fuel mix?

Any help would be great.
 

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Two screws to adjust, you set the idle screw mixture 1 1/4 turns out , you set the idle speed screw most of the way OUT , then screw it in until the engine will idle at the desired speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mike - I am going to try that this afternoon, after I make sure that everything else is set correctly.

Is there any other reason than running lean that would cause the bike to overheat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I cleaned the carb, set the float, set the ignition timing. Now it is leaking gas out 9f the bottom of the carb and still won't even sputter like it's trying to start. I am ready to send this thing to the junk yard. What am I not doing right? I have spark, I have fuel, I have air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Slightly black and wet. The spark is not exactly what I thought it should be, but I don't know what a good spark should look like. I replaced the coil, but who knows if it could be bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry for the late reply. I had a rough weekend.

The float height is right at 3/4" when held so that the float tab just touches the pin. I think I am doing it right by holding it at an angle and slowly turning it until it touches the float pin.

Also: I have a new set of gaskets for the float bowl coming today or tomorrow. I think that is the leak. The gasket was in bad shape and I did not notice it until I took it off this last time.
 

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Slightly black and wet. The spark is not exactly what I thought it should be, but I don't know what a good spark should look like. I replaced the coil, but who knows if it could be bad.
Replaced the coil with what? If I remember correctly, the CA160 is a 6 volt system, A CB/CL160 coil will be a 12 volt piece and will produce a weaker spark on 6 volts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Omg... The specs on the coil I got are as follows:

Mounting Hole Spacing: 102mm (4") (measured center to center)
Overall Length of Mounts: 116mm (4.5") (measured end to end)
Coil Dimensions: 79mm long x 46.7mm wide (3.1" x 1.8")
High Tension Wire Length: 20" (spark plug wire)
Low Tension Wire Length: 8" (male bullet terminals)
Primary Resistance: 4.0 ohms +/-10%
Secondary Resistance: 14.1k ohms +/-10%
Replaces Honda part numbers: 30500-216-405, 30500-21 6-000, 30400-306-673, 30400-306-
672, 30700-MG7-000, 30700-KE2-942
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, so I will need to order a replacement for that. The weird thing is it ran for over an hour of riding before it started dying. I guess that is just having brand new plugs and being lucky?

Is there an aftermarket coil that might be a bit hotter than the stock one? Is there a good place to buy a replacement that is not going to be crap in the long run?
 

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Are you sure the old coil is bad? Arrange the plug wire leads so the ends are almost touching, then touch the small wires to your battery, see sparks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am almost certain the old coil is toast. The resistance was WAY out of spec. I dont remember the exact value though. I just remember thinking if this was any other part I would never use it that far out of spec. I will test it this afternoon and see if it fire though. If so I will try swapping it out. If not I have found a few online that are the right resistaance and voltage, but need a new bracket to mount it on the CA160. Nothing that I can't fabricate. I think I even have some brass that I can make a new mount from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I could not get the old coil to spark. I tried several times and nothing. The resistance across the plugs was 0 indicating a internal short. I have a new 6 volt coil on order. Scheduled for delivery Friday. So fingers crossed. I am going to be installing the new gaskets tonight so I will know if that solves the leak.

Quick question, if I used a 6 volt step up converter in line with the coil I have now, would that be safe? I.E. I have a 6 volt to 12 converter that I will be using on the headlight upgrade. I don't see why it would not work to simply wire it in line with the coil to step up the voltage from 6 to 12 volts right before the coil. Or am I totally wrong on that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So you can just swap in a new battery and 12 volt DC lights and go? This article is for a non-honda, but I am assuming that the system would work in the same way? That would be killer to have a full 12 volt system and be able to add a good LED headlight.
 

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Wouldn't cost much to find out, connect a 12 volt battery and run it see how much it charges, just be sure to unplug those 6 volt bulbs first.
 
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