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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm restoring a 1968 CL350. I am trying to lower the front end forks without replacing the whole front end. The top triple tree is the kind that doesn't have the clamp, but i was trying find one that will fit with a clamp but had no luck (unless replace all of it)....

So, i had this idea where i could buy another bottom tree, remove it from the steering stem (using a machine press) and replace the top tree with it. So basically i would have two bottom trees for the top and bottom so both trees have clamps. I could then feed the forks through and raise and lower the height accordingly. I would also have a clip on handlebars which act as support so the trees don't slide down when riding......

Would this work?
 

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Not a good idea...(although it COULD work)...

You would be better off not lowering the front end at all, but if you MUST, there are better alternatives......

WHY do you want it lowered? .....Function or looks?
 

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Why not buy a 360 triple tree which is adjustable on both ends then slide the forks up 15mm at a time until you get it where you want? That would be cheaper I'd bet.
360 trees are wider and would require wheel spacing and a longer axle, plus the bridge is becoming extinct.....They crack easily if incorrectly tightened.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes i've heard of using the 360 top tree... but wouldn't i have to replace the forks?? The 360 fork tubes get smaller at the top or something is different with them....

Could i even use a 360 top tree with a cl350 bottom tree (and stem)??????

THank you all!!!
 

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No, can't mix those parts in this instance...Later CL350 trees will work, and are already "pinch-type" bridges....But require the longer axle and spacers...
360 forks are 33mm, same as 350 forks.....Both the bracket (lower triple) and the bridge (top tree) have to have the same center spacing, and the early, shouldered-fork, 350 brackets are a bit narrower (2mm I believe, IIRC).......

AGAIN, WHY do you want it lowered...Function or Form?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Form baby! I am aware this doesn't help performance... but with a 1968, i don't see myself pushing the limits.... The bike is old, has issues already... its funky and im trying embellish the funkyness.
 

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The top of the original fork tubes will look pretty funky in a newer pinch-type upper tree. They are made to fit into the recess on the original tree, so you'll end up with a smaller diameter nub sticking up with the larger cap nut on top.
 

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WHY?
The steering stem is tapered and the top and bottom are offset, so it wont work without serious work and will still affect the rake and trail
you'd be better off just getting a triple tree from another bike with 33 mm stanchions and swapping the stems (this will still effect the steering but at least all the parts are doing what they're designed to
Apparently, Dmoto didn't like the responses in this thread, but duplicating threads is useless, so I combined them and added in Simon's response here.....
I deleted the other topic with the same question......66
 

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Form baby! I am aware this doesn't help performance... but with a 1968, i don't see myself pushing the limits.... The bike is old, has issues already... its funky and im trying embellish the funkyness.
It makes the bike less safe, diminishing performance. Maybe your friends think it looks better, but anyone with an understanding of function, won't think you know what you are doing or how to ride a motorcycle. It's like those Japanese cars with the wheel camber at an extreme angle, or the kids that cut their coil springs to lower the Civic and have it ride around on the bump stops. Looks good parked, but dangerous to drive.

You wouldn't be the first or the last to do it. Some people removed front brakes for form, giving up 80-90% of their braking capability.

As being an "old" bike, it can still move at pretty fast speeds, and they are raced, and they go fast. However, lowered, you lose a lot of good stuff, and end up with an old bike that isn't a good as it could be.
 
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