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Discussion Starter #141
Mike,
I never thought much about the side stand on the Honda 160's, (little brother syndrome; you never think much about them either). Could you modify or adapt the side stand arrangement for a Trail 90; they both bolt to the bottom of the engine (?). I really don't remember an accessory side stand for that machine when they were new.
I haven't done too much looking around for side stand options yet. My plan was to try and find a handful of side stands at Mid-Ohio this summer and see if I could adapt any of them to work but with that event postponed I may just put that project on the back burner for now. I still need to get the tank painted so that will be priority for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
The tank is finally done! I know it's been a while since I last updated this thread but my painting schedule is 100% dependent on the weather and with the heat we've had it has been a challenge. After filling the minor dents with Bondo and re-priming and sanding it took me 3 attempts to get the top coat to a point that I felt I'd be able to buff and polish it the rest of way.

I made a lot of mistakes but I've learned a ton during this process and I'm actually looking forward to the next project that requires paint.

For anyone interested here's a list of the gun/materials I used:

  • Devilbiss Finishline 4 FLG-670 (1.5 tip for priming, 1.3 tip for top coat)
  • Eastwood Epoxy Primer (Grey)
  • Eastwood Single Stage Urethane (Boulevard Black)
  • 3M Wetordry sandpaper (800 to flatten between re-coats, 2000 grit to remove orange peel before rubbing compound)
  • Mother's Rubbing Compound
  • Mother's Finishing Polish
  • Mother's Synthetic Wax




There were a surprising number of "low spots" in the tank surface that weren't visible until this step. I'm glad I did it because they would have been very noticeable one the tank was painted black.



Below is a pic of all the solvent pop I got during my second attempt. The temperate in the tent was rising faster than I could put coats one. I should have cut my losses after the first coat but in my inpatients and inexperience I laid a total of 3 coats. By the 3rd coat it was 104 Deg. F. in the tent.



Below is the tank after the 3rd attempt. There were still a handful of solvent pop marks, maybe 10-15 on the whole tank. I'm going to attribute those to me laying the coat on too thick. Temp was in the low seventies that morning. I started at 5:30 am to beat the sun.



I sanded the orange peel flat with 2000 grit and some soapy water.



Here's a pic after the rubbing compound step. I did this by hand since the tank is small but I think I'm going to invest in a mini buffer for next time.



I also painted the engine cover with Honda's Cloud Silver. It's darker than the OEM panel cover but it is nearly a perfect match to the raw aluminum of the crank case.

 

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Hi Mike,
The tank looks great! They never looked like that when they were new.
"Solvent pop" : Is that the same as "cratering or fish eyes" that is caused by silicone contamination.that continues to show up in each layer of paint?
Silicone particles can come from many different and unsuspected sources (synthetic wax dust). But it doesn't matter with the tank project, you have got it done with excellent results.

Good to see your update, I thought maybe you got extra busy with your real job!!

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #144
Hi Mike,
The tank looks great! They never looked like that when they were new.
"Solvent pop" : Is that the same as "cratering or fish eyes" that is caused by silicone contamination.that continues to show up in each layer of paint?
Silicone particles can come from many different and unsuspected sources (synthetic wax dust). But it doesn't matter with the tank project, you have got it done with excellent results.
Thanks. From what I've read "solvent pop" is not the same as cratering/fish eye. It's caused specifically by the solvents in the paint being unable to escape quick enough before the outer layer of paint starts to setup. When they ultimately do reach the surface they "pop" and leave tiny pin-prick size holes. In my case I suspect the causes were a combination of too high ambient temperature causing the paint to setup too quickly and me applying the coats too thick. I'm just thankful I was able to ultimately minimize the issue and then buff/polish it out.

Good to see your update, I thought maybe you got extra busy with your real job!!
I wish. More like really busy trying to find a new real job.
 

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Mike,
Never had that happen with paint (but have had something similiar happen with polyurethane varnish on woodwork). That must be why they recommend different solvents for different temperatures. Seems like most of my painting occures ouside when the leaves are off the trees (less dust and insects and other debris in the air at those times of the year)
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Mike,
Never had that happen with paint (but have had something similiar happen with polyurethane varnish on woodwork). That must be why they recommend different solvents for different temperatures. Seems like most of my painting occures ouside when the leaves are off the trees (less dust and insects and other debris in the air at those times of the year)
Mark
Yes, I was way outside of the temperature range (70-80 deg. F.) of the catalyst that I had. My impatience got the best of me.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
I rode the Super Hawk today for the first time... And it was awesome! I only took it around the block (about a mile) because I don't have a plate for it yet and this is the first time it has left the driveway since I brought it home years ago.

The exhaust is a little louder than the stock exhaust on the 450's and 350's that I'm used to but it's not too bad. With the riding I do (30-45 mph) it will be fine.

I do have a couple of questions/observations that I'd like to confirm with you folks as normal or cause for concern.

1) Neutral is a bit tough to find. Everything is adjusted to spec as per the shop manual, is this normal for this transmission?

2) On deceleration there is an audible "whirring" of the transmission gears. Not clanking or chattering in any way, just "whirring" is the best way to describe it. Kind of like a big old truck transmission. Is that normal?

3) The gearing seems to be "taller" (maybe the wrong term) than the 350. I know these are totally different engines so kind of apples/oranges but that is my closest point of comparison. I seem to need to get the revs up higher for this bike to continue pulling smoothly when up shifting.

It might be worth noting that there is not a single stretch of flat road in my neighborhood so I'm constantly either going up hill or downhill.

All things considered I'm going call this a successful first test ride. Once you get over 4-5K RPMs this little engine really comes alive.
 

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They do whir a bit, three chains in there thrashing around when it's running, spring loaded tensioner on the primary chain that goes loose on compression, no tensioner on the oil filter chain. Straight cut trans gears to boot. Just the sound of good honest machinery at work.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
They do whir a bit, three chains in there thrashing around when it's running, spring loaded tensioner on the primary chain that goes loose on compression, no tensioner on the oil filter chain. Straight cut trans gears to boot. Just the sound of good honest machinery at work.
Thanks, Mike. That gives me some peace of mind that this thing (probably) isn't chewing itself up due to some mistake on my end. A one mile ride certainly isn't enough to draw any real conclusions but having zero experience with the 305 engines I was a little worried. I'm going to head over to AAA on Monday and get this thing plated. Also ordered some mirrors. Not sure how I neglected to get them sooner but I didn't like not being able to see behind me. Especially with no turn signals!
 
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