[Gyrhead]

Guys:

This is our 1966 CL160 project. We started with a 7,800 mile bike that hadn't run since 1972, and had been extensively hacked by a series of previous owners - including multiple rattle can paintjobs in a bewildering selection of colors...

Before disassembly, we got the bike running, and discovered good compression and a basically solid condition. Then, it all came apart, frame was powdercoated, and all components detailed, buffed, polished and cleaned. It's incredible how much good can come from a simple soap and water scrubbing!!

Anyway, we are now back to reassembly. Motor is in, harness strung, steering stem installed. Found a very nice used seat on eBay for a whopping $30, and I removed and washed the cover and replaced the foam.

Tin work is at a friend's body shop, being painted a late model Volkswagen silver - which is far brighter and more lively than the factory Honda silver (gray). Hope you guys enjoy the pictures, will post more later if you all don't mind.

Tom

 

[Gyrhead]

so, what is the trick to getting the fork legs installed in the tree and top bridge. Keep binding in the tree and not lining up with the bridge. What a pain!!

Any ideas or tricks?

 

[MNellis]

so, what is the trick to getting the fork legs installed in the tree and top bridge. Keep binding in the tree and not lining up with the bridge. What a pain!!

Any ideas or tricks?

Was the bike crashed in the past? They should slide right in. If they don't check the stem to see that it's not tweaked. The easiest way to check for 'obvious' problems it to hold it up and sight the stem to a lamp pole across the street or something else vertically straight. While doing this check the lower triple and you will quickly see if the lower triple is twisted or not.

Another way is to put a level across the lower triple and, while holding it level sight the vertical stem at that same light pole. If you are holding it level and it does line up with the pole, you've got a problem.

 

[66Sprint]

Assuming you are installing the legs one at a time, I find that a dab of grease on the rubber fork cover cushions, and a small wedge to open the bottom trees' clamp helps... Also, IF you painted/powdercoated the inside of the pinch loops, you'll have to take them back down to bare metal.......That little extra thickness makes it nearly impossible to install the tubes.....................................

 

[Gyrhead]

Thanks guys, turned out that one of the fork pipes had a bend of about 1/16", which was just enough to cause it to bind in the tree. Built a jig for the hydraulic press, and was able to straighten out the pipe. Installed just fine this time. I found that a night in the freezer also helped the pipe to slip through the triple tree loop more easily....

Appreciate the great ideas - very glad that I joined this forum.

will post some more pics tomorrow. It is really beginning to resemble a motorcycle again.

Tom

 

[jayel]

The easiest way to check for 'obvious' problems it to hold it up and sight the stem to a lamp pole across the street or something else vertically straight. While doing this check the lower triple and you will quickly see if the lower triple is twisted or not.

Another way is to put a level across the lower triple and, while holding it level sight the vertical stem at that same light pole. If you are holding it level and it does line up with the pole, you've got a problem.

your telephone/power pole guys must be better than what we get around here :lol: some of these poles are lucky they're not in sideways

 

[MNellis]

The easiest way to check for 'obvious' problems it to hold it up and sight the stem to a lamp pole across the street or something else vertically straight. While doing this check the lower triple and you will quickly see if the lower triple is twisted or not.

Another way is to put a level across the lower triple and, while holding it level sight the vertical stem at that same light pole. If you are holding it level and it does line up with the pole, you've got a problem.

your telephone/power pole guys must be better than what we get around here :lol: some of these poles are lucky they're not in sideways

a

Ours are aluminum (street lights) so they're pretty straight.

 

[Gyrhead]

New pics - forks are completed, side covers reinstalled, swingarm, shocks installed.

Can't wait for the tin work to be done!

Hope you guys like the pictures..

 

[Gyrhead]

Project Update Pictures

It's been a good while since I've last posted. Unfortunately work has me traveling a lot, so little time for working on the Scramblers. This weekend we did make a good bit of progress - and I'd like to share some pictures. If I can find a few more afternoons of free time, it should be road ready before the permanent snows.

I know it's just a wimpy little CL160, but I like it a lot just the same. It's a nicely built bike, and a real blast to ride. And the styling of these vintage Scramblers is timeless in my eyes.

Hope you like these progress pictures!

Tom

 

[Bird76Mojo]

That's shaping up to be one sweet scoot!!

GB :mrgreen:

 

[66Sprint]

Yes indeed!... Looking GOOD!....

Hopefully, more members will see what we like about these lightweight twins.....
... Steve

 

[Gyrhead]

The bike is now on it's own two wheels, and is complete aside from a few minor odds and ends (install speedo, rear brake pedal, headlamp hi/lo switch, shifter, kickstarter and buddy pegs)

Next weekend I will fire it up and (weather permitting) take it for a maiden shakedown ride.

Here are a few photos to add to the project log, hope that you enjoy them.

 

[tbpmusic]

Beautiful !!

 

[HerrDeacon]

Wow, beautiful job. Really nice work!!! Real head-turner.

Is that skid plate stock on those bikes? Pretty cool.

 

[Gyrhead]

Wow, beautiful job. Really nice work!!! Real head-turner.

Is that skid plate stock on those bikes? Pretty cool.

Appreciate the nice comments guys. Yes, the skidplate is original equipment, both our 66 CL160 and 69 CL175 have them. I guess they are pretty hard to find in good condition, the rear mounting tabs are easily broken if the bike bottoms out, and I guess a lot of broken skid plates got tossed out.

Take care,

Tom

 

[NE350]

Beautiful bike!! Do you have any before photo's? I just went for my last ride Saturday about 150 mile through central MA. It's always a sad day when I put them in the shed for the winter.

Matt

 

[Gyrhead]

Getting closer!!

The bike is 99% complete - gassed, oiled, adjusted, torqued and ready to fire. Checked the electrics, and the lights, horn, brake light and instrument lights work great.

However, I needed a new rectifier (I damaged my original when unbolting it) and ordered one from Oregon Motorcycle Parts. Also got a new headlamp bulb to replace my cloudy-lensed original.

Once these two items arrive, the bike will be road-ready. I can't wait!

More pictures to come, but not tonight.

Once the CL160 is done, it'll be time to begin either the 1969 CL175 resto or the 1967 CL77 resto-mod. The CL77 is a real junker, and probably beyond hope of a cost effective concours restoration. I think we're going to customize that one a bit.

 

[Gyrhead]

Oregon Rectifier Wiring

Caution: I am nearly functionally illiterate with respect to electrical systems. Ergo, this may be a truly stupid question. Yes, I did a search of earlier posts. Here goes. :?

Just got my new Oregon rectifier to replace the original orange rectifier, which got broken during disassembly.

How does this thing connect? The red wire I understand, but how about the two yellow leads? Does it matter which of the yellow rectifier terminals I connect them to?

 

[MilestoGo]

Yes it does matter. Do you have the schematic for the bike and did you get an install sheet from your rectifier source? If you didn't get one I can look to find mine if you need me to.

Tom

 

[MilestoGo]

And furthermore, DON'T EVER ATTEMPT TO JUMP START (say from a car) these Honda's without a battery in place on the motorcycle. Attempting to jump start them without will fry the rectifier - Again, don't ask me how I know this.