[suejenn]

There does not seem to be a "gasket" between the upper and lower case, from what I'm seeing. The little "ledge" must be to redirect oil flow for some reason. For the moment, I'm still trying to use penetrating oil and gentle persuasion to free the shift drum. I was able to use the two screws, that hold the drum retainer in place, to move it very slightly (less than a 1/16") back and forth. I'm not holding my breath though. Tom

 

[mike in idaho]

The "ledge" isn't anything, the two case halves just happen to be a slightly different width where they touch in that spot.

 

[suejenn]

How to remove stator from 1965 Honda 305 dream? I have the bike is stripped down to remove the engine. After removing the rt case cover I realize the stator has to come out. I have no clue how to do that job and could use some suggestions. I've included a pic. Thanks in advance. Tom

 

[mike in idaho]

Unscrew those three 6mm bolts, unplug the wire connectors and slide it off. The rotor can stay on the end of the crank, unless you want to replace the crankshaft seal.

 

[DD23]

Anything else you need to remove, like the starter motor ?

Any fixing or mechanism that spans or crosses the horizontal c/cases joint will also need to be removed so the lower casing can be lifted off.

Have you located the dowels involved using CMSNL.com etc...

 

[suejenn]

Anything else you need to remove, like the starter motor ?

Any fixing or mechanism that spans or crosses the horizontal c/cases joint will also need to be removed so the lower casing can be lifted off.

Have you located the dowels involved using CMSNL.com etc...

I appreciate you suggestions. I've never done anything like this before but it's "sorta" fun learning how.

On the left side (inside the case), the bearing with the gear on it (now removed), has rust on the outer part and I'm thinking I may need to replace it, but I'm not sure yet. I figured having the whole stator out of the way might make it easier, in the event I need to replace that side bearing also.

It does look like the starter and some related parts will need to come off as well. Once I get the stator off, I'm sure I'll have more questions. Thanks for your help, Tom

 

[DD23]

Check CMSNL.com exploded views...

 

[Montanabill]

If you have corrosion and pits on transmission bearings beware the other bearings in the engine, If some are rusted and pitted the others including the lower end crank bearings can have pits. I have had several bikes I got going and running fine only make it 60 miles/100KM then blow a crank or other major bearing. Even a tiny pit on the ball bearing surface will hurt the rest of the bearing leading to destruction. Plus it's hard to tell when the bearings aren't loose and it's hard to see the crank big end bearings.

 

[suejenn]

If you have corrosion and pits on transmission bearings beware the other bearings in the engine, If some are rusted and pitted the others including the lower end crank bearings can have pits. I have had several bikes I got going and running fine only make it 60 miles/100KM then blow a crank or other major bearing. Even a tiny pit on the ball bearing surface will hurt the rest of the bearing leading to destruction. Plus it's hard to tell when the bearings aren't loose and it's hard to see the crank big end bearings.

Thanks for your input. I was thinking the same thing. I have a good source for bearings locally and figured that while I have it torn down I'd go ahead and replace all of them. I'm not in a big hurry so, if my source can't get them, I'll order them on line. I've never replace the bearings on a bike. I'm friends with the local Honda mechanic and he's let me borrow tools from time to time. Do you have any suggestions for replacing bearings on the 305? thanks, Tom

 

[mike in idaho]

You can't buy them locally, they have grooves and holes machined in the OD for the locating rings and dowels.

 

[suejenn]

You can't buy them locally, they have grooves and holes machined in the OD for the locating rings and dowels.

10-4

 

[suejenn]

Once I get the engine on the workbench, do the two bolts at the base of the heads come out? Anything I should be especially cautious about?

 

[DD23]

Check CMSNL, b fautiousr about everything else I have this engine

May I ask are you going to take the head off ?

If you are you may as well slacken nuts etc. With engine in frame.

Check CMSNL about the two upper c/case fasteners...do the views tally with your bike ?

 

[DD23]

Be cautious about everything with this engine ...

 

[suejenn]

Check CMSNL, b fautiousr about everything else I have this engine

May I ask are you going to take the head off ?

If you are you may as well slacken nuts etc. With engine in frame.

Check CMSNL about the two upper c/case fasteners...do the views tally with your bike ?

At the moment, I'm not planning on doing anything to the top end. It was running fine. Thanks for the tips. Tom

 

[suejenn]

Hello, if you plan to remove engine and service transmission, you will need to remove all components from both sides. If those parts (clutch, shift spindle, primary, rotor, stator, starter,) are removed first before engine removal it's easier with a lighter engine removal and install.
If your plan is to service trans. you should consider replacement of ALL the 50-year-old gaskets and oil seals, and removal of top end is best done before trans service disassembly.
Complete gasket sets and oil seal kits are available. Try "4into1" for parts.
Photos have CL77, 305 Scrambler, only difference is lack of a starter motor. Good Luck, HondaJohn

I want to thank you again for posting the pics. I have the motor out now and will open it up Monday. Thanks again, Tom

 

[suejenn]

Hello, if you plan to remove engine and service transmission, you will need to remove all components from both sides. If those parts (clutch, shift spindle, primary, rotor, stator, starter,) are removed first before engine removal it's easier with a lighter engine removal and install.
If your plan is to service trans. you should consider replacement of ALL the 50-year-old gaskets and oil seals, and removal of top end is best done before trans service disassembly.
Complete gasket sets and oil seal kits are available. Try "4into1" for parts.
Photos have CL77, 305 Scrambler, only difference is lack of a starter motor. Good Luck, HondaJohn

Hi John, I got the engine out of the bike and it's on the bench. It occurred to me that the bolts will need to be torqued when I put them back into the motor. Do you have any idea of a source of, or know the torque numbers on the bolts involved? Any ideas will help, Thanks again. Tom

 

[Honda John]

Hi John, I got the engine out of the bike and it's on the bench. It occurred to me that the bolts will need to be torqued when I put them back into the motor. Do you have any idea of a source of, or know the torque numbers on the bolts involved? Any ideas will help, Thanks again. Tom

Hello, the torque numbers most commonly used for 6mm fasteners needs an inch/pound
(in./lb.), torque wrench to apply 72 to 86 in/lbs on 6mm bolts/studs, like carb mounts, exhaust studs, etc. Also needed is a 5 to 75 foot-pound (ft./lb.) torque wrench for 8mm head studs 15 ft.lbs. or 180 in/lbs., and 10mm, 12mm, I don't recall any fasteners on a 305 that need more than 75 ft./lbs. I don't have a chart to send any better than these at this time.
A standard metric fastener torque chart can likely be found on-line.
Most genuine Honda service manuals have a section for fastener torque specs. that can apply to all metric fasteners, and all bikes. HondaJohn

 

[suejenn]

Hello, the torque numbers most commonly used for 6mm fasteners needs an inch/pound
(in./lb.), torque wrench to apply 72 to 86 in/lbs on 6mm bolts/studs, like carb mounts, exhaust studs, etc. Also needed is a 5 to 75 foot-pound (ft./lb.) torque wrench for 8mm head studs 15 ft.lbs. or 180 in/lbs., and 10mm, 12mm, I don't recall any fasteners on a 305 that need more than 75 ft./lbs. I don't have a chart to send any better than these at this time.
A standard metric fastener torque chart can likely be found on-line.
Most genuine Honda service manuals have a section for fastener torque specs. that can apply to all metric fasteners, and all bikes. HondaJohn

GREAT. Thanks for much. I do appreciate your taking the time to help out. Hope you have a wonderful day. Tom

 

[suejenn]

GREAT. Thanks for much. I do appreciate your taking the time to help out. Hope you have a wonderful day. Tom

Hello, the torque numbers most commonly used for 6mm fasteners needs an inch/pound
(in./lb.), torque wrench to apply 72 to 86 in/lbs on 6mm bolts/studs, like carb mounts, exhaust studs, etc. Also needed is a 5 to 75 foot-pound (ft./lb.) torque wrench for 8mm head studs 15 ft.lbs. or 180 in/lbs., and 10mm, 12mm, I don't recall any fasteners on a 305 that need more than 75 ft./lbs. I don't have a chart to send any better than these at this time.
A standard metric fastener torque chart can likely be found on-line.
Most genuine Honda service manuals have a section for fastener torque specs. that can apply to all metric fasteners, and all bikes. HondaJohn

I want to thank you again for all the help. I have the old shift drum out and am now cleaning everything up for installing. I had to cut the old drum out because the shift forks were rusted to it. They are now soaking in some rust remover gel. Hopefully I can save them. The replacement drums are readily available but the shift forks seem to be harder to find and fairly expensive. I may have more questions later, thanks again. Tom