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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. Is it possible to remove the needle jet? (that brass tube in the center of this picture) from a 14H carburetor? What are the correct tools to use if it is possible? I watched a CMC video on 350 carburetors and thought that I'd be able to use a chopstick and tap it out of my 14H but no, the needle jet holder is screwed in not set in so I ended up with broken bits of wood stuffed in the needle jet. :eek: 14H.jpg Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Yes, its pressed in. If I remember correctly take a small punch and tap lightly from the bottom. Should come out easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you, Finnigan. That worked! I ordered a pack of various sized solid brass rods off the net and found one, 4mm, that did the job. I sprayed both sides of the needle jet with PB Blaster and then lightly tapped the punch through from the bottom with a rubber mallet. I had ordered another one but it was a different size so I just cleaned the original up and reinserted it. Thanks again.
 

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Glad you got sorted.

I have just been through the same process. I used a plastic chopstick to get the jet shifted and then changed to a wooden one, which was slightly thinner, to drift it out.

Like you, I cleaned it up and put it back.

Sean
 

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Don't mean to highjack the post, but it seems a sensible place to post my questions which relate directly to the same carbs. If I've erred, please let me know.

So today I "finished" rebuilding my carbs.

I watched the CMC videos on rebuilding CB 360/350 carbs and took a lead from here. There are a few differences between 450 and 350 carbs - e.g. the slow jet screws in on teh 450, but I was able to work this out - clever me!!:rolleyes:

However at the end of the process I have a couple of questions, I'd appreciate some thoughts on.

1. On removing the needle jet from the piston, a small (tiny) washer also fell out.This does not appear on the diagram in the Clymer manual I have. Is it necessary?

2. The float height according to Clymer is 20mm. According to CMC, for the 350, it is 23mm. Mine were set at 23 +/-. What is the correct setting?

3. The piston moves freely up and down the carb body, but when I put the top on (cylinder vacuum) it becomes a bit sticky. It will move up easily enough, but doesn't immediately drop back down. Is this OK, or do I need to do something to make it move more freely?

Thanks for your thoughts.
 

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Don't mean to highjack the post, but it seems a sensible place to post my questions which relate directly to the same carbs. If I've erred, please let me know.

So today I "finished" rebuilding my carbs.

I watched the CMC videos on rebuilding CB 360/350 carbs and took a lead from here. There are a few differences between 450 and 350 carbs - e.g. the slow jet screws in on teh 450, but I was able to work this out - clever me!!:rolleyes:

However at the end of the process I have a couple of questions, I'd appreciate some thoughts on.

1. On removing the needle jet from the piston, a small (tiny) washer also fell out.This does not appear on the diagram in the Clymer manual I have. Is it necessary?

2. The float height according to Clymer is 20mm. According to CMC, for the 350, it is 23mm. Mine were set at 23 +/-. What is the correct setting?

3. The piston moves freely up and down the carb body, but when I put the top on (cylinder vacuum) it becomes a bit sticky. It will move up easily enough, but doesn't immediately drop back down. Is this OK, or do I need to do something to make it move more freely?

Thanks for your thoughts.
#3- are you sure it's not just vacuum locked causing it to fall slowly, because that's what it should do.
 

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Thanks all,

Job done!

I did do a bit of polishing with 600 grit paper and have now done a bit more and it seems a bit smoother. I also thought it might be the vacuum, but with no previous experience, it was hard to decide.

There is a diagram of that tool, Rick, in the Clymer manual. I spent quite a while trying to work out what it was. :rolleyes: This morning I made a "tool" out of a cornflakes packet.

IMG_0806.jpg

Worked a treat!! :D

On now to the wheels and forks.

Sean
 

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I made mine from a sheet of thin stainless and a nibbling tool, so it will last. Not that it gets used much, but I tend to use it 'wet': hold up the float with the tool, open the petcock, and see if the valve seeps, or how much motion it takes to get it to flow a bit. A tiny seepage or motion is OK with me; significant flow or motion and it gets adjusted.
 
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