[1stcb450]

Hi. Is it possible to remove the needle jet? (that brass tube in the center of this picture) from a 14H carburetor? What are the correct tools to use if it is possible? I watched a CMC video on 350 carburetors and thought that I'd be able to use a chopstick and tap it out of my 14H but no, the needle jet holder is screwed in not set in so I ended up with broken bits of wood stuffed in the needle jet. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Finnigan]

Yes, its pressed in. If I remember correctly take a small punch and tap lightly from the bottom. Should come out easily.

 

[1stcb450]

Thank you, Finnigan. That worked! I ordered a pack of various sized solid brass rods off the net and found one, 4mm, that did the job. I sprayed both sides of the needle jet with PB Blaster and then lightly tapped the punch through from the bottom with a rubber mallet. I had ordered another one but it was a different size so I just cleaned the original up and reinserted it. Thanks again.

 

[SeanFD]

Glad you got sorted.

I have just been through the same process. I used a plastic chopstick to get the jet shifted and then changed to a wooden one, which was slightly thinner, to drift it out.

Like you, I cleaned it up and put it back.

Sean

 

[SeanFD]

Don't mean to highjack the post, but it seems a sensible place to post my questions which relate directly to the same carbs. If I've erred, please let me know.

So today I "finished" rebuilding my carbs.

I watched the CMC videos on rebuilding CB 360/350 carbs and took a lead from here. There are a few differences between 450 and 350 carbs - e.g. the slow jet screws in on teh 450, but I was able to work this out - clever me!!

However at the end of the process I have a couple of questions, I'd appreciate some thoughts on.

1. On removing the needle jet from the piston, a small (tiny) washer also fell out.This does not appear on the diagram in the Clymer manual I have. Is it necessary?

2. The float height according to Clymer is 20mm. According to CMC, for the 350, it is 23mm. Mine were set at 23 +/-. What is the correct setting?

3. The piston moves freely up and down the carb body, but when I put the top on (cylinder vacuum) it becomes a bit sticky. It will move up easily enough, but doesn't immediately drop back down. Is this OK, or do I need to do something to make it move more freely?

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Polish]

On the http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/63-fuel-supply-carburation/24191-rebuilding-vbulletin-carbs.html sticky, it says to polish with 1000 grit or higher the outer surface of the piston and piston cover until when the carbs are upside down and push on the piston, it comes back up. I don't think you have the same carbs, but can apply the same procedure.

 

[Lefty]

Don't mean to highjack the post, but it seems a sensible place to post my questions which relate directly to the same carbs. If I've erred, please let me know.

So today I "finished" rebuilding my carbs.

I watched the CMC videos on rebuilding CB 360/350 carbs and took a lead from here. There are a few differences between 450 and 350 carbs - e.g. the slow jet screws in on teh 450, but I was able to work this out - clever me!!

However at the end of the process I have a couple of questions, I'd appreciate some thoughts on.

1. On removing the needle jet from the piston, a small (tiny) washer also fell out.This does not appear on the diagram in the Clymer manual I have. Is it necessary?

2. The float height according to Clymer is 20mm. According to CMC, for the 350, it is 23mm. Mine were set at 23 +/-. What is the correct setting?

3. The piston moves freely up and down the carb body, but when I put the top on (cylinder vacuum) it becomes a bit sticky. It will move up easily enough, but doesn't immediately drop back down. Is this OK, or do I need to do something to make it move more freely?

Thanks for your thoughts.

#3- are you sure it's not just vacuum locked causing it to fall slowly, because that's what it should do.

 

[WintrSol]

float height should be 20.0mm, using this tool:

 

[SeanFD]

Thanks all,

Job done!

I did do a bit of polishing with 600 grit paper and have now done a bit more and it seems a bit smoother. I also thought it might be the vacuum, but with no previous experience, it was hard to decide.

There is a diagram of that tool, Rick, in the Clymer manual. I spent quite a while trying to work out what it was. This morning I made a "tool" out of a cornflakes packet.



Worked a treat!!

On now to the wheels and forks.

Sean

 

[WintrSol]

I made mine from a sheet of thin stainless and a nibbling tool, so it will last. Not that it gets used much, but I tend to use it 'wet': hold up the float with the tool, open the petcock, and see if the valve seeps, or how much motion it takes to get it to flow a bit. A tiny seepage or motion is OK with me; significant flow or motion and it gets adjusted.

 

[tbpmusic]

I used an old credit card.......