[Dunny]

Hey there guys- my first post although if overcome some issues reviewing earlier posts.

Rebuilding a ‘71 350 K3. Learning by making mistakes. Today while installing fork seals (which I achieved) I thought disassembly was achieved by removing the small Phillips head screw at the underside of the fork where it sits on the axel.
I had to use an impact driver to lose that screw - seems that was a stupid idea- the screw broke free but now turns freely without coming out.

I don’t know what I’ve damaged but I can tell that this fail will cause a leak - what is the solution… is there further disassembly still required or should I have that place where the screw is welded over; I’m at a loss - can anyone help?

 

[01-7700]

that screw doesn't show on the exploded parts - are you able to disassemble further?

 

[Dunny]

I know it doesn’t show on the parts fisch … I’m baffled - I don’t know what else is down in there - the screw spins freely (loose) but doesn’t thread out.

Initially I thought I broke the head free of the shank but no, the head is still connected to something.
I do see a tube inside the bottom tube but I’m afraid to go any further at this point.
suggestions ?
This is the fork type.

 

[Boomer343]

Screw doesn't need to come out to take apart the early forks. Remove the fork tube and you will need to fashion a tool to hold the piece that the screw goes into while you remove the screw. Clean the screw and tube up. There should be a copper compression washer so don't lose it. You can use a small amount of sealant on the screw. Using the tool you have made hold the interior piece while tightening the screw .... I would use a battery powered impact.

If you have a battery powered impact you may get lucky by short power pulses on the screw while it is assembled by it would be a shot in the dark. Not going to work by hand.

 

[Boomer343]

And perhaps invest in a Factory Service Manual or find one on the net .... Clymers manual is a distant second best.

 

[Dunny]

Boomer.
I’m not pickin up what ur layin down…. help a bit more please-

there is a tube inside the bottom tube / are you saying the “tool” I must fashion will be inserted into that inner tube to “hold” something?

I can try that but I don’t know what or how to fashion …. Anything else helps save me… is there a description of the unseen interior you can provide???

 

[Dunny]

Service Manual… I’ll look. I googled several attempts don’t show a ph I’llllips acres- only an Allen head .

 

[01-7700]

 

[Boomer343]

Last vid is K4/K5 ... not the same as K3.

 

[01-7700]

Last vid is K4/K5 ... not the same as K3.

ok thanks

 

[Dunny]

mine does not have the Allen bolt - it has a Phillip’s screw.

I found this but still don’t clearly understand how to resolve my issue. I’d prefer to simply tighten and move forward but I don’t know how to accomplish

 

[01-7700]

you should be able to remove all but the inner dampening tube then use a wood dowel to hold it while you either remove all the way or tighten it back up

 

[Boomer343]

This the part the screw goes into. Wood dowel with a taper will work ... think broom handle. Still works best to use a battery impact.

 

[Dunny]

Ok .. I’m feeling optimistic now - I just want to tighten as I’ve done the fork seals and that’s enough.

what I take from the reply’s is insert a dowel (or broom handle sized wooden tool) which will hold the inner tube steady while I tighten the screw.
Correct?

I’ll try this tomorrow and get back on the thread to advise if it worked. Totally appreciate the assistance - awesome ! JD

 

[fxray]

. . . I just want to tighten as I’ve done the fork seals and that’s enough.

what I take from the reply’s is insert a dowel (or broom handle sized wooden tool) which will hold the inner tube steady while I tighten the screw.

Dunny,
Of course, do as you wish, but I would say that since you already broke the screw(s) loose and found yourself a wooden dowel tool, I would take the screws out and remove the tubes. I say that for a several reasons:

1. Once the screws break loose, you should have no trouble removing them the rest of the way with just a plain screwdriver while you hold the wood dowel against the tube to stop it from turning. Here is what that little machine screw looks like:
   
   
   
   
2. On my '70 SL350K0 forks that I recently rebuilt, there was so much muck and corruption in the lower sliders and in those cushion tubes that it took a long time to clean them even when they were fully disassembled. Yours may not be so bad, but mine was a basket case / long-term barn bike. I was using a recirculating parts washer with mineral spirits and a variety of brushes. It still took a long time to get them cleaned out. I never would have gotten them clean without taking them apart.
3. If you remove the screws, you can anneal and reuse the copper seal washers. Take the washers out with a seal pick. Bend a little hook on the end of a piece of wire and put the washers on there. Hold the copper washers in the flame of a stove burner or a propane torch till they flash cherry red. Douse them in cold water. They will be soft and pliable and will seal as well or better than a new washer. That prevents getting the forks all back together and having the lower screws weep oil.

Stay optimistic!

 

[Dunny]

Ray- thanks for the photo (that’s helpful) and excellent advice -
Im going to get at this later and will come back to explain results. This has all (everyone has) been very helpful - much appreciated. (I’m doing an epoxy lining on the tank today). JD

 

[Dunny]

Hey - thanks everyone for the feed back - it’s been phenomenal - I was worried I had screwed this one up but the feedback here saved tons of worry. I did as advised and - total success- did it ever feel great.

a couple of photos to prove it .. and to make the photos clear in the event I can assist another rookie..instead of a broom handle I used a pliers in the inner tube. The pliers have a soft grip handle which allowed a slight angular and tight fit with a “handle”
That was offset to resist the torque of tightening.

So I’m getting close to complete (l wager I’ll h
need more help with that soon too!)

Thanks again. JD