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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, here’s the back story. My dad purchased this bike new in 1970. He blew one motor in Canada riding across country from Vermont to Colorado. In ‘79 he picked up a new bike and this one was left to rust. The engine seized at some point and a new one was procured but not all the parts were there.
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This is when we got it.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The motor is a K7 model and was an unknown quantity so I decided to completely tear it apart and rebuild it. I’ve never done it before, and though, how hard can it be?!
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You can see all the missing parts (clutch, stator, covers, oil pump, etc.)

Got everything taken down.
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Cleaned everything up, with the help of my son.
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Checked all the tolerances and specs agains the shop manual to make sure everything was ok. Thankfully everything inside looked great!
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Got it all reassembled! I don’t know that I could have done this without the great videos from the guys at Common Motor Collective. Highly recommended!
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Main things we are missing are the starter, seat, and air filters/boxes. I picked up one Mikuni VM32 carb (waiting to find a good deal in the second) so we will upgrade the carbs. Thinking about doing airpods and more of a cafe racer look. Nothing drastic, likely straight bars, new seat, and lower profile tail light, turn signals, and mirrors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Decided to go kickstart only. We are going to have to completely redo to wiring so this should make things a little simpler, save the cost of a starter and larger battery, and drop a little weight (not a big concern). Plus I know I won’t be riding regularly and this way I won’t have to hassle with charging/replacing the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Started working on the wheels this morning. Got the rear bearing out without a problem. Having a tough time getting the front bearing retainer off. It’s different from the ones I’ve seen. Any pro tips?
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Decided to go kickstart only. We are going to have to completely redo to wiring so this should make things a little simpler, save the cost of a starter and larger battery, and drop a little weight (not a big concern). Plus I know I won’t be riding regularly and this way I won’t have to hassle with charging/replacing the battery.
Battery is REQUIRED for the ignition system on this model bike.......
Please phone about your wheel bearings and braking surface........There is a spacer in one rear wheel bearing you need to save and reuse....... Don't throw away the old bearings until you retrieve it.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You can, and in your case you absolutely should, pretty rusty. AFAIK, the speedo drive plate is just held in by the 3 screws you should have had to remove.
Got it!
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Is the inside of the hub smooth, so I can push the bearing out from one side, or do I have to try to get a punch in the middle and push them out from the inside?
 

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You'll need the punch.......Pry the central spacer slightly sideways until the punch can bear on the center of the bearing, and tap it out....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got the wheels disassembled and cleaned up. Waiting for some funds before getting new brake shoes and tires.

A couple questions came up. The spacers between the bearings have some tabs that look to be bent. Do I need to replace the spacers or would it be ok to just bens
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Do you all think I need to replace these spokes and nipples?
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I gently bend the tabs back, they are just to help center the spacers so installing the axle isn't problematic......
I also partially insert the axle while I'm installing the spacer and second bearing........
 

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Someone probably bent the tabs to make it easier to push them aside the next time the bearings needed to be replaced. All that matters with the spacers is the center of them to sit in between the bearings so the axle tightens on the bearing centers without crushing the bearing centers together and ruining the bearings. As for your spokes... looks like the rust will be on the rim when you dismount the tire, you'll probably have some cleanup to do
 
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