The reasons I've read and accept for not weld repairing a drum as I offered up has much to do with 1) hardness (forged steel as compared to drawn), 2) susceptibility of high spots that will get hotter than the rest under light loading, 3) metal can be stuffed off with the soft material and 4) it just isn't done except in the very rare instance where former drum material is ground down and sprayed on with an arc or something like that. There used to be an old guy down the street I could share ideas and had good experience to advise me. He's gone and now I'm the old guy. So I'm asking here.
I've seen weld repairs of motorcycle frames but that is different from a cast and forged drum. Thanks for all comments.
Update. Front drum is fine, new break shoes from Common Motor Collective were just great, thick, so that I moved the splined shaft levers on the drum a couple of notches back to where they were from the factory, I suppose. Concern is for the rear wheel and severe rust it has had over the years. Chrome is bubbling up from the rust that grew next to the inner tube, maybe the chrome is all that is holding the rear wheel together kind of thing. I'm communicating with two members on wheels and there is the $65 plus $100 shipping one of the early messages offered, so there are options out there for me. Thanks.
Thanks to mighty daniel for directing me to a local Craigs list link in Seattle, I did pick up a beautiful rear wheel, complete, very reasonable. The guy has a shop with many more motorcycles he told me. Had a beautiful front fender for a CL450 scrambler, decent rear fender, and lots of small parts. Would have given me free rear shocks. Has cables. PM me if you want his phone number so you can text him. Didn't have to pay shipping which was also nice.
As mentioned earlier, the new brake pads from Common Motor Collective are great on the front wheel on old drum. No problems at all now. With me changing tires though so often due to flats I caused by pinching the tube, I found the way to inflate and center the tire on the rim is to have the valve stem pushed back inside as much as possible as held by the nut. Hammer the tire with a mallet and squeeze it in towards the valve stem area. Then when half full with air and the tire beads are pushed out, pull the stem back out. Also, talc that area inside around the tube first.