How do you guys remove the wheel bearing retainers?

[540nova]

When you reinstall, don't worry about staking. Clean threads thoroughly, and use blue Loctite.

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[Alan F.]

I've just read the same tip elsewhere, good call but use it sparingly.

Before reassembly you can verify the threads are all clean and undamaged by using a bolt with the same thread pitch (M10 oil drain bolt is the same I think)
Use the bolt's threads to force the soft metal of the bearing retainer threads back into good form, use a small angled file if needed. Clean and check the threads in your hub before new bearings go in.

Here's a screenshot again from SOHC4 member Evanphi's build thread. (I hope these guys don't mind being quoted)

[FrisianWheel]

Excellent tip, thanks!

[FrisianWheel]

After almost 3 weeks I've received the two bearing retainer tools and what is the result? Absolutely nothing! Both retainers still sit in the hub as if they are welded into it. I've used the tools with a 1/2" breaker bar extended by steel tube after heating it up. Nothing, absolutely nothing... I'll try again tomorrow but I really don't know what this is. And yes, I've drilled out the stakes... Think I'll have to order new retainers and oil seals and drill that **** out tomorrow. Grrr...

[Alan F.]

That's my reason for punching 2 new stakes after replacing bearings on this type of wheel. While Loctite works great, there is no way for the next guy to know it's in there.

[540nova]

Lay it on the side, soak with KROIL. Not PB Blaster, acetone/trans fluid, etc, KROIL. OVERNIGHT. The next day, heat up the hub for several minutes with a good heat gun. I guarantee it'll spin right out.

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[Alan F.]

Kroil IS a superior product.

[FrisianWheel]

Thanks for the suggestions but it is very difficult to import liquids that contain oils via air freigt to Azerbaijan. Anyway...I've had a second try on the bearing retainers and was at least sucessful on the front wheel retainer and just drilled the other one out. That's done but now I'm having another problem. I really can't get the rear sprocket out. I've tried different approaches to loosen the sprocket from the bolts but no movement at all. Then I saw an (alternative?) part on cmsnl which suggests that there is a rear sprocket which has fixed bolts (Nr. 3 in the picture). Can anyone confirm this? I just want to avoid to damage the dampers with too much heat as they are little pricey with 20 Euros per piece(!). If this is the case and the sprocket has to come out with the fixed bolts, what would be the best option to loosen them? The sprocket is definitely worn and needs a replacment.

[Alan F.]

There's a large snap ring #22 or #23 (can't zoom clearly) that needs to be removed to release the sprocket from the hub. The 4 sprocket studs aren't fixed in place, they slip fit into the rubber dampers.
These studs have a smooth cylindrical end behind the sprocket with two flats that you can get a wrench on to break the nuts loose.

[FrisianWheel]

There's a large snap ring #22 or #23 (can't zoom clearly) that needs to be removed to release the sprocket from the hub. The 4 sprocket studs aren't fixed in place, they slip fit into the rubber dampers.
These studs have a smooth cylindrical end behind the sprocket with two flats that you can get a wrench on to break the nuts loose.

Yeah, I‘ve seen that little snap ring
My question was if anyone has ever seen a sprocket with fixed studs as the cms drawing suggests with no 3 (red circle) because my sprocket seems to be one with the studs. If so I really have to think how to get it out.