CB360 Bearing retainers.... God help me..
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Thread: CB360 Bearing retainers.... God help me..

  1. #1
    Senior Member misterguitar's Avatar
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    CB360 Bearing retainers.... God help me..

    OK. so I've done all the googling. Drilled out the stakes, cleaned with dental pick, PB blaster, wrecked 3 harbor freight pin spanner wrenches, pulled my back out. And my arm out. And this damn thing is still in although it is most of the way backed out. Any advice on getting this [email protected]#$%^&*( thing out? I swear I just wanted to pull the retainer out to clean the bearings and repack grease. Little did I know the hell I was walking into...I feel I made an increadibly foolish mistake even attempting to remove this thing. Anybody make a tool for this thing? Or is it going to be easier to buy a used rear hub on ebay at this point?
    Shawn fetter likes this.

  2. #2
    Senior Member TOOLS1's Avatar
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    I wonder if those are sealed bearings? I just looked on Partzilla, and they are sealed bearings. You cannot repack them, just replace them when they go bad. 96140-63030-10 BEARING (6303U) $8.91
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    Last edited by TOOLS1; 07-17-2016 at 05:11 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member misterguitar's Avatar
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    Unhappy

    Quote Originally Posted by TOOLS1 View Post
    I wonder if those are sealed bearings? I just looked on Partzilla, and they are sealed bearings. You cannot repack them, just replace them when they go bad. 96140-63030-10 BEARING (6303U) $8.91
    TOOLS
    You are correct. Which makes me even sicker realizing none of this was necessary and I should have left the thing well enough alone.

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  5. #4
    Super Moderator Mydlyfkryzis's Avatar
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    At this pont, I would replace the bearings, better than a used hub with unknown bearings. You can make a pin spanner with a couple of nuts and bolts and some flat stock. Carefully measure and drill 2 holes the same distance apart as the holes in the bearing retainer.

    The problem you are having is you are trying to use brute force to remove the retainer. This is one of those situations where you need to be less physically persuasive and more subtle.

    1. Lubrication is your friend. Aluminum corrodes over time and the threads bind. When you muscle it off, the aluminum galls and self welds itself together. The more force you put on, the more welding you do. The aluminum gets stronger. If the retainer can move at all, get penetrating oil on it. Loosen a little (even just a very little), then tighhten, then loosen. Like shampoo, repeat as necessary. Keep the penetrating oil on it. This way, the oil keeps the aluminum from destroying itself and your muscles. You need to be patient. However, sometimes it doesn't work too well.

    2. Heat is the friend that brings over Beer. A propane torch can assist you greatly. Metal expands when heated. This is why you will need new bearing. Heat the hub near the retainer, but not the retainer directly. Heat evenly, move the flame around a lot. As the hub heats up, it should expand and allow the retainer to spin easier. No high force. Also, wear gloves, as it never fails you will bump the hot surfaces. You want to get the hub somewhat higher than boiling water, but not make it glow. A large flame propane/mapp gas torch is better than oxy/acetylene. We are not trying to melt the hub or weaken it. Keep a wet rag nearby, so you can cool the retainer. By keeping the retainer cool and the hub hot, you may be home free.

    Remeber not to overforce the retainer, as you only hurt the tools, the retainer and yourself with excessive force. Let physics be your friend.

    In the end, if you end up damaging the hub...then get a used one, but put new bearing in it. Also, don't loose the center bearing reatainer/support piece. They are difficult to find.
    Shawn fetter likes this.
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    Supporting Member crazypj's Avatar
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    You did drill at least 1/4" deep?
    They are often seized in place, heat and release oil do work.
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  7. #6
    Senior Member JAYinNY's Avatar
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    I would highly recommend getting a proper retainer removal tool. I got one for my CB450K1 from this guy and it worked like a champ.

    Honda Front Rear Wheel Bearing Retainer Tool Set GL1000 1100 Gold Wing HWT055 | eBay

    Your Harbor Fright pin spanners were broken when they were made, much like the vast majority of the crap that they sell. Does anyone know whether these are reverse threads?
    1968 Honda CB450 K1
    1971 Honda CB350 K3
    1969 Honda CB450 K2
    1966 Honda CB450 K0
    1966 Honda CL77

  8. #7
    Senior Member misterguitar's Avatar
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    I did get the tool. and I used an impact wrench with the tool ultimately as I had it so knackered up it would not turn otherwise. I think I totally destroyed a good chuck of the threads. After breaking it in half with a pry bar it FINALY came out. the internal threads on the hub are not bad but pretty gouged. Does anybody know the size of the retainer? I was going to try to either find a machine shop or tap tool big enough to recut the threads. The wheel is in excellent condition otherwise so I hate to toss it. I pondered using the new Honda retainer I got. But the metal is so soft I'm not sure it would not just get stuck and create another headache and cost me another $20 retainer ring. Used a dental pick to clean the threads left. Anybody have any luck retaping these?

  9. #8
    Supporting Member crazypj's Avatar
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    Probably 30 yes ago I ground an old Phillips screwdriver to a 60 degree cutting tool angle then heated it up and bent it 90 degrees about 1/2" from tip so I could use it to clean out damaged threads.
    Still have it in toolbox although I think I've only used it twice in the last 6~7 yrs and didn't use it at all from about 1990 until 2008~9
    Real glad I didn't toss it or make it into something 'new'
    There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't
    I'm not a complete idiot, but, I'm working on it

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