Wheel rim and Tire sizing - Important considerations - Page 2
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Thread: Wheel rim and Tire sizing - Important considerations

  1. #11
    Super Moderator Mydlyfkryzis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Northern NJ USA
    You are putting a very stiff, high braking force fork on a bike that is not designed for those forces. Look at a GSX600 Frame and steering neck support. Compare to the pressed steel frame on a CB350. A stiffer fork will transmit more shock and loading to the neck of the 350. It will work for a while, but at some point, the neck on the 350 will stress fracture, probably under braking. Not much fun. The frame on the 350 is also quite flexible....there is no way to tell how this will affect the handling, but usually it is negative. Modern bikes use perimeter frames to absorb these forces, not downtube frames. You may find the bike handles much worse than stock. If you have not ridden a well put together stock cb350, then you will have nothing to compare too. You may think it handles well, but probably doesn't.

    A K1200 is a bigger, heavier bike. I used Battleax Tires on my CB750, and they worked well. I then replaced with stock Dunlops K505, the OEM tire actually worked noticeably better. I would of said the Battleax tires were great, until I tried the OEM size/model. Manufacturers pick tires sizes and models specifically, often have special tire models purposely built.

    You are not going to go fast enough for sport racer tires to heat up well and have good traction. The stock, smaller tires are more loaded and heat up to proper temperature faster. Because something works well on a 100HP 4cylinder bike does not mean they will work well on a 34 HP, lightweight bike.....

    So all in all, I do not know how wide can you go, and can't recommend you do it at all.

    It is your bike, your life, so do whatever you please.

    Not trying to rain on your parade, but trying to convey decades of experience. I have the scars and memories of my attempts. Hopefully no scars for you.
    Last edited by Mydlyfkryzis; 06-20-2015 at 02:27 PM.
    MDM, mckinley, Quixote and 3 others like this.

    Mydlyfkryzis = Mid Life Crisis
    My Build:http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/1-p...-ignition.html

    1991 Honda Nighthawk 750 "Big Red"
    1976 CB360t "Sophie"

  2. #12
    Junior Member boyracer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    The Kawasaki 750 H2 triple ran a 1.85"wide rim with a 3.25 x 19 front, and a 2.15" wide rim with a 4.00 x 18 rear. Felt like driving on liquid snot. Was called the Widow Maker. I rode a CB 450 for years with 2.00" wide rims front and back with an Inoue 3.50 x18 front and an Inoue 4.00 x 18 back. Had to push the bars to get it off the vertical, then it would fall into the turn. Was very predictable. The flexi flyer frame was more of a problem than the fudging on the tire/rim size. My point, horsepower, frame, frame geometry, rider skill level and handling preferences all go into what works for you. My mentor said everything is a compromise in engineering. Taught me to take out the compromises that didn't work for me, make the ones that do. 4.00 inoue rear with a 3.25 ribbed front felt the best but pushed the front end much sooner than running the 3.50. My working hypothesis from 40 plus years ago.
    Ran tubes for smaller cross section tires, adjusted tire air pressure to get the wear pattern I wanted. Made the tire feel as if it was on a wider rim. My opinion.
    Last edited by boyracer; 06-30-2016 at 12:52 AM. Reason: add info

  3. #13
    Junior Member Aquaticb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Sacramento, CA
    This helped me to realize that getting a fat tire up front might look cool, magazines and photos...., but if I want to have handling and safety, I would be going in the wrong direction and should at a minimum stick with the stock setup, and for improvement increase rim size. Thank you

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