CL350 front wheel not centered - Page 2
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 18 of 18
Like Tree4Likes

Thread: CL350 front wheel not centered

  1. #11
    Senior Member bigring911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Ottawa, ON
    Posts
    207
    Thanks AD for responding.
    After the axle is tightened, but not over tightened, it will not spin freely like you’d expect. It rotates an eight (at best) before stopping.
    The brake backing plate will turn freely as well, without the axle in and tightened.
    Can’t get my head around the problem. I can turn the bearing sleeve easily and they feel smooth. they’re both brand new and an original Honda part. The spacer inside the hub did feel loose before my last check when I was able to get the bearings to sit a little further in the hub. The spacer now doesn’t have play, but I can still make it move by sticking a screw driver in and trying to wiggle it.
    The axle does not appear bent at all. I recall when I took the front wheel off the axle it was very tight to get off but the wheel spun freely. I don’t have to tighten it very much at all to get the binding or resistance I feel now.
    I think I’m going to remove the bearings and try reinstalling them.
    Last edited by bigring911; 06-02-2019 at 08:00 PM.
    '72 CL350

  2. #12
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Roanoke, Virginia
    Posts
    25,515
    IIRC, the right-side bearing has a seating ring at the bottom (inside ) and MUST be fully pressed/driven in first......This "sets" the positioning of the left side bearing as well.....

    I suspect the reason the wheel is slightly to the left is the right bearing isn't fully seated... This allows all the remaining bits to shift right as well, moving the wheel to the left.....
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
    Contact info: E-mail; [email protected] Phone; 540-525-5199

  3. #13
    Senior Member bigring911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Ottawa, ON
    Posts
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by 66Sprint View Post
    IIRC, the right-side bearing has a seating ring at the bottom (inside ) and MUST be fully pressed/driven in first......This "sets" the positioning of the left side bearing as well.....

    I suspect the reason the wheel is slightly to the left is the right bearing isn't fully seated... This allows all the remaining bits to shift right as well, moving the wheel to the left.....
    Bang on the money Steve....as usual. The right-side bearing wasn't fully seated. I thought it was, I really thought it was. After reading what you wrote I went at it again and it did go in. I now have a freely spinning front wheel. However, the wheel isn't completely entered. It's slightly better than it was, but still a bit out.

    I was reading past front wheel & bearing installation threads and came across this, which coincidentally you took part in the solution too Steve (Originally posted 05-02-2016 - link here):

    Hi all,

    I had my K4 front wheel apart for new bearings (All Balls 6302's) and new brakes.

    The problem: when the axl nut was cranked down past 10 foot pounds, the brake plate would bind.

    Things checked:

    Bearings were correct and seated all the way and true. The bearings were holding the center bushing nice and snug. The speedo gears were free and operated smoothly. There was only one paper thin thrust washer in between the speedo gear and the brake plate.

    Obviously something was off with the spacing on the brake plate center tube and the face of the inner race of the brake side bearing... So I thought.

    I was stumped, so I called Sensai Steve. He suggested taking out the large speedo gear and try torquing to spec. Sure enough it worked and the hub spun free.

    We then drank coffee and scratched our heads.

    He then asked me to measure from the inner bearing race on the brake side to the machined surface where the speedo gear engages. It was not flush. The inner race was 1/16" recessed. Hmmmm.

    More coffee and head scratching.

    We figured a 1/16" thrust washer in between the bearing inner race and the brake plate inner mating surface would make up the difference.

    This solution worked perfectly with the axl torqued to 45 foot pounds. There was no increase in overall axle/hub width that would splay the forks.

    A follow up phone call, while fighting my hysterical 7 month old daughter Ella, yielded this conclusion:

    The new bearings are thinner than stock originals or the beveled edge on the new bearing's outer race surface edge is "more rounded" allowing it to seat lower in the hub. Also, you can't argue with a cranky 7 month old.

    Thank you very much to Steve and his steel trap

    P.S. I have used All Balls bearings for all my bike needs. They are great however, "mind the gap".


    I am wondering if this is the issue that I am having??
    chaindrivecharlie likes this.
    '72 CL350

  4. Remove Advertisements
    HondaTwins.net
    Advertisements
     

  5. #14
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Roanoke, Virginia
    Posts
    25,515
    I know its long distance/international, but a phone call MAY solve this.......
    chaindrivecharlie likes this.
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
    Contact info: E-mail; [email protected] Phone; 540-525-5199

  6. #15
    Senior Member 83XLX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Heart of Dixie
    Posts
    2,848
    This may have nothing to do with your problem, but are your axle clamps on correctly? The ends aren't flush with the lower leg mating surfaces.
    1969 Honda CL350
    1983 H-D XLX-61 Sportster

  7. #16
    Senior Member bigring911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Ottawa, ON
    Posts
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by 83XLX View Post
    This may have nothing to do with your problem, but are your axle clamps on correctly? The ends aren't flush with the lower leg mating surfaces.
    From what I understand they don't. The front of the axle clamps are longer/taller in the front, which you clamp tight before tightening the back.

    What's a good time to phone Steve? Cheers
    '72 CL350

  8. #17
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Roanoke, Virginia
    Posts
    25,515
    Anytime........
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
    Contact info: E-mail; [email protected] Phone; 540-525-5199

  9. #18
    Senior Member bigring911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Ottawa, ON
    Posts
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by pemdoc65 View Post
    It is also possible that the wheel was laced with an incorrect offset. That will make your hub centered, but the rim not.
    My apologies Pemdoc, you were correct! I really thought my wheel was correct with it's offset - however, I was a bit off which was part of the problem. I had remedied the right bearing and got the wheel spinning - that solved part of the issue. I gave Steve a call this evening and he walked me through the rest of the problem. I wished I had taken a photo at the time to show that my left side wheel bearing was not quite flush inside the hub. Got that fixed then we measured the distance from the spoke flange to the inside of the fork lowers and confirmed everything was lined up, all parts in place, bearings were good, etc. And thus left the issue that Pemdoc brought up - the offset of the wheel.

    All said and done, the wheel is fixed and sits perfectly centred after loosening/tightening/re-balancing the front wheel.

    Really really grateful for this forum and Steve for taking the time to help a newbie!
    '72 CL350

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •