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Thread: Killing During Idle After Carb Rebuild

  1. #11
    Supporting Member Yendor's Avatar
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    Yes - Correct.
    The float hangs upside down.
    So a greater distance means it is suspended at a lower point when the needle shuts off the fuel flow.
    Hence a lower level in the fuel bowl.
    1970 CB 350 CAFE - Current Project on the bench,
    1972 CB 350 K4 Red - Now a Happy Rider ! !
    1972 CB 350 K4 Green (My Sons) DONE - YES !,
    1st Bike 1970 SL 350 (Brought home in Parts - Trailer/Trunk/Back Seat - I miss that bike),
    2nd - Bike Kawasaki 750
    3rd - '73 XLCH 1000

  2. #12
    Junior Member Donjamin's Avatar
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    I would make a guess that you have set the float wrong.
    I had a similar problem on my '75 CB200T. Re-check your float height.

    D.

  3. #13
    Junior Member nest711's Avatar
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    Hey guys well I'm back after finally getting to it, some stuff popped up as it always does.
    Well anyways I raised the floats to a little under 21mm each and the bike now runs for about 30mim before dying completely and being unable to start at all until it's sat a good while.

    Couple of issues I noticed this time around:
    The butterfly on my left carb is worn to the point where it cannot get tight enough during bench sync to match the right. To compensate I made them both similar, but not perfect, at a looser setting.
    I was leaking a good bit of air by the right exit exhaust- the copper rings that butt in are present and it wasn't doing this last time so kinda at a loss there-maybe I didn't screw it on at the correct angle.
    The right spark plug is still fouling, but new issue is the left plug doesn't seem to be used at all. It looks brand new (put a new one in after changing the floats). It doesn't look like anything on a plug chart-just looks brand new.
    Misfiring badly this time around as well you could audibly hear it struggle on one side on the engine.

    Well I think that's about it, getting a little frustrated as I've doing everything in the full tune up by the book, but I'm stating to wonder if I bought a bike that needs serious bottom end engine work which I quite frankly don't feel comfortable doing and don't have cash to pay the non existent vintage mechanics around here. Lemme know what you guys think

    For reference the killing after 20-30 minutes of idling has been there from the start. The jack ass of a previous owner didn't tell me about it at all and seeing as I only took a 10min, or maybe even less, ride on it the issue never surfaced until I tried to ride in the following days. I figured it just needed a general tune up but doesn't seem that way anymore.
    Last edited by nest711; 03-31-2019 at 10:07 AM. Reason: More info

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  5. #14
    Supporting Member Yendor's Avatar
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    25-30min. then dying could easliy be as simple as a clogged Fuel Vent in the Gas Cap.

    Does it have the same problem if you don't secure the gas cap?
    J-T likes this.
    1970 CB 350 CAFE - Current Project on the bench,
    1972 CB 350 K4 Red - Now a Happy Rider ! !
    1972 CB 350 K4 Green (My Sons) DONE - YES !,
    1st Bike 1970 SL 350 (Brought home in Parts - Trailer/Trunk/Back Seat - I miss that bike),
    2nd - Bike Kawasaki 750
    3rd - '73 XLCH 1000

  6. #15
    Junior Member nest711's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yendor View Post
    25-30min. then dying could easliy be as simple as a clogged Fuel Vent in the Gas Cap.

    Does it have the same problem if you don't secure the gas cap?

    Gas cap is brand new so I don't think it's clogged, but I can give it a try. I'm still using those extra long fuel hoses as well. Think that could be a factor?

  7. #16
    Supporting Member Yendor's Avatar
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    I think I saw the Sintered Brass type fuel filters in your hoses.
    These are typically used on Pressfeed systems that have a Fuel Pump.

    FYI - they will restrict the fuel flow.

    Gravity feed fuel to the carbs needs a very free flowing supply.
    The Filter Screens in the Petcock valve and pickup screens in the tank should be all you need.

    If you believe you MUST have filters use the pleated paper types.
    They are MUCH-MUCH less restrictive.
    1970 CB 350 CAFE - Current Project on the bench,
    1972 CB 350 K4 Red - Now a Happy Rider ! !
    1972 CB 350 K4 Green (My Sons) DONE - YES !,
    1st Bike 1970 SL 350 (Brought home in Parts - Trailer/Trunk/Back Seat - I miss that bike),
    2nd - Bike Kawasaki 750
    3rd - '73 XLCH 1000

  8. #17
    Senior Member bigring911's Avatar
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    Sounds like it’s a fuel issue but I’ll throw it out there as it sounds like a similar problem I was having . . .
    As per your spark plug not being fouled - are your coils good and getting a good spark in that cylinder? I had fuel problems but once I solved them I found out that my coil was fried - probably my own fault for leaving the key on while working on it.
    '72 CL350

  9. #18
    Junior Member nest711's Avatar
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    Back again, I took off the brass filters, strapped the tank to the back of the bike, and cut some proper length fuel line. Not backfiring like it was before, but bike still kills after 5-10mim of idling.

    I'm thinking I'll have to raise the floats more but they're already at a little under 21mm and stock is 18.5mm for a cl360, so I'm a little worried there's a bigger issue here.

    Left plug still looks clean as well going to check the coil soon.

  10. #19
    Senior Member middletons's Avatar
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    On the 360 carbs, the balance adjust mechanism between the carbs is pretty finnicky. If the spring is collapsed, the mechanism is binding, or the aliminum pieces that connect to it are bent, you will not get it to run right. The locknut and special bolt can strip etc. Kinda hard to explain but make sure that all the parts are correctly installed and working freely.

    I'm battling this problem on my 360 at the moment. Once adjusted the spring is not providing enough pressure to keep the two butterflies synced all the time and one of the throttle shaft ends is bent. trying to get it sorted.
    Last edited by middletons; 04-08-2019 at 07:38 PM.
    1975 CB125
    1972 CB350
    1975 CB360

  11. #20
    Senior Member mike in idaho's Avatar
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    "The butterfly on my left carb is worn to the point where it cannot get tight enough during bench sync to match the right."
    Carb butterflies don't wear out, if the butterfly is not a good fit in the carb body someone has had it apart and put it back together crooked, loosen the screws and re-align it so it can meter fuel/air properly.
    "The right spark plug is still fouling, but new issue is the left plug doesn't seem to be used at all. It looks brand new (put a new one in after changing the floats)."
    Pull off the
    air cleaners and squirt a small amount of gas or carb cleaner into the carb throat while it's running. If it picks up a little bit doing that it's too lean, if it stumbles it's too rich.
    What does the battery voltage read, after it quits? Long periods of idling is a guaranteed way to kill the battery, it doesn't put out enough watts to keep up with the current draw under 3,000 rpm.
    '65 YG1
    '65 CB160
    '66 CL160
    '67 CL77
    '68 TR6
    '69 T100R
    '69 T120R
    '72 Commando 750
    '78 XS650E
    '79 Gl1000
    '81 440 LTD
    My company car is a Kenworth

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