1971 CB350 K3 Motor Rebuild - Page 3
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Thread: 1971 CB350 K3 Motor Rebuild

  1. #21
    Member doctorruckus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ancientdad View Post
    Delta is less money and they do good work, I've personally used them a couple times
    Quote Originally Posted by longdistancerider View Post
    Delta charged me $122.21 July 30, 2019 to resurface the cam and rockers
    Sold!

  2. #22
    Super Moderator longdistancerider's Avatar
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    Here's his eBay link https://www.ebay.com/str/schumannmotorworks or you can call Chris at the number I posted earlier.
    Price depends on the work needed. For me it was a light resurface, 1 Time Sert for the damaged sparkplug thread, 2 stainless exhaust valves, 2 Kibble White intake valves, 4 bronze valve guides and 4 Viton valve seals plus the Serdi valve seat cut. A little over $400 for everything.
    Jim O'Brien
    1979 CM400T "road bike" modified for travelling
    1978 CB400T1 restored
    1972 CL350 nuts and bolts restore in progress


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  3. #23
    Member doctorruckus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longdistancerider View Post
    Here's his eBay link https://www.ebay.com/str/schumannmotorworks or you can call Chris at the number I posted earlier.
    Price depends on the work needed. For me it was a light resurface, 1 Time Sert for the damaged sparkplug thread, 2 stainless exhaust valves, 2 Kibble White intake valves, 4 bronze valve guides and 4 Viton valve seals plus the Serdi valve seat cut. A little over $400 for everything.
    That’s not bad. I’ve already spent enough that I’ll keep this damn thing for life. Now I just have to find someone for the cylinder hone/bore. Thanks!

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  5. #24
    Senior Member jakec's Avatar
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    I live in Fremont in seattle. Just wondering if I was gona meet a riding buddy. Don't go too fast, I don't want you to finish your rebuild before me I'm also working in my apartment building garage.
    1975 CB400 F0 Stock
    1974 CB550 K0 Chopper
    1970 CL350 K2 Stock

  6. #25
    Member doctorruckus's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone. Cam is off to Delta today. Head is going to Schumann. Now just to measure my cylinder to see if it needs boring.

    Someone suggested changing the cam chain out while I have the top end apart, what are your thoughts on this? It doesn't look worn by naked eye? I think almost all issues I've had with bad compression leading to leaky valves is because the cam chain hadn't been adjusted. I already got all new tensioner stuff.
    Last edited by doctorruckus; 11-05-2019 at 01:51 PM.

  7. #26
    Senior Member Boomer343's Avatar
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    Cam chains are relatively cheap so I always replace them. They do stretch and wear internally.

    You will be splitting the cases to clean and replace seals ( note you don't have to split the cases to do this but it is much easier) so it is a few extra minutes to do the cam chain.

  8. #27
    Super Moderator longdistancerider's Avatar
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    Since you're replacing all the chain components why not the chain as well? That way you are 100% sure everything is good. BTW, the cam chain tension doesn't affect the valves seating, only the cam and ignition timing. Valve wear/burning is more an adjustment issue. Here's a source https://4into1.com/d-i-d-cam-chain-2...0-sl350-cb750/
    Jim O'Brien
    1979 CM400T "road bike" modified for travelling
    1978 CB400T1 restored
    1972 CL350 nuts and bolts restore in progress


    https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/22...d-attempt.html and https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/1-...r-attempt.html
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  9. #28
    Member doctorruckus's Avatar
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    So I still haven't found anyone for the honing/boring. I went out and played with my dial bore gauge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

    I put the 2.4" pin in, with the 0.08 and 0.04" spacers in. This is supposed to be 2.52" or spec for the bore. I then zero'd it on my mic set to 2.52 and even checked it with a digital caliper. So I ran it in the bore following youtube videos and each time it seemed to settle or reverse around the 20 mark on the dial. I did this in 8 places in each cylinder and they all seemed to stop around the 20 mark. Does that mean my measurement is 2.522"?

    I feel like I shouldn't use that 0.4" spacer and maybe use the 0.2? Or am I supposed to get it close as possible? I know with me being new and having cheap tools there's lots of error possible, but I should be close. I'm not making any decisions on this and will get whoever hones it to measure as well.


    I know you all will suggest a bore if it's at that limit, right? What's my bore over? Does this mean new pistons?
    Last edited by doctorruckus; 11-05-2019 at 07:29 PM. Reason: zeroes are hard

  10. #29
    Senior Member Boomer343's Avatar
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    That type of bore gauge makes it very difficult to get accurate measurements. It is so easy to tilt it and be out of square with the bore.

    You can use it to check taper and out of round to get an idea of cylinder wear.

    Every cylinder I have taken in has had taper and worn the bore at an angle on at least one cylinder. I made the machinist work a little extra last time when I only went .5 over a stock cylinder as I had a new piston set in that size. He had to do one pass then reset to finish. I would just go to a full 1 or at least .75 over. You won't be back in there in all probability and cylinders are easy to find if needed.

  11. #30
    Member doctorruckus's Avatar
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    Thanks Boomer.

    Does anyone have any suggestions where I can send this to? I can’t find anyone to do work up where I’m at. Preferably someone that can supply the new pistons/rings. I’ll probably just go 1mm over as Boomer suggested.

    Side note: how bad will my head guy hate me if I can’t get all the gasket off? Is that part of their cleaning or should I be as spotless as I can before I send it? Also I need to remove the exhaust studs first right?

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