Removing Cylinder Head Studs
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Thread: Removing Cylinder Head Studs

  1. #1
    Senior Member barab63's Avatar
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    Removing Cylinder Head Studs

    Could not find this subject so starting new post. On a 1972 CB350K4, trying to remove cylinder head studs. I tightened two nuts against each other on a stud, put a healthy amount of PB Blaster at the base of the stud, but could not turn the stud. I don't want to break anything, so I was wondering if a heat gun is a practical solution and is it possible to apply too much heat?
    Current projects: 1972 CB350K4, 1969 CB750. Road worthy bikes: 1973 CB750K3, 1980 CX500

  2. #2
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    My question is Why do you find it necessary to remove them?........
    TOOLS1 and budlite282 like this.
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
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  3. #3
    Senior Member the-chauffeur's Avatar
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    There's various ways of getting them out, but the double/triple nut method is one of the least destructive. A heat gun almost certainly won't get the cases hot enough to do any damage, but equally, it may not get them hot enough to release the studs.

    A blowtorch would be a better bet, but don't go berserk. I removed mine to replace them with heavy duty (race) studs because . . . reasons. Didn't have too much trouble in the end, but be very careful when you put the replacement studs in to get them set to the right height. It's easy to not set them deep enough in the cases and if you do that, you won't be able to torque the top end down enough to seal the engine. Trust me when I say that's no fun.

    Basically, unless you've got a (really) good reason to pull them out, I wouldn't bother . . .
    CL77 (1966)
    CA77 (1966)
    SL350 K0 (1969)

    SL350 K2 (1971)
    CB450 K6 (1972)
    CB750 K2 (1972)

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  5. #4
    Senior Member barab63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66Sprint View Post
    My question is Why do you find it necessary to remove them?........
    Error: I want to remove the studs from a donor K3, not my K4. Trying to rearrange parts and pieces to make storage more efficient.
    Current projects: 1972 CB350K4, 1969 CB750. Road worthy bikes: 1973 CB750K3, 1980 CX500

  6. #5
    Senior Member barab63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the-chauffeur View Post
    There's various ways of getting them out, but the double/triple nut method is one of the least destructive. A heat gun almost certainly won't get the cases hot enough to do any damage, but equally, it may not get them hot enough to release the studs.

    A blowtorch would be a better bet, but don't go berserk. I removed mine to replace them with heavy duty (race) studs because . . . reasons. Didn't have too much trouble in the end, but be very careful when you put the replacement studs in to get them set to the right height. It's easy to not set them deep enough in the cases and if you do that, you won't be able to torque the top end down enough to seal the engine. Trust me when I say that's no fun.

    Basically, unless you've got a (really) good reason to pull them out, I wouldn't bother . . .
    I need to learn new skills, so I'm thinking that practicing on a non-essential (for now) component is a safe move.
    Current projects: 1972 CB350K4, 1969 CB750. Road worthy bikes: 1973 CB750K3, 1980 CX500

  7. #6
    Senior Member pemdoc65's Avatar
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    A metric stud remover works great. It can slide over the stud down to the base, then the cams inside grip the stud as you turn it.

    This is the set that I have. It's also great for installing exhaust studs.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/MATCO-TOOLS...gAAOSw8OtdoPeu
    1965 CB450 K0
    1966 CB450 K0 (current project)
    1964 CB77
    1965 CB77
    1964 CB72 (upcoming project)
    1965 CB72 (current project)
    1964 CA77
    1972 CB350 K4
    1960 Triumph TR6 Trophy (always looking for parts to finish this one...)
    1980 CB750K
    1982 XL250R

  8. #7
    Senior Member mike in idaho's Avatar
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    This is the best tool:
    https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-71200-S...s%2C205&sr=8-8
    Good luck, you don't want to twist one off or ruin the case threads, be sure and warm the case first.
    '65 YG1
    '65 CB160
    '66 CL160
    '67 CL77
    '68 TR6
    '69 T100R
    '69 T120R
    '72 Commando 750
    '78 XS650E
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  9. #8
    Senior Member barab63's Avatar
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    Many thanks to all the responses. I'll try some heat, maybe invest in a stud puller. Once again, the forum has helped. J
    Current projects: 1972 CB350K4, 1969 CB750. Road worthy bikes: 1973 CB750K3, 1980 CX500

  10. #9
    Super Moderator longdistancerider's Avatar
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    I had 3 badly damaged studs on my CL350. Two came out with difficulty using the Lisle tool mentioned. The 3rd sheared off requiring being drilled out. Fortunately the cylinder and case mating surfaces are parallel so I mounted the case to a piece of plywood and was able to position the case to drill it out. I do have 1 extra front outer stud with the rubber insulator if you're in need
    Jim O'Brien
    1979 CM400T "road bike" modified for travelling
    1978 CB400T1 restored
    1972 CL350 nuts and bolts restore in progress


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  11. #10
    Senior Member the-chauffeur's Avatar
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    I find the Matco-style stud removers are great if the studs aren't holding too tight. If they're really tight in, the cam-grip mechanism on the inside has a nasty habit of chewing up threads, esp. when you're dealing with cylinder studs where the body of the stud is narrow and the only thing to get hold of is the threaded ends. I've also had two sets and found the 10mm gave up both times. Admittedly it's the one I tend to use most, but it hasn't taken long for them to refuse to grip. I've since picked up a Lisle-style remover but haven't had a chance to give it a go yet because I discovered blow torches.

    If you don't care about the studs themselves, one of the better ways I've heard of shifting them is to heat them and bend them at 90deg. Gives you a lot more purchase and torque force, but as LongDistance has found, you don't want them shearing off. Also, how far you bend them depends of how many others are left - you don't want to get a half turn in and find you can't go any further 'cos you're up against another stud.
    CL77 (1966)
    CA77 (1966)
    SL350 K0 (1969)

    SL350 K2 (1971)
    CB450 K6 (1972)
    CB750 K2 (1972)

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