struggling to get my CL350 running correctly
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Thread: struggling to get my CL350 running correctly

  1. #1
    Senior Member sbaugz's Avatar
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    struggling to get my CL350 running correctly

    LOOKING FOR ADVICE on a friends bike
    i've about had it with this CL350. Wondering if anyone has any thoughts.


    CL350 that initially ran well. Did a light customization on it including UNI pods and stock headers with EMGO slip ons. Had the carbs rebuilt and re-jetted (supposedly professionally). Got the bike back together and it ran like crap. Cuts out and loses power around 6000RPM. took a look at carbs again- seems OK. Just for the hell of it, we upgraded to a complete dynotek ignition (pickup, wires, coil) . Compression is good. New plugs, new petcock and lines.

    Bike still runs like crap above 6000RPM. Below that, its fine- you get to about 6000-6500 RPM and it starts bogging and losing power. In particular, it gets really bad in top gear (5th) when you try to go past 6000 RPMs. Only tops out at about 60MPH before it loses power.


    Took a look at the carbs myself today for the third time. Everything looks good, except one of the floats was bent and way off, so I figured I would get lucky today, but that didn't seem to solve the issue.

    So....... I figured i would do some more troubleshooting. I ran the bike on one cylinder purposely by disconnecting a plug wire one at a time. When I run the left cylinder only, it runs great. I can shift thru all the gears to redline. When I try the right cylinder, it bogs out and loses power around 6000 RPM, similar to my issues that I am having. So it seems something is awry on the right side.

    I swapped out left and right fuel lines--- No change. Still loses power on the right side.
    I swapped out all the ignition wires, coils, plugs etc from right to left---- No change, which implies its not the ignition. Still loses power on the right side.
    I swapped out all the internal carb parts including needles, floats, diaphragms, etc from right to left- No change. Still loses power on the right side.

    Any thoughts? Seems like it is probably NOT the carbs or the ignition. Could it be a valve issue? You would think it would run like crap all the time and not just at 6000 RPM and above? I suppose some of you will chalk it up to PODS and tell me that CL350's cannot run properly on PODS. I get that, but if it were jetting or PODS, I don't think it would be acting the way it is.

  2. #2
    Senior Member doode's Avatar
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    What's the primary and secondary main jets?

  3. #3
    Senior Member sbaugz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doode View Post
    What's the primary and secondary main jets?
    i honestly don’t know. I’d have to look. The guy who rebuilt them the first time said he jetted them for PODS. If it were a jetting issue, why would it only have the problem on the right cylinder and not the left? Even after swapping all the jets right to left.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member doode's Avatar
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    Jetting for pods (not really a real thing) is worthless if you change out the exhaust

  6. #5
    Senior Member Boomer343's Avatar
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    Check the slide and diaphragm on both carbs. Look for pinholes in the diaphragm by shining a light at it.

    I clean and polish slides and bores and check for smooth action.

    I would also suggest pushing the brass emulsion tubes out and checking that all the holes are clear.

  7. #6
    Senior Member 80cb400t's Avatar
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    It would make sense to do a valve adjustment to rule that out. If no change maybe a compression check to make sure you've got similar compression on both sides would be a good idea?
    Also, does the dynotek ignition use the points? Is it possible that the points on that side have always been off and the electronic ignition was set that way as well? Seems worth investigating.
    1980 CB400T - 1 running, 1 parts bike
    1965 CB160 - 1 kind of running, 1 parts bike

  8. #7
    Senior Member sbaugz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doode View Post
    Jetting for pods (not really a real thing) is worthless if you change out the exhaust
    It was re-jetted for the exhaust and PODS (supposedly) by the guy who rebuilt the carbs the first time

  9. #8
    Senior Member sbaugz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boomer343 View Post
    Check the slide and diaphragm on both carbs. Look for pinholes in the diaphragm by shining a light at it.

    I clean and polish slides and bores and check for smooth action.

    I would also suggest pushing the brass emulsion tubes out and checking that all the holes are clear.
    Emulsion tubes were removed and cleaned three times. Slide diaphragms were checked multiple times as well. Plus- when I cleaned them for the third time, i swapped slides, diaphragms and emulsion tubes right to left carb and it still only loses power on right cylinder

  10. #9
    Senior Member sbaugz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 80cb400t View Post
    It would make sense to do a valve adjustment to rule that out. If no change maybe a compression check to make sure you've got similar compression on both sides would be a good idea?
    Also, does the dynotek ignition use the points? Is it possible that the points on that side have always been off and the electronic ignition was set that way as well? Seems worth investigating.
    The new ignition does not use points. The problem of losing power actually happened with the original ignition and points. With the electronic ignition installed, it is acting exactly the same. I assume that implies the ignition change was irrelevant

  11. #10
    Senior Member 83XLX's Avatar
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    "CL350 that initially ran well. Did a light customization on it including UNI pods and stock headers with EMGO slip ons. Had the carbs rebuilt and re-jetted (supposedly professionally)."

    If it ain't broke, don't break it.

    I'd say it is a carb problem. That said, have you run it enough to get any color on the spark plugs? If so, what does the right plug look like? I'd check the jets in both carbs to make sure they match. Make sure the two press-in jets in each carb have good o-rings on them and they fit tight in the carb. Also make sure the rubber plug is in the hole beside the two main jets and that it fits tight. If you replaced the carb diaphragms, make sure the slides are indexed correctly to the carb body. Recheck the float heights, make sure they move freely, and verify that you get good fuel flow through the float valves. I'd also make sure the chokes are hooked together between the carbs and are staying open, and try running it without the pods just to take them out of the equation.
    1969 Honda CL350
    1983 H-D XLX-61 Sportster

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