Slip Cam without pulling engine? 72 CB350
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  1. #1
    Member Alewiska's Avatar
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    Slip Cam without pulling engine? 72 CB350

    My woodruff key broke on the alternator and was showing a false alignment. (Pretty far off) This had to have happened before I installed the cam and set everything. Is there anyway I can get to the cam shaft to rotate around without completely pulling the engine? It hasn’t been run but I would think the head gasket will be dead once I remove the cylinder head bolts. I’m just trying to do anything (safely) without having to pull the engine. When I do that, because I’m alone (new city) I have to remove everything and basically completely rebuild the frame. Looking for advice.

  2. #2
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, to do it correctly and reduce the risk of further damage, you'll have to remove the engine from the frame........
    Last edited by 66Sprint; 06-07-2019 at 09:05 PM.
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
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  3. #3
    Member Alewiska's Avatar
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    Do I need to replace the head gasket again as well?


    Quote Originally Posted by 66Sprint View Post
    Unfortunately, to do it correctly and reduce the risk of further damage, you'll have to remove the engine from the frame........[IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/images/smilies/icon_e_sad.gif[/IMG][IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/images/smilies/icon_e_sad.gif[/IMG]

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  5. #4
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    It is possible that you could "get away" without changing the head-gasket, but you won't know for sure until the engine is all "buttoned up", back in the frame again, and running......
    IF it leaks, you will be pulling the engine AGAIN and REPEATING all of this work...(and I'm sure you don't want to do this twice....)
    That said, I'd try it anyway....... I would re-torque to the upper end of specs, then check cold compression once the engine is back together (jumping e-start BEFORE re-installing in frame) as an indicator of success or failure ..... Phone to discuss and some hints........
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
    Contact info: E-mail; [email protected] Phone; 540-525-5199

  6. #5
    Member Alewiska's Avatar
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    After we spoke today, I was able to get the cam and valves lined up. Before we do this jump start, do I need to do the following?

    1) oil
    2) timing
    3)valve adjustment
    4) cam tension

    I just wanted to make sure I had everything done properly before I did the jump start check for compression. Thanks in advance!

    Quote Originally Posted by 66Sprint View Post
    It is possible that you could "get away" without changing the head-gasket, but you won't know for sure until the engine is all "buttoned up", back in the frame again, and running......
    IF it leaks, you will be pulling the engine AGAIN and REPEATING all of this work...(and I'm sure you don't want to do this twice....)
    That said, I'd try it anyway....... I would re-torque to the upper end of specs, then check cold compression once the engine is back together (jumping e-start BEFORE re-installing in frame) as an indicator of success or failure ..... Phone to discuss and some hints........

  7. #6
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    The purpose of this endeavor was to set the cam to crank timing, so I'm assuming that has been achieved and verified......
    Install and set camchain tensioner.......
    Continue to follow the sequential steps in the FSM to complete the engine assembly.....
    You need to have the valves adjusted and oil in the engine, but advance and points don't need to be installed yet.....
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
    Contact info: E-mail; [email protected] Phone; 540-525-5199

  8. #7
    Member Alewiska's Avatar
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    Sorry, yes, cam timing is correct. Checked line on sprocket horizontal and indicator bump on shaft at 12 while indicator or stator at LT. Bump on cam shaft is at 6 o’clock 360° later. I doubled checked to make sure the piston was at TDC on LT and Tmarks through both spark plug holes. I think we’re solid. Just need to set the valve clearance now and I should be ready to go. I’ll give you a call, hopefully later this afternoon to run that compression test.

    Quote Originally Posted by 66Sprint View Post
    The purpose of this endeavor was to set the cam to crank timing, so I'm assuming that has been achieved and verified......
    Install and set camchain tensioner.......
    Continue to follow the sequential steps in the FSM to complete the engine assembly.....
    You need to have the valves adjusted and oil in the engine, but advance and points don't need to be installed yet.....
    Last edited by Alewiska; 06-09-2019 at 07:33 PM.

  9. #8
    Supporting Member Yendor's Avatar
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    I can see one of yor fears is the process of removing and re-installing the motor in the frame.

    This has been done single handed by many here, by laying the morotr on its side and lowering the frame over the motor.
    The re-combined assembly isn't all that much to bring back upright.
    1970 CB 350 CAFE - Current Project on the bench,
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    1st Bike 1970 SL 350 (Brought home in Parts - Trailer/Trunk/Back Seat - I miss that bike),
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