CL350 engine top-end deconstruct, reconstruct - Page 3
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Thread: CL350 engine top-end deconstruct, reconstruct

  1. #21
    Senior Member chaindrivecharlie's Avatar
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    You need to look at the skirt on the right piston, it looks broken in the pic. Also the cam chain adjuster, the small idler wheel is pretty chewed up too. I agree with Steve, get the book out and pull the bottom case and clean that motor out.

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    Charlie

    1972 CL 175 K6
    1972 CL 350 K4
    1981 CM 400 C

    Joshua 24:15

  2. #22
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaindrivecharlie View Post
    You need to look at the skirt on the right piston, it looks broken in the pic. Also the cam chain adjuster, the small idler wheel is pretty chewed up too. I agree with Steve, get the book out and pull the bottom case and clean that motor out.


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    You guys are killing me here.
    Definitely starting, no definitely for real getting in way over my head here.
    Don't you need very specialized tools for breaking open the cases?
    As to the cam chain adjuster, are you referring to - Genuine Honda - Cam Chain Guide Roller - 14601-312-000.
    CL350K0
    2016 Harley Ultra Limited
    1971 Ford F100 Flareside (project)
    2016 Ford Expedition
    2018 Ford F150

  3. #23
    Senior Member ancientdad's Avatar
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    With any attention to detail, the bottom end of the engine is as easy or easier than working on the top end. And by cam chain tensioner, he means the metal arm and rubber roller that pushes against the chain to keep it tight (part #3 in the picture in post #4 above), not the center roller... but if #8 (the center rubber roller) is hard and/or brittle and maybe losing pieces, it should be replaced too
    Tom

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    running points... because I'm too old for mysteries that begin with pushing

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  5. #24
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ancientdad View Post
    With any attention to detail, the bottom end of the engine is as easy or easier than working on the top end. And by cam chain tensioner, he means the metal arm and rubber roller that pushes against the chain to keep it tight (part #3 in the picture in post #4 above), not the center roller... but if #8 (the center rubber roller) is hard and/or brittle and maybe losing pieces, it should be replaced too
    Am I working from the right parts manual page?
    Item 2 would be the 14500-312-000 or the cam chain tensioner.
    I noticed a NOS complete kit on ebay at $200 and I found another kit at common for $188.
    I guess, I will look at the manual this weekend while camping in West Texas.
    Breaking cases just seems well above my pay grade.
    Wish I could find another engine that was in good shape.


    CL350 engine top-end deconstruct, reconstruct-cam.chain.tensioner.jpg
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    CL350K0
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    1971 Ford F100 Flareside (project)
    2016 Ford Expedition
    2018 Ford F150

  6. #25
    Senior Member ancientdad's Avatar
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    In the picture in post 4 above, the item (which is the same item we're discussing) is #3, and it's #2 in the picture you posted - but yes, the same item. "Breaking cases" is a bit dramatic... you remove the clutch, oil pump and alternator, take out the bolts (some of which go through from the top), flip the engine over and gently tap the lower case until it comes loose, then lift it off... not rocket surgery, the top end is more tricky for a novice than the bottom is. But I've also noticed that you seem to take your own path, no matter the explanations received - I mean, the PO boogered up one stud but for some reason you feel the need to replace all 8 of them... the PO did the damage, the others will last a lifetime since they have not been damaged. At some point you need to trust the advice being given here, some of these people are as expert as you'll find anywhere as it was their livelihood
    chaindrivecharlie and TOOLS1 like this.
    Tom

    Ride along at the drag strip - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20jFPazXlvU



    running points... because I'm too old for mysteries that begin with pushing

  7. #26
    Member Pops's Avatar
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    Splitting the cases on one of these engines is really no big deal. Plenty of Youtube videos out there showing how it goes together, so familiarize yourself with those first. Undo all the fasteners that hold the case halves together, flip the engine upside-down, the bottom case comes off by itself. The case sealer Honda uses at the factory will still hold the case halves together after the screws are out, so find a place to GENTLY start prying them apart. Once the seal is broken, the halves separate easily. The kickstart mechanism will be the only assembly that comes out with the lower case. The crankshaft and transmission assemblies will stay in the top half. Take pictures as you go so you know how everything goes back together. Again, no big deal.
    chaindrivecharlie and TOOLS1 like this.
    Butch
    72 SL350 Basket Case

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  8. #27
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ancientdad View Post
    In the picture in post 4 above, the item (which is the same item we're discussing) is #3, and it's #2 in the picture you posted - but yes, the same item. "Breaking cases" is a bit dramatic... you remove the clutch, oil pump and alternator, take out the bolts (some of which go through from the top), flip the engine over and gently tap the lower case until it comes loose, then lift it off... not rocket surgery, the top end is more tricky for a novice than the bottom is. But I've also noticed that you seem to take your own path, no matter the explanations received - I mean, the PO boogered up one stud but for some reason you feel the need to replace all 8 of them... the PO did the damage, the others will last a lifetime since they have not been damaged. At some point you need to trust the advice being given here, some of these people are as expert as you'll find anywhere as it was their livelihood
    I am prone to overkill on my projects (hence why not replace them all while I am at it). At the same time, the frustration with this bike is beyond comprehension. Being taken for a ride sucks and that is what the PO did to me with my eyes wide open.
    The knowledge displayed here is intimidating or impressive.
    Rabbit Hole is living up to its name like I have never would have expected. Locally, I have no support resources and not a proper shop.
    Cracking the cases, could easily translate into replacing the clutch components and a few other items - probably for the better.
    However, my issue with cracking the cases was based on Harley knowledge. This appears to be just (an understatement no doubt) a top and bottom setup. On my old Harley, if you needed to get into the bottom end (if I recall correctly) the cases (left and right) were cracked down the center using special tools, etc.
    No doubt new gotcha's are going to show up when I attempt the full deconstruction of this engine.
    CL350K0
    2016 Harley Ultra Limited
    1971 Ford F100 Flareside (project)
    2016 Ford Expedition
    2018 Ford F150

  9. #28
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pops View Post
    Splitting the cases on one of these engines is really no big deal. Plenty of Youtube videos out there showing how it goes together, so familiarize yourself with those first. Undo all the fasteners that hold the case halves together, flip the engine upside-down, the bottom case comes off by itself. The case sealer Honda uses at the factory will still hold the case halves together after the screws are out, so find a place to GENTLY start prying them apart. Once the seal is broken, the halves separate easily. The kickstart mechanism will be the only assembly that comes out with the lower case. The crankshaft and transmission assemblies will stay in the top half. Take pictures as you go so you know how everything goes back together. Again, no big deal.
    Thanks Pops. Now I will have to go back and reread that section. I really over simplified what I was seeing in the manual
    Definitely fear getting anywhere near the transmission.
    CL350K0
    2016 Harley Ultra Limited
    1971 Ford F100 Flareside (project)
    2016 Ford Expedition
    2018 Ford F150

  10. #29
    Senior Member chaindrivecharlie's Avatar
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    Fl100, nobody is trying to make more work for you, on the contray, we all are trying to help you have a good experience. A motor that with proper maintainance and care, will last a long time. Plus you will know the inner workings of your motor. And if there is a problem, you will find it now not later. We are here to help each other grow as bike owners.

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    Charlie

    1972 CL 175 K6
    1972 CL 350 K4
    1981 CM 400 C

    Joshua 24:15

  11. #30
    Senior Member chaindrivecharlie's Avatar
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    Here is a video by Saturdays wrench on teardown by a beginner.



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    Charlie

    1972 CL 175 K6
    1972 CL 350 K4
    1981 CM 400 C

    Joshua 24:15

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