CL350 engine top-end deconstruct, reconstruct - Page 13
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Thread: CL350 engine top-end deconstruct, reconstruct

  1. #121
    Senior Member 83XLX's Avatar
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    It's good to take a break from a rebuild. It clears the mind and re-energizes you when you get back to it. Plus, you need family time to be in the mix. All work and no play makes F100 a dull boy...
    1969 Honda CL350
    1983 H-D XLX-61 Sportster

  2. #122
    Senior Member mikemill's Avatar
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    I have a pretty good CL350 teardown/rebuild overview on my build thread, but it looks like I'm just a little late to the game here! I'm a beginner like you, and I'm glad you ponied up and went for it. I was nervous myself, but I found it to be a fascinating deep dive and taught me a lot about how engines and motorcycles work. Took me a bit longer than you tho...lol.
    1973 CL350 - Project Log

  3. #123
    Senior Member budlite282's Avatar
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    Got my little Honda running, time to get something going on my 350.

    Yep, "me" time is a must on builds like these.
    "If it ain't raining, I'm riding......"

    Work in process:::::::

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  5. #124
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Well sitting in the rv awaiting a rain storm in the piney woods of Texas, I was reading through my Glenn's Honda two cylinder repair guide. Might have to pull the right side cover to get to the clutch pack. Not sure I put the thick clutch plate in first.
    Also learned there is an L mark on on the cam shaft sprocket....with the LT mark on the rotor still aligned with the index line on the stator, raise the timing chain drive sprocket so that you can insert the camshaft. The L mark on the cam sprocket should face straight up. Install the two retaining bolts with the special shoulder bolt on the bottom.
    Something to read while granddaughter and wife play on their iPads.

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    CL350K0
    2016 Harley Ultra Limited
    1971 Ford F100 Flareside (project)
    2016 Ford Expedition
    2018 Ford F150

  6. #125
    Senior Member budlite282's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by f100owner View Post
    Well sitting in the rv awaiting a rain storm in the piney woods of Texas, I was reading through my Glenn's Honda two cylinder repair guide. Might have to pull the right side cover to get to the clutch pack. Not sure I put the thick clutch plate in first.
    Also learned there is an L mark on on the cam shaft sprocket....with the LT mark on the rotor still aligned with the index line on the stator, raise the timing chain drive sprocket so that you can insert the camshaft. The L mark on the cam sprocket should face straight up. Install the two retaining bolts with the special shoulder bolt on the bottom.
    Something to read while granddaughter and wife play on their iPads.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

    Yep.

    Been reading up on all that too. Still need to print the pdf, so I can have a copy in the shop with me.

    But, mostly (cause I haven't actually started anything cept teardown) just reading through the entire manual at work, when I'm not doing anything. (which is most of the day).

    It's interesting what you catch when you read slowly through these books.
    "If it ain't raining, I'm riding......"

    Work in process:::::::

  7. #126
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by f100owner View Post
    Also learned there is an L mark on on the cam shaft sprocket....with the LT mark on the rotor still aligned with the index line on the stator, raise the timing chain drive sprocket so that you can insert the camshaft. The L mark on the cam sprocket should face straight up. Install the two retaining bolts with the special shoulder bolt on the bottom.


    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    Reference the above, while looking at the sprocket last evening after mowing mom's yard, I noticed the L mark on the sprocket. I also noticed a longer line (thinking index line) just to the left of the L. I am thinking that is what should be lined up straight up.
    CL350K0
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    1971 Ford F100 Flareside (project)
    2016 Ford Expedition
    2018 Ford F150

  8. #127
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    Stop there....Please re-read shop manual....... L goes vertical
    Last edited by 66Sprint; 06-21-2019 at 12:48 AM.
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
    Contact info: E-mail; [email protected] Phone; 540-525-5199

  9. #128
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    L on the camshaft gear is vertical nearly center. Had to pull the head off to get more room to insert the gear into the chain. Definitely tight. Rolled rotor through a couple of cycles to make sure everything remained in line and it did. Putting on the points side cover and the tach-side cover were slow processes working them on. Need to pull the left side cover so I can get a better grip on the rotor to tighten up the mounting bolt. It comes lose trying to turn the rotor.
    When I initially cycled the engine through to verify everything lined up, I did not have the followers installed. Once they were installed and everything was reassembled, seems to take a lot more pressure to turn the rotor (hence the bolt coming loose).
    CL350K0
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    1971 Ford F100 Flareside (project)
    2016 Ford Expedition
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  10. #129
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    Figuring you would call if you ran into a problem I have not previously paid much attention to this topic......
    It turns out that the problem was/is the SEQUENCE in which you performed the reassembly of the engine......
    Several out of sequence things I noticed: (in the sequence I noticed them, NOT in the assembly process sequence....REREAD the manual.....)
    Cam chain tensioner assembly installed before cam chain installed and timed on cam sprocket
    Gear wasn't inserted into chain before cam was installed
    Right crank case cover installed before rotor bolt torqued
    The alternator retaining bolt SHOULD have previously/already been torqued to 16 to 17.5 ft/lbs..... IF it "broke loose" simply rotating the engine over, it was EITHER not properly torqued, or SOME other engine part is binding or colliding with something it should not... It should be able to roll the engine over even against full compression and cam/tappet/valve spring pressure ....

    Can you please better explain WHY you had to pull the head off (again?)......
    Also, ARE YOU SURE the "missing flat ring" piece (from oil rings) is NOT actually a fourth stack on/in either piston?

    I know it isn't what you want to hear, but I would tear it back down to the base gasket and (after securing the rotor bolt properly) start over from there........
    (The "Saturdays Wrench" videos do a pretty good job on the correct sequence......)
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
    Contact info: E-mail; [email protected] Phone; 540-525-5199

  11. #130
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    I will probably look at tearing it back down this evening or in the morning after my bicycle ride.
    I will review the steps from the manual/Glenn's and see what I did differently. Thought I was following the instructions. But obviously missed something with the clutch pack when I did not pick up on the thicker plate going first.
    The gear was inserted into the chain before the cam was installed. I did have to pull the head to install the gear.
    As to the rings - working from visual memory two weeks ago - but from what I recall, the pistons have three slots for pistons. The bottom one uses two very thin chromish rings with a honeycomb looking ring sandwiched between them. The middle ring is thicker, plain steel and the top ring has a polished or chrome edge.
    I would have called if I thought I was in trouble.
    CL350K0
    2016 Harley Ultra Limited
    1971 Ford F100 Flareside (project)
    2016 Ford Expedition
    2018 Ford F150

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