CB 360 74 Fresh rebuilt Tapping noise
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Thread: CB 360 74 Fresh rebuilt Tapping noise

  1. #1
    Member Yakoza09's Avatar
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    CB 360 74 Fresh rebuilt Tapping noise

    Hi Guys,

    I finished engine rebuild. My gear teeth broke so i had to replace few gears.

    I managed to put all together again. Today i tried to star motorbike. I used new oil and i kickstatred bike many times to make sure oil will get through.
    - Is it correct way? is there any other way how to make sure oil is running through the system?

    I did cam chain (90 degree from LT), valves (0.3 exhaust and 0.2 intake) and timing.

    than i tried to start bike and after few kicks bike started but quite noisy tapping noise. i think its coming from valves or somewhere there.
    - maybe my valve adjustment or timing its still wrong?

    Is there anything special I should do after fresh engine rebuild?

    CB 360 74 Fresh rebuilt Tapping noise-img_7595.jpg
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    CB 360 74 Fresh rebuilt Tapping noise-img_7602.jpg
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    CB 360 74 Fresh rebuilt Tapping noise-img_7569.jpg
    CB 360 74 Fresh rebuilt Tapping noise-img_7572.jpg
    CB 360 74 Fresh rebuilt Tapping noise-img_7574.jpg
    CB 360 74 Fresh rebuilt Tapping noise-img_7584.jpg
    CB 360 74 Fresh rebuilt Tapping noise-img_7586.jpg

  2. #2
    Member cb360j's Avatar
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    The valve trains on these are historically noisy even when adjusted perfectly. Just make sure your cam chain is adjusted properly and the valves are as well. For getting oil through the engine without starting it, I like to 1: fill the engine oil through the valve covers first. 2: Using a drill and a socket connected at the flywheel (like you would if adjusting the points by hand, but with a drill) you can turn the engine over quickly that way and it will pump oil through it.

  3. #3
    Member Yakoza09's Avatar
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    hi Cb360j,

    Thank you for your response. unfortunately that noise is still there. i know these bikes are doing these noise, but i feel like its stronger than it used to be. i used that bike before so i can compare and i do not feel like it was making same noise before.

    i removed cover and checked everything. i turned engine and everything was fine. nothing seems like there is something blocking something. than i did again cam chain, timing and all of that....when all was back same sound...

    also i checked oil and in those two baths was oil but not a lot so im not sure if oil is geting through. maybe it was correct amount of oil im not sure.

    so far tapping noise from valve cover is still there. im not sure what is it and i do not want to ride it and destroy something...

    btw may it be exhaust leak?

    CB 360 74 Fresh rebuilt Tapping noise-img_7713.jpg
    Last edited by Yakoza09; 05-13-2019 at 02:03 PM.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member middletons's Avatar
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    could be exhaust leak, cam chain tension, or valve lash. that cam is in bad shape. are the bearing areas in the head and cover equally bad?
    1972 CL450
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    1975 CB360

  6. #5
    Supporting Member crazypj's Avatar
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    90% certain you did clearances wrong. You have to hold crank at TDC as springs and generator magnets try and turn things well past correct position. You don't mean 0.2mm and not 0.02 inch? Even if you set them to 0.2mm that's about 4 times bigger clearance than it should be. Use 0.002" for intake, make sure it 'slides' then try 0.003" in there, it shouldn't fit. For exhaust, do same but use 0.003" and 0.004" Itwon't be 100% to 'Honda spec' but will still b way better than 90+% of all the valve adjustments done on all screw adjusters. You will need to bend feeler gauges into a kinda 'J' shape, makes setting valves much easier
    There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't
    I'm not a complete idiot, but, I'm working on it

  7. #6
    Member Yakoza09's Avatar
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    hi crazypj,

    Im sorry it was typo mistake. i did 0.003" etc... not 0.3

    i was doing exactly everything as its on this videos from Common Motor Collective





    i did it all twice and still the same problem. bike is able to start on first second kick but as soon it start i can hear tapping. i feel like its from camshaft and rocker arms or valves im not sure. maybe im wrong. maybe its correct and maybe im just paranoid.

    btw is there any difference between exhaust and valve rocker arm? maybe i put them wrong?


    I will record video tomorrow

  8. #7
    Supporting Member crazypj's Avatar
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    Didn't watch entire vid but as usual Brendan is a great videographer but not mechanic. Even in the video the exhaust tappet is way too noisy showing gap is too big (even 'dry' it shouldn't click that loud) Do it the way I told you (and him) At least he remembered why exhaust clearance is wider than intake. The 0.002" intake clearance or 0.003" exhaust feeler should just barely slide while under adjuster pad, it will be almost impossible to re-fit it after removal (but it is actually possible that's why you check with next size up) using a 'tight' 0.003" on intake is automatically too wide.by 50% He didn't state which way to turn engine,( counter clockwise), it's important as 'wrong' direction will change actual cam position even when timing marks line up. It's also real important when adjusting timing chain or it will be loose. If valves are right, look for exhaust leak as it can sound very much like a loose valve. You did fit correct new gaskets after removing the old ones? (plus have the collets in place under exhaust clamps) Rockers are all the same on 360's
    There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't
    I'm not a complete idiot, but, I'm working on it

  9. #8
    Senior Member ancientdad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazypj View Post
    Didn't watch entire vid but as usual Brendan is a great videographer but not mechanic.
    Thank you. Glad it drives someone else crazy, not just me (no pun intended, pj). So many people watch and rely on those videos... I PMed him 2 years ago and asked him why he didn't run some of the methods he uses by the many knowledgeable people here first before publishing them, but of course he didn't answer
    Tom

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  10. #9
    Supporting Member crazypj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ancientdad View Post
    Thank you. Glad it drives someone else crazy, not just me (no pun intended, pj). So many people watch and rely on those videos... I PMed him 2 years ago and asked him why he didn't run some of the methods he uses by the many knowledgeable people here first before publishing them, but of course he didn't answer
    I was in touch with him a lot, made the vac adapters, throttle shaft plugs plus a few tach and speedo plugs if I remember right. I gave him a lot of information on 360's, hell, it's probably because of me 360 is now so popular, and he has a business (started with just 360's, CB360.com) I 'fixed' the oiling problem causing cam bearings to fail, posted it on DTT probably 9~ 10 yrs ago when I built 378 motors. He wanted 200 sets vac adapters, I made 150 sets but after he sent a set to Canada he never got back in touch. Two years later I'm still sending them there cheaper (still have about 20 sets, guess 360 vac adapter market is just about done )
    krukster86 likes this.
    There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't
    I'm not a complete idiot, but, I'm working on it

  11. #10
    Member Yakoza09's Avatar
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    Hi CrazyPJ,

    Thank you for all your input !!!

    Thank you as well for letting me know about that videos…

    I did short video . i dunno if you or anyone who will see that will can hear the problem, hopefully yes.



    just in short:

    yes i have new cooper exhaust gaskets plus have the collets, everything is there as it should be.

    1_ i did cam chain adjustment
    90 degree from LT (on compression stroke)

    2_ i did valve adjustment, 0.003 on exhaust and 0.002 on intake side
    Left - LT(on compression stroke)
    Right - T(on compression stroke)

    3_i did timing with light
    Left - LF(on compression stroke)
    Left - F(on compression stroke)

    i was turning engine counter clockwise as is showing arrow on the engine


    but after all there is still that tapping noise.

    Im not 100% sure but i feel like that magnet with LT,T,LF,F marks is kind of lazy. I remember that before that magnet was turning by itself and had to use tools to stop on for example LT mark, otherwise spring turned engine. but this time i feel like that springiness is not as strong as before and i am able to move LT on mark without any extra support.(on compression side)

    what do you think guys? do i have to open that engine again?

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