1970 SL175 rear axle nut
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  1. #1
    Member Pintos53's Avatar
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    1970 SL175 rear axle nut

    I went to adjust the chain today and noticed something that doesn't seem right. I thought I remembered the nut holding on the rear axle was a split nut or what I call a castle nut with a cotter pin going through the nut and a hole in the axle to prevent this nut from coming loose. On my bike it has just a nut and a washer with no hole in the axle for a cotter pin. I see nothing there to keep this nut from coming loose. So I looked at an exploded diagram of the rear wheel and it shows both styles of nuts. Since there is no hole in the axle for a cotter pin I am assuming what I have is correct. If this is right what keeps that nut from coming loose and allowing the rear wheel to move? I do have to replace the washer as it's worn down and am wondering if I need to replace the nut also. I was planning on taking it apart this winter to put new brakes on it but I didn't want to do this yet, deer season just opened and I use this bike to get way back in the woods. Now I'm concerned about riding it, if that nut comes loose things could go real bad real quick.
    Thanks for any help.

  2. #2
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    IF you are that worried, you can drill a 1/16 hole through one of the hex points and install a safety wire wrapped to the rear shock clevis........
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
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  3. #3
    Member Pintos53's Avatar
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    Thanks 66Sprint, I thought about that and may end up doing that. I was more concerned about that being some special type of nut I didn't recognize. Also why the exploded diagram would show both types of nuts.
    Thanks for your help, gone huntin.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Richard_Pitman's Avatar
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    I think that the cotter pins came in with the later bikes.

    My CB175K4 had the plain undrilled spindles, and this did bother me a bit, so I bought some later secondhand spindles and castle nuts. From memory, the drilled spindles are a bit longer than the plain ones, not sure if there'd be enough 'meat' to drill the early spindle and fit a castle nut.
    1970 Honda CB175K4
    1972 Honda CL175K7
    1999 Honda CB600 Hornet
    1970 - 1972 Random heap of CB/CL/SL 175 parts, slowly being reassembled ..

  6. #5
    Member Pintos53's Avatar
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    Thanks Richard,
    Just got back from a hunting trip where I rode this bike all over the woods up here. The axle stayed in place just fine so maybe I'm concerned over nothing. I think you are right about the axle with the castle nut came out later, they must have done that over the same concerns that I had. I planned on putting new brakes on it over the winter so I think I'll change that axle out at the same time.

  7. #6
    Senior Member mike in idaho's Avatar
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    Blue loctite, put some on the threads when you install the nut.
    '65 YG1
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    '68 TR6
    '69 T100R
    '69 T120R
    '72 Commando 750
    '78 XS650E
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    My company car is a Kenworth

  8. #7
    Member Grazman's Avatar
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    Hi Pintos,

    My cb175k3 has the plain undrilled spindles with no cotter pin, and in 35 years of riding this bike I've never had any concerns over the nut coming loose.

    Hope that reassures you,

    Cheers Graham

  9. #8
    Senior Member Richard_Pitman's Avatar
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    I intend to use the old style spindles on my faux SL175 build. I only 'upgraded' to the later spindles because I'm an inveterate fiddler, wanted it to look correct as a K6, not because I was seriously worried that the wheels would fall off.

    After all, my CB600, which is a tad quicker than my 175, doesn't have any locking devices on the spindle nuts, you just have to ensure that they are done up tight. OK, pinch bolts on the 600 front axle would probably stop the wheel falling off, but you get my drift.
    1970 Honda CB175K4
    1972 Honda CL175K7
    1999 Honda CB600 Hornet
    1970 - 1972 Random heap of CB/CL/SL 175 parts, slowly being reassembled ..

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