The 175 has more HP......The 200 is more "tractable" and has "gentler/smoother power delivery" so is a better "beginner bike"....

(Same mistake they made with the 500T to replace the "hotter" 450)

The factor is R squared x Pi.... The following is based on the "equivalent venturi size" as the openings are actually oval, not round...

Yours With D=16, R=8......=64 Pi

CB200 With D=18, R=9......=81 Pi

CB175 With D=20, R=10... =100 PI

.....64/81=.790 or 21% smaller portal...=26.58% increase in air velocity

As air velocity increases, so does the 'pull" on the liquid fuel through the jets.....

Since the idle jetting is adjustable to some extent, the stock 38 should still work,(although I'd try a #35) but as the slide opens,due to the increased velocity, the main jet "feeds" like a larger jet due to the increased "pull" on it....Just from the raw numbers, you are going to want to reduce that by ~ the 20% in size as well, and tweek it from there.....

This is why the CB200 (18mm carb and 81 Pi) runs an 88 main while the CB175 (20mm carb and 100 Pi) runs a 98 main....Yet both have 38 pilots....

Calculating main jet open areas gives .1936 Pi sq MM for the 88, and the 98 has .2401 Pi sq mm......

( 1936/2401= 80.63%, or approximately the difference in throat area proportions as 80.63% is close to the 81% throat area difference)

Based on rough calculations, you will need a 38 pilot and a 70 or 72.5 main, (I'd get 35 pilots as well, and 70, 72.5, and 75 jets, a box of plugs, and work from richer to leaner).....

Are these the carbs you purchased?

1969-1973 Honda CB175 Carburetor Carb
I have been told they are bolt-on and run..... Have not tried myself, but considering a set......

A pair of carbs for only about $20 more than you will be spending on jets and plugs to maybe get yours right......Something to consider......