Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!
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Thread: Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!

  1. #1
    Junior Member NerdNinja's Avatar
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    Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!

    Alright, I need to get a log started before I loose track of what I'm going to be doing so here goes!

    But first a little history,
    Last 4th of July I picked myself up a fair condition 1973 CB450 k5 for 500 smacka'roos!
    Got the thing home and tinkered with it a but and got it to run! and that's about the only Good thing that's happend with it

    To make a long story short, the thing idled at 3k and I messed up the clutch so it wouldn't disengage.... road it anyway
    So after not dying on this contraption and fast forward most of the winter when I couldn't work on it, I finally got time and money now so I'm in a mad dash to get it roaring by the time the snow is gone.

    So to make my life easier I decided to tear the engine apart Going to replace some gaskets and take a peek while I'm in there.

    So my quick question for you guys is, what should I look for as far as wear and tear and how will I know what needs to be replaced? I'm hoping to not have to dive into the top end but how will I know if I need to?
    I'll post pictured as soon as I have it apart but for now here's some from when I got it to where it is now

    Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!-img_20180701_103129.jpg Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!-img_20180701_103136.jpg Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!-img_20180701_103141.jpg Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!-img_20180701_103147.jpg Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!-img_20180701_103549.jpg
    Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!-img_20190326_115105.jpg Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!-img_20190326_115113.jpg

  2. #2
    Senior Member ancientdad's Avatar
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    Welcome - and love those bar-backs. Actually, nah... but anyway, nice introduction. One of the Mods can move it to the proper place, or let a project log be your intro (but at least you did one!). And speaking of projects, you certainly have a good one going. Plenty of help here for the DOHC twins, so good luck and enjoy. BTW, you passed the first test - pictures
    Tom

    Ride along at the drag strip - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20jFPazXlvU



    running points... because I'm too old for mysteries that begin with pushing

  3. #3
    Senior Member budlite282's Avatar
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    Welcome, and nice build you got going.

    I kinda wanted some bar-backs, but those look like they are too far back.

    I'm in the same boat with getting something to ride.
    "If it ain't raining, I'm riding......"

    Work in process:::::

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  5. #4
    Super Moderator J-T's Avatar
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    As far as the engine goes, if it runs well, doesn't use/leak oil, has good compression, and doesn't make bad noises, I'd leave it alone. If it has good compression but doesn't run well your focus should go to the ignition and fuel systems. For the rest of it:

    https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/53...-old-bike.html
    JT
    81 CM400T Under re-construction
    82 GL500

  6. #5
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    For one thing, your forks are on backwards..... The disc goes on the bike's left side.... oil drains go to the rear of the sliders....Tire bias is now incorrect for stopping the bike.....
    This also means your fender is showing its bottom rear to the front of the bike.... Cable/hose loops and guides in the wrong places have already allowed the speedo cable to be bent and damaged...Speedo either spins backwards or not at all.....
    It is also missing a CRITICAL spacing washer within the bridge clamp on the left...This can allow over-torquing of that incorrect bolt and crack the bridge (which are getting scarce)......
    KnucleBusting360 likes this.
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
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  7. #6
    Junior Member NerdNinja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ancientdad View Post
    Welcome - and love those bar-backs. Actually, nah... but anyway, nice introduction. One of the Mods can move it to the proper place, or let a project log be your intro (but at least you did one!). And speaking of projects, you certainly have a good one going. Plenty of help here for the DOHC twins, so good luck and enjoy. BTW, you passed the first test - pictures
    First test? Woo! I think this will suffice as an intro. It's been a minute since I've been a forum user. Thanks for the welcome!

    Quote Originally Posted by budlite282 View Post
    Welcome, and nice build you got going.

    I kinda wanted some bar-backs, but those look like they are too far back.

    I'm in the same boat with getting something to ride.
    Not to sure what bar backs are... I'm guessing handlebars? This is how I got it and I think they're actually comfortable.

    Quote Originally Posted by J-T View Post
    As far as the engine goes, if it runs well, doesn't use/leak oil, has good compression, and doesn't make bad noises, I'd leave it alone. If it has good compression but doesn't run well your focus should go to the ignition and fuel systems. For the rest of it:

    https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/53...-old-bike.html
    Leaks a little but of oil so I'm going in after the seals. As far as compression goes... well look a bit down.. Thanks for the link!

    Quote Originally Posted by 66Sprint View Post
    For one thing, your forks are on backwards..... The disc goes on the bike's left side.... oil drains go to the rear of the sliders....Tire bias is now incorrect for stopping the bike.....
    This also means your fender is showing its bottom rear to the front of the bike.... Cable/hose loops and guides in the wrong places have already allowed the speedo cable to be bent and damaged...Speedo either spins backwards or not at all.....
    It is also missing a CRITICAL spacing washer within the bridge clamp on the left...This can allow over-torquing of that incorrect bolt and crack the bridge (which are getting scarce)......
    I'll look into the forks! Thanks.

    ONWARD WITH THE PROJECT LOG

    Alright, before I get ahead of myself here..

    I did the compression test on the bench and this is what I got. The lower number is before adding oil and the left Cylinder ones have my hand making an L.

    Leak down test was... in conclusive. I didn't have an extra set of hands and couldn't hold the engine at TDC.

    Before continuing what do you guys think? I think I should still go through and replace seals, and just keep the head intact, maybe clean the valves best I can without removing them. Get a few hundred miles on the thing then test again.

    Also I can't seem to find a master link on my CAM chain?

    Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!-img_20190415_221017.jpg Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!-img_20190416_104019.jpg
    Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!-img_20190415_221323.jpg Get This Damn Thing on the Road Already!!-img_20190416_104803.jpg

    (Sorry for upside down picture... Windows is dumb

  8. #7
    Senior Member ancientdad's Avatar
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    Bar backs are those things bolted to the original handlebar mounts that move the bars back further with a set of handlebar mounts built in them, kinda like the back-setting version of risers that make the bars higher. Keep them at your own risk.

    When the smartest guy on this forum tells you the forks are on backwards, you should listen. The spacing washer he's talking about is a D-shaped washer that fits in the gap where the upper triple clamps around your fork tube, and without it it's easy to overtighten the bolt clamping the upper tube in the top bridge (upper triple) resulting in that side breaking off, and that would mean you'd probably need to get the top bridge welded to repair it as good used ones are damn near unobtainium. Stop looking for the conventional "master" link in your cam chain, the 450/500T uses a staked master link that looks only slightly different than one of the other links... it can be found, of course, but it won't jump out at you as obvious.

    Windows 10 is dumber than Windows 7 with pictures uploaded to here, but here's some info as to why it happens

    https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/25...ml#post1008568
    Tom

    Ride along at the drag strip - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20jFPazXlvU



    running points... because I'm too old for mysteries that begin with pushing

  9. #8
    Junior Member NerdNinja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66Sprint View Post
    For one thing, your forks are on backwards..... The disc goes on the bike's left side.... oil drains go to the rear of the sliders....Tire bias is now incorrect for stopping the bike.....
    This also means your fender is showing its bottom rear to the front of the bike.... Cable/hose loops and guides in the wrong places have already allowed the speedo cable to be bent and damaged...Speedo either spins backwards or not at all.....
    It is also missing a CRITICAL spacing washer within the bridge clamp on the left...This can allow over-torquing of that incorrect bolt and crack the bridge (which are getting scarce)......
    Quote Originally Posted by ancientdad View Post
    Bar backs are those things bolted to the original handlebar mounts that move the bars back further with a set of handlebar mounts built in them, kinda like the back-setting version of risers that make the bars higher. Keep them at your own risk.

    When the smartest guy on this forum tells you the forks are on backwards, you should listen. The spacing washer he's talking about is a D-shaped washer that fits in the gap where the upper triple clamps around your fork tube, and without it it's easy to overtighten the bolt clamping the upper tube in the top bridge (upper triple) resulting in that side breaking off, and that would mean you'd probably need to get the top bridge welded to repair it as good used ones are damn near unobtainium. Stop looking for the conventional "master" link in your cam chain, the 450/500T uses a staked master link that looks only slightly different than one of the other links... it can be found, of course, but it won't jump out at you as obvious.

    Windows 10 is dumber than Windows 7 with pictures uploaded to here, but here's some info as to why it happens

    https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/25...ml#post1008568
    I'm looking into the forks now. I'm not fully understanding what washer and oil drain placements You're talking about though. What picture did you see it in? And could you show me a correct picture?

    And just to clarify, the last guy had the things on backwards and I saw it on the tire 😆

  10. #9
    Senior Member ancientdad's Avatar
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    Imagine if you took both forks (as they are currently on the bike) out of the upper and lower clamps, put the left one on the right side and the right one on the left side... then they would be correct. The fork oil drain bolts are supposed to be at the back of the outer side of the lower legs, not in the front, and that would put your caliper bracket back on the left side of the front end as it was delivered from the factory
    Tom

    Ride along at the drag strip - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20jFPazXlvU



    running points... because I'm too old for mysteries that begin with pushing

  11. #10
    Junior Member NerdNinja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ancientdad View Post
    Imagine if you took both forks (as they are currently on the bike) out of the upper and lower clamps, put the left one on the right side and the right one on the left side... then they would be correct. The fork oil drain bolts are supposed to be at the back of the outer side of the lower legs, not in the front, and that would put your caliper bracket back on the left side of the front end as it was delivered from the factory
    Alright, sounds easy enough. What about that washer? And can I get it at a hardware store it does it need to be ordered?

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