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Thread: K0 CL350 project

  1. #51
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83XLX View Post
    His carbs don't look like those early square-float carbs.
    Mine are round float models.
    On another note, could not contain myself and I hope I was not ripped off but found and purchase the stock exhaust setup for the 68-69 modelshttps://classicjapanesemotorcycles.c...k0-k1-sku-5287

    Project costs: $5431K0 CL350 project-5287_cl350_exhausst_16_1024x1024.jpg
    Last edited by f100owner; 04-17-2019 at 01:47 PM.

  2. #52
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Started some reassembly this afternoon. Did the idle sync on the carbs and then installed them, along with air filters and covers.
    Wiring doesn't look as bad as thought. Did solder some splices. Is reconnecting my wiring as simple as matching up colors? Sort of looks that way.
    Put bucket on. Realized I will need to find or fashion a grommet for the opening where the wires come through.
    Got a message from my exhaust vendor confirming that purchase. Really looking forward to that install.
    Noticed most of the bolts are 10mm and those that are not seem to be even numbers.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    CL350K0
    2016 Harley Ultra Limited
    1971 Ford F100 Flareside (project)
    2016 Ford Expedition
    2018 Ford F150

  3. #53
    Senior Member 83XLX's Avatar
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    That's about the going rate for an early CL exhaust in that condition (when you can find one). Looks like a decent deal. Scrub the rust off with a ball of aluminum foil soaked in Coca-Cola. Sounds crazy, but it works. Here's a link to my post where I cleaned up a rusty one like yours.

    https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/53...0-exhaust.html
    1969 Honda CL350
    1983 H-D XLX-61 Sportster

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  5. #54
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83XLX View Post
    That's about the going rate for an early CL exhaust in that condition (when you can find one). Looks like a decent deal. Scrub the rust off with a ball of aluminum foil soaked in Coca-Cola. Sounds crazy, but it works. Here's a link to my post where I cleaned up a rusty one like yours.

    https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/53...0-exhaust.html
    Just read through the post, when I should be working. Looking forward to trying the coke-aluminum foil trick.
    Can you advise on mounting brackets for the stock cl exhaust. Are they built into the bike. not sure how it mounts. Just was excited to find a reasonably priced, reasonable appearing condition set.

  6. #55
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    On my mind regarding this bike:
    Charging system;
    Brakes;
    Engine - tune;
    valve adjustments;
    Other tune-related functions I have never done before - ie timing;
    drive chain adjustment (remember with my bikes a too tight chain would screw up bearings, I think);
    electrical system in general;
    cam chain adjustment.
    First I want to get it running (of course), but I want to get it running right and keep it that way.

  7. #56
    Senior Member 83XLX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by f100owner View Post
    Just read through the post, when I should be working. Looking forward to trying the coke-aluminum foil trick.
    Can you advise on mounting brackets for the stock cl exhaust. Are they built into the bike. not sure how it mounts. Just was excited to find a reasonably priced, reasonable appearing condition set.
    There are 3 brackets for that exhaust: 1) A long, contoured, 2-piece bracket that clamps both pipes and bolts to the swingarm pivot, 2) a small bracket that attaches to the top of the muffler and bolts to the top shock mount, and 3) a 2-piece frame clamp that bolts to the bracket on the back of the muffler. Here are a couple random pics that I have that may help.

    The rear half of #1 swung downward for air cleaner installation. #3 clamp visible on the diagonal frame rail (ignore the chrome bracket attached to it).
    K0 CL350 project-img_3081.jpg

    #2 bracket
    K0 CL350 project-top-mount.jpg
    1969 Honda CL350
    1983 H-D XLX-61 Sportster

  8. #57
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83XLX View Post
    There are 3 brackets for that exhaust: 1) A long, contoured, 2-piece bracket that clamps both pipes and bolts to the swingarm pivot, 2) a small bracket that attaches to the top of the muffler and bolts to the top shock mount, and 3) a 2-piece frame clamp that bolts to the bracket on the back of the muffler. Here are a couple random pics that I have that may help.

    The rear half of #1 swung downward for air cleaner installation. #3 clamp visible on the diagonal frame rail (ignore the chrome bracket attached to it).
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3081.jpg 
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ID:	279874

    #2 bracket
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Top Mount.jpg 
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ID:	279878
    I know I have the two-piece bracket near the air breather - it holds my existing exhaust on. Probably can fashion something for the rear bracket. Bracket #3 might be problematic.

  9. #58
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by f100owner View Post
    Noticed most of the bolts are 10mm and those that are not seem to be even numbers.
    There are very few 10mm bolts on your bike.... MOST of its fasteners are 6mm.....

    Metric fastener sizing is determined by the shank/threading diameter and thread pitch, NOT the wrench you use to remove/install it.....
    With your terminology it is likely to have a "12mm bolt" (actually an 8mm bolt ) mating to a 12, 13, or 14mm nut, ( as 8mm nuts commonly are available with those hex sizes)... To eliminate possible confusion, it helps if we all use the same terminology.......

    Note that when first switching from SAE to metric bits, many of us (myself included) made that same terminology error........
    Last edited by 66Sprint; 04-18-2019 at 10:25 AM.
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
    Contact info: E-mail; [email protected] Phone; 540-525-5199

  10. #59
    Senior Member 83XLX's Avatar
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    Bracket #3 is just a split P-clamp that goes around the round frame rail. A split P-clamp may be difficult to find, but a regular P-clamp will work if you spread it out enough to pass over the frame rail.

    K0 CL350 project-p-clamp.jpg
    1969 Honda CL350
    1983 H-D XLX-61 Sportster

  11. #60
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66Sprint View Post
    There are very few 10mm bolts on your bike.... MOST of its fasteners are 6mm.....

    Metric fastener sizing is determined by the shank/threading diameter and thread pitch, NOT the wrench you use to remove/install it.....
    With your terminology it is likely to have a "12mm bolt" (actually an 8mm bolt ) mating to a 12, 13, or 14mm nut, ( as 8mm nuts commonly are available with those hex sizes)... To eliminate possible confusion, it helps if we all use the same terminology.......

    Note that when first switching from SAE to metric bits, many of us (myself included) made that same terminology error........
    I guess it would have been better to say - about all you need to keep these bikes going are brains and a 10mm wrench or socket (:
    I have been getting familiar with metrics again. About the only metric I have used in a while was the 10mm wrench needed to change a battery on my Harley.
    I am also renewing my relationship with my favorite hardware store's bolt/nuts/fastener section.

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