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Thread: K0 CL350 project

  1. #31
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    IF you are restoring the bike you will need to find one of those cables with the switch built in......Good luck with that.....
    IF you simply want a functioning front brake switch but no "kill", then you really only need to replace your broken lower housing, swapping in the old switches......
    OR, a later unit with "kill" and brake switch can be used......
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
    Contact info: E-mail; [email protected] Phone; 540-525-5199

  2. #32
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    I appreciate you making this effort with me on this. If I want to use my new switch/perch, I need this cable if I want a front brake light control?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Honda-O...wAAOSwOAZZfiwk
    If I want to stay with my existing wiring, I will need to find a control or perch with the port for the switch? Now those, I have not been able to find. I am open to spending more money to get it done.

  3. #33
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66Sprint View Post
    IF you are restoring the bike you will need to find one of those cables with the switch built in......Good luck with that.....
    IF you simply want a functioning front brake switch but no "kill", then you really only need to replace your broken lower housing, swapping in the old switches......
    OR, a later unit with "kill" and brake switch can be used......
    I am not restoring the bike, per se.
    I want a functioning Scrambler that looks reasonably original. Something of a restomod.

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  5. #34
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    oh, I see. get this:
    https://www.common-motor.com/honda-d...um-brake-lever
    and just use my existing throttle/light controls?

  6. #35
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    You CAN, but then you'll need the bottom housing half from an early CB (so it's silver) OR you can excise the perch and file/polish the remainder from your existing lower housing...
    "I have a mind like a steel trap.....Old and rusty, of antiquated design, and hard to get stuff back out of...."
    Contact info: E-mail; [email protected] Phone; 540-525-5199

  7. #36
    Senior Member 83XLX's Avatar
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    I put a regular cable on mine and didn't worry about retaining a front brake light switch. Earlier '60s motorcycles didn't have them, so no big deal. If you're restoring one to concours condition, I suppose you'd need the $200 cable, though...

    FYI, the switch was moved to the housing on the K2 model. K0 and K1 had the switch as part of the cable.
    Last edited by 83XLX; 04-16-2019 at 08:13 AM.
    1969 Honda CL350
    1983 H-D XLX-61 Sportster

  8. #37
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83XLX View Post
    I put a regular cable on mine and didn't worry about retaining a front brake light switch. Earlier '60s motorcycles didn't have them, so no big deal. If you're restoring one to concours condition, I suppose you'd need the $200 cable, though...

    FYI, the switch was moved to the housing on the K2 model. K0 and K1 had the switch as part of the cable.
    Actually found a used cable for $19 with shipping on ebay from Bobco Vintage Cycle Parts. I ordered it. I can go original if I want. I am also verifying as to whether or not I am required to have a front brake light at the inspection station. The option to use an add-on perch with brake light switch is also on my mind and filing down the remnants of the broken perch. That's a $40 option.
    This evening, I will get back to setting up my carbs. Seeing what I can do about patching and reconnecting the wiring and fixing my headlamp bucket.
    I can't tell from my headlight, but is there anything special about it?

    K0 CL350 project-scrambler.cable.jpg
    83XLX likes this.

  9. #38
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Decided to proceed with k0 approach to the right hand controls. However, I made sure to remove the existing unit without damaging it any further. Installed the new unit fairly easily courtesy of silicone lubricant. Seems to work smoothly.
    Also replaced the top bushings on the rear shocks. Tried to install the side cover grommets, but no luck and no enthusiasm at that point.
    Should get the correct brake cable by Saturday.

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    Last edited by f100owner; 04-16-2019 at 07:57 PM.
    CL350K0
    2016 Harley Ultra Limited
    1971 Ford F100 Flareside (project)
    2016 Ford Expedition
    2018 Ford F150

  10. #39
    Senior Member f100owner's Avatar
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    Currently planning on my next step to be setting the idle sync on the carbs. Based on a video I watched, it appears to be basically using something thin (in my case a strand of brass wire), resetting the stop to where it is not touching, then adjusting it to where the piece of wire just slips free.
    Additionally plan to work on trying to hook up my wires again. The wiring diagram I found, while complete is challenging to read. Working on my light bucket is also on the list.
    Have completed one muffler repair - adding baffle material. Hope this works. Really don't want to use the long mufflers I ordered from Common and would like to send them back.
    Awaiting some rubber parts.
    Would really like to get it started in a day or two. But not sure how much of my wiring I need hooked up to make that happen. Know electric start (yes I can kick it, too), Any suggestions here would be appreciated.

  11. #40
    Senior Member 83XLX's Avatar
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    The wire deal is just to get the idle screws in exactly the same spot as the starting point. Adjust the throttle cables so the arm on each carb begins to rise at exactly the same time when you twist the throttle. It will never idle that way, though - you have to turn each screw in an equal amount from that point to get an acceptable idle before tuning the idle mixture.
    1969 Honda CL350
    1983 H-D XLX-61 Sportster

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