Finally got the pannier brackets off. They are going to a good home.
With the brackets off I was able to take the middle metal mudguard part off.
What is left is the third part of the rear mudguard system, made of plastic which has the toolbox attached to the top of it.
Held in place with this bolt.
And this nut underneath the mudguard, deeply recessed, very awkward to get to and welded onto its bolt with rust. Nice!
Rear footpegs are part of the crash bars so I need to source some replacements.
Condition of the metal looks bad but it's mainly bubbled up paint and surface rust. There may be a little pitting of the surface but with a little filler when finished it will be out of sight. I'll soon find out if there are any holes in it when I get my trusty wire brush out!
Last edited by james adams; 02-18-2018 at 09:58 AM.
Just been out again as it gets dark couldn't rest until I twirled a spanner one more time today. Took the rear crash bars off no trouble then sprayed every nut and bolt on the bike with penetrating oil and then sprayed all the rusted steel and oxidized aluminium I could find with WD40.
Well, I don't want it to rust MUCH more, do I?
Last edited by james adams; 02-18-2018 at 10:29 AM.
Been out spannering again. That nut holding my inner mudguard with the bad recess is no more. Note to oneself I must get some decent drill bits when funds allow! It took forever to drill half the head off. The rest was done with a cutting blade on a dremmel and a cold chisel. A bit of a heath robinson way of going about it but it worked!
Mudguard still won't come off it's held by some unseen object. So I had a look at this:-
A lot more wires than the CD. So I took it off anyway!
Last edited by james adams; 02-19-2018 at 10:39 AM.
James, instead of buying more drill bits, find yourself a cheap bench grinder if you don't already have one. It is pretty easy to grind a new point, once you learn how. Drill bits should be like the old wooden pencils we used to use. Don't throw them away till they are too short from repeated sharpening. You can also buy a drill point gauge that slips onto a 6 inch scale (ruler) to help you get it right.
It's hard to have too many motorcycles, but easy to have too many batteries and tires.
Plus a few non-Hondas
I didn't damage the frame metal but it did take a lot longer than it should have. I think I need to have a tidy-up of the garage then I might be able to put my hands on tools when I need them and not to have to keep on hunting for them!
So now I'm at this stage:
And I'm thinking "What have I done? Can this be put back correctly and work? Why am I doing this?" and lots more self-doubt.
Anyway, it's got to be de-populated of electrical objects so it can be de-rusted and painted. No pressure then!
I know these will cause problems:
Yes, the front brake calipers. Even though there's one each side, just like on the CX500 I had, they weren't very good at stopping from new and to overhaul them 20 years later or in my case this time 40 years down the road from new stripping them out is going to be a nightmare! The pistons will undoubtedly be corroded and seized in the calipers along with the bleed nipples as per the CX500 I had and require renewing along with all the seals. At £50 a caliper for the parts it'll have to wait. Master cylinder is £22 per overhaul kit so that can wait too.
So I'll keep on photographing, stripping, bagging and tagging until funds can be sneaked past the ever watchful eyes of the mrs who has earmarked said money for more frivolous things such as food and tea bags.Last edited by james adams; Today at 12:01 PM.
Put some spare change in the bank, by the time you get it cleaned up the interest should finance it. Joking aside I enjoy you posts. And I like the gold wheels, they remind me of old gp two stroke mags. You'll color em good I'm sure though.