1982 CB450 Won't Start Anymore
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Thread: 1982 CB450 Won't Start Anymore

  1. #1
    Junior Member KiloJoule's Avatar
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    1982 CB450 Won't Start Anymore

    I've been trying to troubleshoot as much as I can but am stuck and was hoping you guys could help!

    The problems first started after I went to start the bike and it wouldn't crank, which I assumed was a dead battery (it had only been about a week since I'd ridden it last but it has also been very cold). I saw online you can use jumper cables attached to a car, with the car off, which i did and got the bike running again. The next day I went to start it and it was dead again so I bought a battery charger but that showed the battery was good, and even after charging, wouldn't start. My suspicion now is that jump starting it could have damaged something.

    With the ignition switch on the lights will come on, but when I go to start it the starter solenoid doesn't even click. I just got a new starter solenoid, suspecting that was the problem, but installing it has made no difference. My friend recommended the sketchy way of starting it by bridging the terminals of the starter solenoid with a screwdriver which was able to get the engine to turn over.

    I've checked my fuses and they are all good.

    Next I checked resistances and got the following results:

    CDI Power Source: Standard 85 ohms, Actual 82 ohms.
    Advanced Pickup Sensor: Standard 135 ohms, Actual 1000 ohms.
    Primary Pickup Coil: Standard: 207 ohms, Actual 0 ohms.

    Primary Coil: Standard less than 1 ohms, Actual around 0.5 ohm.

    Run/Kill Switch
    Ignition On, Kill Off: Standard zero, Actual ~8.5 - 10 M ohms
    Ignition On, Kill On: Standard infinite, Actual ~8.5 - 10 M ohms (turning the kill switch on or off has no effect).
    Ignition Off: Standard zero, Actual zero.

    Also tried removing the black wire with white stripe from the kill switch which supposedly bypasses that grounding, but it had no effect.


    What would you guys recommend I do next? I don't have a lot of experience with electronics so I'm sorry if any of this is off or the problem is obvious haha. Thanks!
    Last edited by KiloJoule; 12-30-2016 at 08:38 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member doode's Avatar
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    Wow, you've done a lot of troubleshooting!
    Does your headlight go out when you push the starter button? Maybe it's dirty and not making contact?

    Edit: also, double check all your electrical connections are clean. What DCV does your battery read at rest? What does it read when you turn the ignition on? What does it read when you push the starter button and apply the brake?
    Last edited by doode; 12-30-2016 at 09:39 PM.

  3. #3
    Junior Member KiloJoule's Avatar
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    I've tried haha! The headlight does dim when I push the starter, and the battery reads a little over 12v. Should I focus cleaning connections coming out of the cdi? Could it be an issue with that and I need to replace the cdi?

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  5. #4
    Senior Member doode's Avatar
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    Should focus on the solenoid first.
    So if your headlight dims when you pres the button, then the button seems to work. No click would indicate solenoid not hooked up correctly, or defective. When you bypass the starter button and hook the battery up straight to the solenoid, does it click?

  6. #5
    Super Moderator longdistancerider's Avatar
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    There are 2 small wires connected to the solenoid. Yellow/Red which is the power input to trigger the solenoid when the starter button is pushed and there's a Green/??? that is the ground circuit for the solenoid that grounds through the neutral switch or thru the clutch safety switch on the clutch lever to allow starting in gear with the clutch pulled. There is also a silicon diode found under the left side cover, small little box with 2 wires attached and usually hiding behind the panel, that has to be there or there's no ground circuit.
    Jim O'Brien
    1979 CM400T "road bike" modified for travelling
    1978 CB400T1 restored
    1972 CL350 survivor restoration

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  7. #6
    Super Moderator J-T's Avatar
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    In addition to the above, the entire ignition system is completely separate from the rest of the electrical system. The starter is part of the battery powered electrical system, not the ignition system.

    Your headlight should go completely out when you press the start button. It sounds like your start button is not completely disconnecting the headlight circuit and is not making the circuit to the solenoid.
    JT
    81 CM400T Under re-construction
    82 GL500

  8. #7
    Junior Member KiloJoule's Avatar
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    Alright so I've done some more tinkering. The battery voltage at rest is about 12.28 V, with ignition on about 11.9V and with starter pressed about 12.08 V. I took apart the push start and kill switch and cleaned the contacts which were a little greasy. I looked at the voltage for the two wires coming in to the solenoid from the starter and ground, and when I engage the push start the voltage goes to about 11.9V. Coupled with the engine turning over when I bridge the terminals on the solenoid, does this mean the solenoid, a brand new one, is broken? It seems like its getting the voltage and down stream everything is working. The diode and everything is there on the other side, the bike ran fine for almost two years since I've had it until this.
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  9. #8
    Senior Member dtsmjr8dan's Avatar
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    You need a new battery if that one won't hold a charge above 12.6v at rest. The battery will be too weak.
    1979 CM400T (rider),
    1981 CM400T (in surgery receiving transplant)
    1982 CM450 (parts bike)
    1982 CB450 (parts bike)
    Past rides: Vincents, Triumph, BSA's, Suzuki's, Twingle, Corgy, others.
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  10. #9
    Super Moderator longdistancerider's Avatar
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    The solenoid has to have a ground in order to work. Use your VOM set on Volts. Disconnect the 2 small wires from the solenoid. Connect one side of the VOM to the positive battery terminal and the other to the Green wire connection coming out of the harness. In neutral you should see battery voltage, select a gear and the voltage should go away. While in gear pull the clutch lever and voltage should return. These are the grounding circuits for the solenoid.
    Now connect your VOM to the Negative battery terminal and the Yellow w/Red coming out of the harness. No voltage present until you push the starter button and then you should see battery voltage.
    The switches you took apart that had grease needed to have new dielectric grease added to them.
    J-T likes this.
    Jim O'Brien
    1979 CM400T "road bike" modified for travelling
    1978 CB400T1 restored
    1972 CL350 survivor restoration

    SALE IS ACTIVE TILL 200 SHIRTS SOLD T-shirt sales supporting 66Sprint's Land Speed Record Build http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/22-...d-attempt.html

    http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/22-...d-attempt.html and http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/1-p...r-attempt.html
    Road Trip http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/11-...here-i-go.html or "where's Jim now?"
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  11. #10
    Junior Member KiloJoule's Avatar
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    Both of those tests work, resting battery is 12.3V. Vom connected to positive battery terminal and green wire floats between 350 mV or less in gear and 10.9 V in neutral. Engaging the clutch has no effect when in gear, which i know from riding it previously ive always needed to be in neutral to start it. Vom connected to negative battery terminal and yellow wire is close to 0 V, and with starter pressed is 12.17 V.

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