Anyone Install a Cappellini Oil Pump and External Line? HELP!
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Thread: Anyone Install a Cappellini Oil Pump and External Line? HELP!

  1. #1
    Senior Member Finnigan's Avatar
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    Anyone Install a Cappellini Oil Pump and External Line? HELP!

    Hey everyone, I'm in the middle of finishing the oil pump and external oil line on my cb450. I've figured out the majority of the install except a few footnotes at the bottom of the instructions that says

    "if you use external oil line remember to close the original oil passage in the upper crankcase"

    "Close also the oil passage in the head so to avoid the oil remain around the cylinder head"

    and finally

    "The diameter of the oil passage in the cylinder head are different, take note so that you may make them the same on the exhaust and intake cams"

    Anyone know exactly what he's talking about? If I close off the oil holes in the crankcase how will the oil get back down?

    Any help would be appreciated!

  2. #2
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    What you are shutting "off" is BOTH ends of BOTH stud passages, (at the base-gasket orifices, and at the head covers) so you do NOT have a column of non-moving oil just "sitting in them and cooking" (and hence super-heating) OR a "wrong directional" way for the oil to travel back to the bottom end without going through the cams, and oiling the top end....
    The "sizing" differences noted are so you still "proportion" the flow so both cams get fed appropriately, and neither "starves" for oiling.....(This is done by the bore size in the banjo bolts themselves)
    This is easier to explain in detail by phone..... 540-525-5199....Steve
    Last edited by 66Sprint; 08-19-2015 at 10:55 AM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Finnigan's Avatar
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    Thanks but I'm unable to chat right now. I've found a diagram to help clear it up. I guess my main thought was I didn't realize the oil would go back down to the dump via the cam chain channel
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone Install a Cappellini Oil Pump and External Line?  HELP!-image.jpg  

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  5. #4
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    Sort-of, but NO.....You still MUST have oil flow to the upper crankcase "pocket" so it can get to the crank and transmission bearings....

  6. #5
    Senior Member Finnigan's Avatar
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    So plug the vertical facing holes but leave the channel facing horizontal?

  7. #6
    Sensei 66Sprint's Avatar
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    You MUST STILL provide oiling to every passage in the engine BUT the ones you are replacing with the external lines..... The "original" passages the lines replace must then be blocked at both ends so they don't divert any of the new flow away from its intended path or destination, and you don't alter the proportioning of flow to the various parts of the engine (unless you KNOW what you are doing, and why, and what effects it will have overall) ....

    IF you understand the SYSTEM, you should now have all the information you need....
    Last edited by 66Sprint; 08-20-2015 at 09:24 AM.

  8. #7
    Senior Member Flugtechnik's Avatar
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    I am getting ready to install external oil lines on my 450 similar to Finnigan's and wanted to make sure I do it correctly. It looks I should close the passages leading to the studs at the bottom and the top as I've shown in the pics below.

    What is the best way to "close" these passages?

    Anyone Install a Cappellini Oil Pump and External Line?  HELP!-img_4223.jpgAnyone Install a Cappellini Oil Pump and External Line?  HELP!-img_4225.jpg

  9. #8
    Senior Member Zeek's Avatar
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    A few guys on the FB group have done this...I'll post it over there.

  10. #9
    Super Moderator frogman79's Avatar
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    IF it was me doing it, I would drill and tap each hole and use threaded Allen plugs with thread locker AND stake them in place. I don't trust JB weld or some other epoxy for that.
    Franz >>> 450 build >>>360 Build

  11. #10
    Senior Member Flugtechnik's Avatar
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    I just wanted to follow up with how I ended up plugging these passages in case anyone else goes down this road in the future.

    First I drilled the passages in the upper case out to the proper size for an M6 tap. I did not drill all the way through, but probably 3/4 of the way through. I then tapped the holes with an M6 tap. Since I didn't drill all the way through, the smaller metering passages are still intact and I can reverse this mod later if I want. I then inserted some really short M6 set screws (5mm long) with a generous amount of red loctite. Now, when the cylinder is installed, even if the loctite lets go, the set screws are trapped between the cylinder and the lower part of the hole which is not drilled out.






    Then I drilled out the two passages in the cylinder head. Again I tapped them for an M6 thread and inserted the set screws with a generous helping of red loctite. Again this is reversible. These set screws will be trapped by the cylinder head bolt on one side and the Cam Cover on the other. Because the set screws are so short, they do not protrude into the cylinder head bolt hole and will not interfere with installation.




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