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Thread: SL350 Running Issues

  1. #11
    Super Moderator outobie's Avatar
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    PoinT gap is not critical so long as it's close

    point timing is apsolutely critical

    get the shop manual on tuning thenignition

    ditch the meter and use a light or even better a strobe


    In addition to your obvious timing issue you are likely loosing spark somewhere as well.

    typical places are:

    bad plugs
    bad connections between high tension lead and plug boot
    arcing points on poinTs cover
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  2. #12
    Member LEGION's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by outobie View Post
    get the shop manual on tuning thenignition

    ditch the meter and use a light or even better a strobe


    In addition to your obvious timing issue you are likely loosing spark somewhere as well.

    typical places are:

    bad plugs
    bad connections between high tension lead and plug boot
    arcing points on poinTs cover
    I am using the factory service manual.

    Both contact breakers open precisely at their corresponding F and LF mark. I cranked the engine over a dozen times and verified this. Just as the photos show.

    What good would a light be versus testing continuity? It's simply playing a tone when the breakers are connected and stops when they open. A timing light (what I assume you're calling Strobe) would be of no use when the engine doesn't run correct?

    What makes this an "obvious timing issue"?

    I've tested for any improper grounds and all the way back to the ignition plug there is no grounded wires. Everything is grounded when the key is off, then goes away when the key turns on. Ignition coils look to be brand new. Spark plugs are brand new and gapped according to the service manual.

    Spark plug boots appear brand new. I even clipped the end off the wire and screwed the ends back into the wire to be sure it had a good connection.

    Is it possible to install any of this stuff backwards? Or perhaps the spark advancer is improperly installed? I think there is something fundamentally off here.
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    2007 Kawasaki KLR 650

  3. #13
    Senior Member Simo's Avatar
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    Have you checked the non firing side doesn't have a fouled plug? just getting power to the plug doesn't mean it's actually sparking at the gap
    New plugs don't actually mean good.
    Last edited by Simo; 05-19-2017 at 09:56 PM.
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  5. #14
    Member LEGION's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simo View Post
    Have you checked the non firing side doesn't have a fouled plug? just getting power to the plug doesn't mean it's actually sparking at the gap
    That is on my list to remove the plug and watch for a visual spark. I verified they are the correct plugs from the manual and the gap is to spec. I'm really wondering if the spark advancer is on backwards. I'm going to remove the points plate and verify that.

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    1980 Honda CM200
    2007 Kawasaki KLR 650

  6. #15
    Member LEGION's Avatar
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    I'm planning to follow this guy very carefully tomorrow morning.



    In addition, I'm going to remove the points plate and verify this is installed correctly.

    1980 Honda CM200
    2007 Kawasaki KLR 650

  7. #16
    Member LEGION's Avatar
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    Update.

    I checked the spark advancer and it looks correct. The mark on the front lines 180 degrees from the key on the shaft. According to the second video I put in my previous post, that should be correct (read the comments. The guy said his was backwards in the video).

    Next I set the points precisely. Exactly as the first video described. Spark happens at exactly the F and LF marks of the corresponding compression strokes. Reinstalled the spark plugs and the bike STILL won't run. Starting fluid has no effect. Choke on/off has no effect. I reinstalled both filters and airboxes and that had no effect. I am keeping the battery on a charger just to be sure it's charged.

    I'm going to grab a shim gauge from work with finer shims so I can check the valve clearances properly but I have little hope that will fix it.

    I'm really tired of this bike.
    helo75 likes this.
    1980 Honda CM200
    2007 Kawasaki KLR 650

  8. #17
    Member LEGION's Avatar
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    Spark plugs look like this. The darker one came from the side that used to actually run. They are NGK B-8ES with the resistance cap removed from the top so it's just a threaded rod on top.

    1980 Honda CM200
    2007 Kawasaki KLR 650

  9. #18
    Senior Member Simo's Avatar
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    Have you confirmed they spark? The right one looks suspect enough that I'd put new ones in, especially if your having issue ,$5 to eliminate fouled plugs from the equation...
    Also the tops are just a fitting not the resistor , the resistor is internal
    SL350 Running Issues-images.jpg
    B8es don't have any ( added) resistance , the 5kohm Resistor is in the lead cap ( you should check the lead caps as they tend to gain resistance over time.
    BR8es are the Resistor plugs, you can use them but only if the lead cap is non resistance , otherwise you'll have 10kohm or more of resistance
    Last edited by Simo; 05-20-2017 at 01:44 PM.
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  10. #19
    Member LEGION's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simo View Post
    Have you confirmed they spark? The right one looks suspect enough that I'd put new ones in
    I'm about to verify the valve clearances so I'll remove the spark plugs and visually look for a spark just to be sure. Inline spark tester shows a good consistent spark on both sides.
    1980 Honda CM200
    2007 Kawasaki KLR 650

  11. #20
    Junior Member turnsleft's Avatar
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    My 71 SL 350 was doing kinda the same thing, left side exhaust was around 450degs and the right was 112degs. put in a new batt and it seemed to run
    pert good for a bit then again running on the left side with backfires coming from the right side. It would free rev but not move the bike very well?
    I set the point gap and was wondering if the slides were swamped around as I couldn't get the idle speed to go up by turning the idle screw in or out.
    Any the[one of] problem turned out to be the throttle cables were not timed. The left bank was speeding up and pulling the right side. I set them about 1/8"
    of slack and took it for a ride best it has run, no back~fire at all. My 72 SL does the same thing[not so bad tho] so going to play with the 72 Monday.

    Some thing to check any way.
    Last edited by turnsleft; 05-20-2017 at 01:51 PM.

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