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greger said:
Hi, Thanks for posting this rebuild info and great pics!! I am new to the forum and planning to tackle a CL350 motor rebuild. This thread will help me a bunch as this will be a first time for me (I am a biology teacher not a mechanic). I have been a little nervous about getting started but I like to try and learn new things. This bike sat in a shed for many years here in Central Florida so I am not sure what I am in for. Cheers! Greg
Start spraying all nut/bolts and screews early on many times, PB Blaster has worked good for me. Broken bolts make a longer project out of it. A inpact driver is recomended for phillips screews especially.
 

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Discussion starter · #62 ·
If you are going to rebuild your engine... I just received my cylinders back from Bore-Tech for my third SL350 rebuild and I must say that those guys do a beautiful job. This is the third set of cylinders they've bored and honed for me and I highly recommend you look into having them do your cylinders as well.

On each of my bikes, I've measured the cylinder bores and while they were close to nominal for a standard bore, it's no doubt that the bores would be oversize by a couple of thousandths by the time I had honed all of the rust marks and pitting out of the walls. maybe a couple thousandths too large on the diameter would be OK, but the cylinders are also probably out of round, so I believe it's best to spend the $130 plus shipping to have them bored.

Likely there's a machine shop near you that can do the work, but I like Bore-Tech because they know the Honda 350 motor, they are fast (2 weeks is normal from door to door) and they sell all of the new engine parts I want and yesterday I got a gasket set from them and they included the SL350-specific gaskets at no charge! I love these guys!

I bought a cylinder bore and hone, new pistons and rings (comes with pin and new circlips), gaskets and shipping from Seattle to Ohio and back for $350. In my opinion, it's worth it.

Jim
 
Actually, there are no Philips head screws on the Japanese Motorcycles.

They are JIS.

A standard Philips Head Screwdriver actually damages the head of a JIS screw, that is why the strip so easily. A real JIS head screw driver is actually unlikely to strip the screw driver head. If the screw is stuck, the JIS will snap the head off without stripping it. It is a better mechanical connection.


Look Here for the low down on cross head screws: http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/?ALLSTEPS

You can get JIS bits for an impact or regular type screwdriver here:

http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/impact/view-all-products.html

You can get just the replacement bits for the 2400 model for $10 or so. the bits are 5/16 hex drive, which is a common size for the impact drivers that are somewhat less expensive then the vessel one. The bits are the important part
 
Jphoenix said:
30x60 should be fine. I am spoiled, I have a 24" deep workbench running the length of the garage, and then some - maybe 20 feet long - then it turns left and is 36" deep for another six feet. There are times when every square inch is covered with a disassembled SL350. Other times like now, when only half is covered with new, cleaned, painted or re-plated parts. Almost time for re-assembly :D I have old kitchen cabinets on two other walls with stuff in them and shelves below with tools, supplies and more stuff.

Maybe someone should start a garage/shop thread!

Jim
Made one a post yesterday on it
 
great info Mydlyfkryzis. I am a mechanical engineer and regularly do bolt and screw design but I never knew the difference between these drive types. Also, instructables is an awesome site. I combined some articles from there to build a 6v shunting voltage regulator, turn signal flasher, and led headlight driver for my cb125.
 
Well success so far dismantling the motor following your directions. This motor (CL 350) definitely needed a going thru! I have found metal shavings in the oil near the oil pump screen. Very crispy piston heads. And two badly worn rocker arms. Can a Noob at this ask a question? I know that I will have to replace the cam chain rollers but the chain looks ok. How do I know that it isn't? Thanks, Greg
 
Discussion starter · #68 ·
You can hold the chain horizontally and see how much it droops, but you need to compare it to a good one. New chains are tight. How many miles on the motor?

My engines all had more than 9000 miles on them, so I just spend the money because a failed chain costs a lot more than a new chain, I paid $35 for a Tsubaki cam chain, eBay. I consider them expendable, just like the cam belt on my Volvo.

Jim
 
My case bolts look much worse than yours. Curious if I should reuse them, replace them with OEM Honda if available or with allen heads if I can find them. The anti-seize is ready. I really don't want to reuse them but I do want to keep my rebuild costs down as I am wanting to ride and not show.

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Mine looked as bad. Wire brushed them, used anti-seize. They will be fine. They are not as tight as the cylinder bolts holding the head on, so they don't overstretch much. If you over-torque them, you will probably strip the case threads first.
 
I soaked them in vinegar and it turned them dark grey but they were clean. I soaked them in water to get the vinegar off them wiped dry and spray with WD-40. They are in a baggie now waiting for me to figure out how to put the cases back together.
 
Discussion starter · #74 ·
No alignment, just drop the ball in, spring in the cap, lockwasher and tighten it down. Check for proper shifting by running the shifter through its range while turning the input shaft. It will be working just fine!

Nice job!

Jim
 
Thanks again for the info on this thread. I have ordered a new cam chain and parts I need to clean up the top end. I am now working up the courage to crack the cases. I am a little concerned about what will be the important items to check for wear. But I am more concerned with getting things back together correctly. The transmission gears, shift drum and forks look daunting in your photos to say the least. Greg
 
Damn! I just spent a few minutes reading some posts about cams for these bikes and have now realized I just bought the wrong one for my rebuild. I wasn't sure about the difference between a "late" model cam and "older" cam and the fact that each has matching rockers, sprocket, and etc. It seems the change occurred during the 1971 production. The engine I have has the late model cam with the "312" rockers and sprocket. But the cam I ordered over the phone is the older one. Crap I am such a NOOOB.
 
greger said:
Thanks again for the info on this thread. I have ordered a new cam chain and parts I need to clean up the top end. I am now working up the courage to crack the cases. I am a little concerned about what will be the important items to check for wear. But I am more concerned with getting things back together correctly. The transmission gears, shift drum and forks look daunting in your photos to say the least. Greg
If you don't need to replace the chain, you don't need to crack the cases. Even if you need to do a new chain, SOME people have used the old chain, split it, link on a new split chain, and fed the new chain around. But a lot do not recommend ever splitting a camchain. I split my cases cause I needed a new seal on the sprocket, but kept my camchain cause it measured like new and had no rust or kinks (probably was replaced already).
 
Thanks for putting up with my nood questions and rant. The cam and right side rockes were worn very badly so I am wanting to replace the cam chain since it has probably been damaged as well. Also, having found some metal shavings in the oil I think I should take a look in the cases for possible damage too. I am on a learning mission as much as practical rebuild so will dive in and hope for the best.
 
Jphoenix said:
Karsten said:
Hello,
On my engine the pulley between the kickstart and the clutch is loose on its shaft. The inner diameter of the pulley is larger than the diameter of its shaft. So I am wondering, whether its supposed to be like this or whether a sleeve is missing?
The kick start idler gear is the achilles heel of this SL350 engine. The lucky CB350 does not have this gear. Unfortunately that means there are few replacements around. After opening up my K2, I found the idler gear bearing in the form of many shavings in the bottom of the sump, the gear rattling around on the shaft - probably similar to yours. I bought some bronze bearing stock from Mcmaster.com and was going to have the ID machined, but then I located a new one at David Silver spares for $48, so I bought it. They may have another, you'll want to check this part number 28221-340-000 at https://www.davidsilverspares.com/home/ Try the number without the dashes, sometimes they list the parts both ways.

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If your gear has chipped teeth (another common failure of this part) I have two spares that need a new bearing machined, but the teeth are very good. If you can't find a new spare, I'd be happy to send you one of mine, but you'll have to get a local machine shop to chuck them up in a lathe and turn the ID, should be cheap.

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I use VHT silver high heat spray paint from Wesco, then I bake the engine parts in the barbecue to cure the paint. Seems to be pretty resistant after that.

Jim
could you comment on the tolerances of the NOS idler gear...does it have any lateral play on the shaft...I've never seen a spec on this and have one that never exhibited any issues and the bronze bushing is intact but has a bit more play than I'd like...any idea what runout should be?

thanks.
 
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