Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ? - Page 3
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Thread: Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?

  1. #21
    Member Rod Fryatt's Avatar
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    Thought followers might like to see the material removed by my cutter.

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-dscf4525.jpg

    The wall thickness of the blind hole is about 3mm.

    Thank you for all your kind comments. I'm sure anyone with some basic skills could do the operation.
    I would advise using the best quality hole cutter you can get. Mine shed several groups of teeth by the time I'd finished. Possibly due in part to my trying to true it up by bending. It is made up from a ring of hard teeth welded to a softer steel cup. Best to remove any high spots by grinding. Do be sure to do a test cut before attacking the bike to make sure it is not cutting oversize.

  2. #22
    Member Rod Fryatt's Avatar
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    Seem to have posted twice somehow
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-dscf4525.jpg  
    Last edited by Rod Fryatt; 10-23-2016 at 11:36 AM. Reason: Seem to have posted twice somehow

  3. #23
    Junior Member eunsan's Avatar
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    1968 Sloper Rebuild

    Greetings from Vancouver, BC, where I recently bought a low mileage, somewhat damaged, but complete and rusty 1968 CL175, with a slightly frozen (now free) engine. At $ C 175 it was a decent purchase.

    The bike has kick starter only but the engine appears to be fitted to accept an electric starter. Perhaps they all were. I would like to add a starter, and am wondering if I can drop in the parts from a K3-K7.

    I have the opportunity to buy what appears to be a K3 engine that has both an electric starter and dual carbs. My bike has dual carbs.

    While playing with the engine, can it be fitted with a 5 speed gearset from K4 onward?

    Although my Sept 1967 shop manual (man-oh-man there are lots of variants of both the parts book and shop manual for the 175 series) says that mine is fitted with 6V, it is 12 V.

    I realize that if this is doable, I will need a solenoid, probably need to replace or modify the wiring harness. I am also restoring both 1967 CD125 and SS125 (retirement addiction), and have a spare R handlebar switch CW starter button.

    Any pushing and shoving will be truly appreciated.

    Gary Hawthorn
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-pa230003.jpg   Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-pa230002.jpg  
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  5. #24
    Member Rod Fryatt's Avatar
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    Time to close this thread as it is now finished and running. (I'm not one to rush anything.)

    Decided to give some details of the electrical conversion as some of it may be of interest to members. Apart from changing all the lamps to 12v of course, the only other part I changed was the flasher unit. The 6v one may have worked on 12v but I never liked the way it used to wait a second or more before lighting up so I fitted one of the new electronic units with variable speed control that can handle filaments or LED's. 99p from China post paid!

    The original 6v horn makes a very good sound so why change it? About 20 feet of thin insulated wire wound onto a former made a series resistor to cut the voltage down to about 7.

    The 6v coil draws 3 Amps on 6 volts so a 2 ohm resistor in series keeps that the same. Here I remembered the practice of some car makers and mounted a small 12v relay alongside the ballast resistor to short it out when the starter button is pressed, giving the coil full battery voltage. Result; a huge fat spark when cranking.

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-resistor2.jpg

    A Motobatt MBT9B4 fits the original battery cradle although it is somewhat deeper, by making an extension link it is possible to use the same strap with a longer bolt and a spacing tube.

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-battery-2.jpg

    Being a UK model there is no voltage regulator, I have linked the yellow/white alternator leads and and my installed voltmeter shows it is just able to hold its own with the lights on. There will be very little riding done until the spring at which time I intend to fit the CD200 stator as previously advised.
    Last edited by Rod Fryatt; 12-01-2016 at 07:12 AM.

  6. #25
    Supporting Member crazypj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard_Pitman View Post
    Rod,

    You have the engineering skills of a clock maker / repairer !

    I'm running a CB200 stator and rotor in my Cb175, timing marks altered to suit, along with a modern (Honda CB600) regulator rectifier wired directly, bypassing all the original wiring and voltage regulator, same as the mod proposed by Ferret, the UK electrics guru. Three wires from stator into reg rec, live and earth direct to battery from reg rec. Modern Motobatt AGM battery.
    You left the CD175 stator in... for now I am guessing?

    Although the AC voltage is over 30v at 4000rpm+ (RMS over 12v) it just doesn't seem up to the task for continued use at 12v and mine gave up after about 3 months of infrequent but high revs use, probably less than 300 miles and killed 2 batteries.
    I've found running all the outputs into a new R/R bypassing original wiring makes a huge difference to charging.
    That is real neat machining on crankcase, I know I would have stripped motor then mounted case in mill to bore hole
    I'm wondering, has anyone tried fitting some rare earth magnets into stock stator? It's easy enough to dril some holes then pein over ends to prevent them coming out due to centrifugal loads or maybe drillin through from back would work? Having MUCH stronger magnetic field should give better power output at lower rpm?
    BTW, real neat idea for LED in clear starter button
    Last edited by crazypj; 12-01-2016 at 09:01 AM.
    There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't
    I'm not a complete idiot, but, I'm working on it

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