Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ? - Page 2
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Thread: Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?

  1. #11
    Member Rod Fryatt's Avatar
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    Time to cut the hole. A powerful electric drill with a low gear and variable speed is essential. With the axis bar locked in position as shown. Using plenty of lubrication (I used a mixture of oil and paraffin) the boring tool is slipped over the bar and driven at about 100rpm with plenty of pauses for oiling and to let the drill cool down.
    Here is the start of the cut. The pictures tell all....

    Attachment 110994
    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-7.jpg

    Then, breakthrough

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-8.jpg

    I now had a nice smooth hole just a little too small to admit the starter motor nose.

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-9.jpg

    I then took up a hand scraper and slowly opened the hole until the starter nose was a close snug fit.

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-10.jpg

    To be continued....................................
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-9.jpg   Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-10.jpg  
    bilbikek411 likes this.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Richard_Pitman's Avatar
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    That is brilliant !

    I wish I'd thought about making a centralising hole before I set about a seized 175 piston using a hole saw, would have stopped me going off centre and damaging the cylinder bore.

    Looking forward to seeing this projects progression.
    1972 Honda CL175

    1999 Honda CB600 Hornet

  3. #13
    Member Rod Fryatt's Avatar
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    The CD175 rotor appears to be identical to the CD200 except for the timing marks. It is drilled and tapped to take a sprag clutch. But, as Simo rightly says the screws are incredibly tight on the 200 and locked. They may shift with the impact driver but it is never a good idea to bash anything involving a magnet so I have simply engraved the transposed marks on the 200 rotor and fitted the whole assembly.

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-dscf3121.jpg

    Cleaned up all the mess and re-assembled. Jump lead to my car battery to hear the engine spin round in fine form
    Nice evening run out to ensure no oil leaks. Just need a push-button to operate it then I can think about the 12v conversion. I will not be saying much about that as there are several good threads on the subject already.

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-dscf3124.jpg
    Last edited by Rod Fryatt; 10-18-2016 at 11:05 AM.
    bilbikek411 and Number13 like this.

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  5. #14
    Senior Member bilbikek411's Avatar
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    Great work Rod I look forward to following your finished full 12vt. conversion
    Last edited by bilbikek411; 10-18-2016 at 11:55 AM.

  6. #15
    Senior Member Simo's Avatar
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    Nice work
    Just put the cb200 stator in
    Its slightly higher 12v output than the Cb175, which is your other option
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  7. #16
    Member Rod Fryatt's Avatar
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    I have left the 175 stator in. I don't do much night riding, if it proves inadequate I can always change it at the next oil change.
    Now for the starter button............... examination of the RH control shows that it was expecting a button but never received one.

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-dscf3128.jpg

    Honda are no fools, the casting is the same for the CB and the UK CD models. In fact when opened up the fixing hole and thread for the switch part is there, just need a hole for a button. Similar situation as the crankcase in fact.

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-dscf4473.jpg

    So, I dismantled the LH control to see how the horn button works. It consists of just five parts. A contact on a paxolin plate, a moving contact fixed in the plastic button, a spring, a brass clamp and screw to fix it.

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-dscf4480.jpg

    Simple parts to make up with materials from the good old scrap box. Drilled hole in RH casting and here it is with newly made parts.

    Fitting a starter motor to a UK CD175 ?-dscf4481.jpg

    When looking for a piece of plastic to turn the button from, the only thing I found was an old screwdriver with a clear plastic handle. During the final assembly I realised that there was room near the button for a tiny LED and limiting resistor. So, the button will now glow blue in the dark when the ignition is on; no reason at all, just for fun and perhaps to intrigue a future owner Only draws 2mA so shouldn't bother the solenoid coil.

  8. #17
    Senior Member Alex jb's Avatar
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    For a 'motor in frame' machining job that's pretty awesome!
    You deserve an Ichiban Moto sticker for this mod!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #18
    Senior Member Alex jb's Avatar
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    You left the CD175 stator in... for now I am guessing?
    Once you go 12v with battery, bulbs and a reg/rec, in my experience the CD stator will not last long.
    Although the AC voltage is over 30v at 4000rpm+ (RMS over 12v) it just doesn't seem up to the task for continued use at 12v and mine gave up after about 3 months of infrequent but high revs use, probably less than 300 miles and killed 2 batteries.
    Had to buy a CL175 12v stator part number from a breaker, only £40 and has been perfect for 250miles and battery is staying full.


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  10. #19
    Senior Member Richard_Pitman's Avatar
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    Rod,

    You have the engineering skills of a clock maker / repairer !

    I'm running a CB200 stator and rotor in my Cb175, timing marks altered to suit, along with a modern (Honda CB600) regulator rectifier wired directly, bypassing all the original wiring and voltage regulator, same as the mod proposed by Ferret, the UK electrics guru. Three wires from stator into reg rec, live and earth direct to battery from reg rec. Modern Motobatt AGM battery.
    1972 Honda CL175

    1999 Honda CB600 Hornet

  11. #20
    Member Rod Fryatt's Avatar
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    Well yes, I have been repairing antique clocks for the last 30 years, semi-retired now. So I do have all the hand tools etc. to hand.
    The consensus seems to be for the cb200 stator so I will fit it when I do the voltage change. Having got the most difficult work over it may well be left until the spring as the bike will not be getting much use over the winter.
    Alex jb likes this.

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