Steering lock turns great, but piston doesn't seem to go far enough
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  1. #1
    Junior Member shredthegnarnia's Avatar
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    Steering lock turns great, but piston doesn't seem to go far enough

    So I've got a 69 CL350, and recently learned that we have steering locks (whee!) Since I park it on the street in Denver, this is great news.

    However, even though the lock cylinder turns and the piston comes out the end, it doesn't go far enough to interact with the stopper tab (which also acts as the stopper for how far either way the bike will steer).

    Steering lock turns great, but piston doesn't seem to go far enough-steering-lock.jpg

    I've tried bending the lock back so that it would engage by means of both hammer (with 1x1 wood "chisel" to soften the blow) and vice grips, and it won't budge. Any ideas? Is the problem in the stopper tab, not the lock? The tab looks like it was welded pretty shoddily...

    What do you guys think?

  2. #2
    Senior Member ancientdad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shredthegnarnia View Post
    So I've got a 69 CL350, and recently learned that we have steering locks (whee!) Since I park it on the street in Denver, this is great news.

    However, even though the lock cylinder turns and the piston comes out the end, it doesn't go far enough to interact with the stopper tab (which also acts as the stopper for how far either way the bike will steer).

    I've tried bending the lock back so that it would engage by means of both hammer (with 1x1 wood "chisel" to soften the blow) and vice grips, and it won't budge. Any ideas? Is the problem in the stopper tab, not the lock? The tab looks like it was welded pretty shoddily...

    What do you guys think?
    Hard to be sure from the side picture, but the factory steering stop on the neck seems to have been "repaired", doesn't look original. A few more pics from different angles might lend more to identifying the issue

  3. #3
    Junior Member shredthegnarnia's Avatar
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    Yeah, it definitely looks janky. I'll try to get some more angles up of the stop. Does anybody have any photos of what a working one should look like?

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  5. #4
    Senior Member ancientdad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shredthegnarnia View Post
    Yeah, it definitely looks janky. I'll try to get some more angles up of the stop. Does anybody have any photos of what a working one should look like?
    Found this from a Google image search, happens to be from a post here actually - took a close-up screenshot. The arrows point to the size and length of the arc of flat steel that is originally attached to the neck, reaches out much further and allows the lock post to work

    Steering lock turns great, but piston doesn't seem to go far enough-350neck.png

  6. #5
    Senior Member ancientdad's Avatar
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    Here's a better view from the front showing the left and right edges and the distance forward it should have to reach the lock post when extended

    Steering lock turns great, but piston doesn't seem to go far enough-st-stop.png

  7. #6
    Junior Member shredthegnarnia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ancientdad View Post
    Here's a better view from the front showing the left and right edges and the distance forward it should have to reach the lock post when extended

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ah very helpful! Thank you. Looks like this will be my first real welding project...thinking I'll just pick up some thick flat steel stock, cut it into that sort of quarter-donut shape with an angle grinder, and weld it on that way. Wish me luck!

  8. #7
    Senior Member bilbikek411's Avatar
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    I read online that bike thieves have a certain way of twisting the steering/handlebars in such a way to snap-off that piece on the frame.When you replace/weld a new part back on there try to leave the least amount of 'play' in the steering lock when it's engaged so that a bike thief won't have a chance to snap it off and steal your bike.I'm saying when it's locked there should be a tight fit w/ the steering/handlebars all the way to one side w/ very little 'side to side' play.

  9. #8
    Senior Member 76TWIN's Avatar
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    Ultimately though if they REALLY want to steal it they will anyway. I had a black bomber CB450 with a trial sidecar stolen from the back of my apartment in Denver back in '92. Parked it and woke up the next morning and it was gone, lock and all.
    '76 CB500T Frankenbike

    Carpe narem.

  10. #9
    Junior Member shredthegnarnia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bilbikek411 View Post
    I read online that bike thieves have a certain way of twisting the steering/handlebars in such a way to snap-off that piece on the frame.When you replace/weld a new part back on there try to leave the least amount of 'play' in the steering lock when it's engaged so that a bike thief won't have a chance to snap it off and steal your bike.I'm saying when it's locked there should be a tight fit w/ the steering/handlebars all the way to one side w/ very little 'side to side' play.
    Gotcha, that makes sense. Thanks for the tip.

  11. #10
    Junior Member shredthegnarnia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 76TWIN View Post
    Ultimately though if they REALLY want to steal it they will anyway. I had a black bomber CB450 with a trial sidecar stolen from the back of my apartment in Denver back in '92. Parked it and woke up the next morning and it was gone, lock and all.
    Mannnn I'm sorry to hear that, sidecar and all huh...sounds like a badass rig, got any photos? And yeah, I hold no illusions that there is any failsafe method, if they were really motivated they'd just lift it up and into the truck. Very doable among 3 strong guys. I'm just looking to prevent the semi-opportunistic thieves

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