1970 CB350 project "Goldie McGoldface" - Page 2
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Thread: 1970 CB350 project "Goldie McGoldface"

  1. #11
    Member arieon69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oklota View Post
    Thanks for the link, exactly what I was looking for... but holy crap these tensioner replacements are pricey!
    But it's so shiny! You need shine for Goldie McGoldface even if you don't see the shine. Oh yeah, and new is important too.

  2. #12
    Member sf350's Avatar
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    Try Bore Tech for great performance parts


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #13
    Senior Member jbc2408's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oklota View Post
    This weekend was spent cleaning and tearing down the bike.

    Scrubbed the bike from head to toe with Simple Green, which helped a little. Years of road grime a pretty hard to remove in one sitting. But it's good enough to start getting pieces off and the engine out.

    First discovery was that the wiring was in worse shape than I thought. For example, an aftermarket ignition was installed and this was how ground was wired.



    Bare wire splices (!) were shorting out on the frame in multiple locations. Wire colors weren't standard. I decided to save some sanity and order a new wiring harness from fellow inmate pawelzak. It's on its way from Poland.

    Found two broken exhaust studs. Bummer. Was to able to get them out after a PB soak. And holy cow, 3-4 exhaust gaskets stuffed on top of each other in the ports! Various sizes of picks were needed to fish these guys out. The lowest level of gaskets had been in there so long they basically disintegrated when any force was put on them.





    Has anyone else ran into trouble removing the foot pegs? One of the bolts on the left side wouldn't come out, it just spins. It looks like a nut was originally welded inside the frame and the welds came loose over time. I had to cut it out with a dremel. The nut was round on the outside, which explains why I couldn't get any leverage on it to hold it still. Looking for advice when it comes time to reinstall... maybe I can simply position a new nut in that box and hold it down enough to tighten the bolt?

    Lots of PB Blaster and impact driver got all of the fasteners out without too much drama. They are all in pretty rough shape so I placed an order with Bolt Depot based on the parts list spreadsheet pinned elsewhere on the forum, that was very helpful. For ~$80 I'll have brand new SS fasteners across the board.

    The front steering stem bearings are totally shot (lots of forward/backward play). The triple trees and bearing races all came out pretty easily with a few taps from a drift punch. If you haven't seen it, Common Motor did an awesome video on YouTube for replacing your steering bearings.

    Removed the swingarm bushings, I'm planning to replace these with new bronze bushings. Surprisingly these hammered out pretty easily as well.

    I could not say the same thing about the lower shock bushings. The powder coater recommended that I remove *everything* from the frame because oil and grease could be trapped in there and ruin the finish when it went into the oven, and I believe these were press fit at the factory. No amount of PB blaster and hammering with a socket were moving them for me. I was seriously worried about bending the swingarm with the force I was using. I decided to weaken them from the inside out with a dremel to relieve the pressure, and sure enough that did the trick!



    The center pipe bushings came out after lots of soaking and hammering. VIN plate removal was fairly easy. Debating whether to replace the original with one of the retros on eBay. The original is pretty damaged, not from the removal, but sometime in the past My wife thinks it will add character/patina to the finished product, I think it will stick out. Any other opinions



    Engine came out pretty easily since I could just lean the frame over at this point onto cardboard.

    Black metal is all ready for powder. Tomorrow I'll start the fun part and dig in to the engine.

    Is it a new wiring? Does it come complete, and what is the price?
    Jesper BC - Copenhagen, Denmark
    80´Honda CB 400 N - 98.000 km
    73´Honda CB 450 - 75.000 km

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  5. #14
    Member oklota's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbc2408 View Post
    Is it a new wiring? Does it come complete, and what is the price?
    You should send a PM to pawelzak. He has multiple options you can order. He also has an eBay store but he gives HondaTwins members a discount. All brand new wiring harness, correctly color coded. I order the regulator/rectifier combo from him as well. Harness and reg/rec were $129 shipped, by far the best prices I was able to find on both and the feedback I was able to find here on the forum was positive. I haven't received it, so can't speak to quality personally just yet.
    bilbikek411 likes this.
    1970 CB450 K3
    1970 CB350 K2

  6. #15
    Member oklota's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sf350 View Post
    Try Bore Tech for great performance parts
    Thanks for the suggestion. I had actually already found the Bore Tech kit but am not a fan of having to modify/grind the head.
    1970 CB450 K3
    1970 CB350 K2

  7. #16
    Senior Member bilbikek411's Avatar
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    Nice looking project on your CB350K2;I've always liked the K2 very much and I'm glad you're bringing it back to stock
    I know your orig. Vin plate has that scratched area but the rest of it looks good..
    oklota likes this.

  8. #17
    Member oklota's Avatar
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    Ordered a replacement cam chain tensioner, and am debating ordering a new cam chain. It looks fine to me but I'm pretty sure it's original... nearly 50 years and 38,000 miles are bound to stretch it so I'll probably just replace it while I have everything apart.

    At this point engine is basically blocked until I get back all the parts, so moving on to the forks. Under the covers the upper fork tubes were rusted pretty bad. Thankfully the seals seem to have held the water back and the pipe is still spotless on the sliding portion. Soaking the pipe and in metal rescue for a day or two and will scrub with fine steel wool to clean it up.



    The lower forks (like most of the aluminum on the bike) were chipped and yellow with flaking clear coat. A quick spray with some paint stripper washed away the clear coat, and I spent about an hour on the one side. First by hand with a scotch brite, then buffing compound with a cloth wheel, and finished with metal polish on a cloth wheel. Still needs a little more work, but I'm happy with how it cleaned up so far.

    bilbikek411 and 540nova like this.
    1970 CB450 K3
    1970 CB350 K2

  9. #18
    Senior Member Harsh's Avatar
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    To pull out the pins in the shift forks you can use a magnet. It also helps when installing them. The rubber damper is not necessary on the studs. I ran into the same issue on my current build. I think your VIN plate is good. If you want some rivets to replace the ones you removed with let me know and I will send you a few, I have a box of them.

  10. #19
    Member oklota's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oklota View Post
    You should send a PM to pawelzak. He has multiple options you can order. He also has an eBay store but he gives HondaTwins members a discount. All brand new wiring harness, correctly color coded. I order the regulator/rectifier combo from him as well. Harness and reg/rec were $129 shipped, by far the best prices I was able to find on both and the feedback I was able to find here on the forum was positive. I haven't received it, so can't speak to quality personally just yet.
    Received a special delivery from Poland @pawelzak, I'm impressed! Dzięki!

    If anyone else is looking for a replacement wiring harness, this is quality kit. Highly recommended. Even comes with extra connectors and blocks, like to convert your round connector on your ignition, if needed.

    1970 CB450 K3
    1970 CB350 K2

  11. #20
    Member oklota's Avatar
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    Got the forks all buttoned up and waiting for the frame for reassembly. The forks were in pretty rough shape and I'm happy with how they cleaned up. The really bad parts on the pipe aren't visible anyway and Metal Rescue and some fine steel wool made them pretty smooth. The chrome on the sliding surfaces is intact so no worries there. New fork seals installed via the trusty PVC pipe, so on to the next piece of the puzzle.

    But first, I always love before and after pictures...



    1970 CB450 K3
    1970 CB350 K2

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