Sha's 1968 CB350 Project
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  1. #1
    sha
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    Sha's 1968 CB350 Project

    I'm happy to have this little bike in my life to learn with. I'm fairly inexperienced but very determined and eager to learn; I appreciate any advice and respectful discussion. I've seen a lot of good people and learned a lot of good things just reading the forum so far. I would consider this a restoration, but I would say that loosely-- I'm not die-hard tied to OEM or anything. I just want to honor the bike and get it running well. I lean toward cafe-racer styling if anything, but am not currently interested in building this bike out. I'm definitely more mechanically-minded than electrically-- electric systems are completely unknown land for me. Mechanical work is much more natural-- I grew up around motorcycles, british sports-cars, and my own first car that needed constant work.

    Purchased Dec 14th: Kickstarted once at purchase and didn't run again after that. PO said that it only needed the petcock replacing. As of 12/26 and the following simple things completed, I have the bike running, though it bogs down in 3rd pretty seriously like it wants to die/feels like it's running out of gas.

    Sha's 1968 CB350 Project-sha1968cb350.jpg

    Done:
    • Battery charged/kept on float
    • Tank drained
    • Fuel lines replaced
    • Petcock replaced
    • New air filters (David Silver Spares)
    • New Spark Plugs (gap checked, good)
    • Oil change & centrifuge cleaning (Rotella 15w40)


    Need:
    • Carb clean
    • New battery (I think)
    • New Tires
    • Speedometer cable lubrication (speedo doesn't work-- first step)
    • New Seat (I want a stock shaped one, the flat style from '68, but dark brown)
    • Tank Coating
    • Lower viscosity oil (want 15w30)
    • Spark Plug Cables
    • Probably new electric cables
    • New mirrors (open to suggestions/styles-- original perches are fine, but right side mirror is bent up/rusted and left is missing)
    • New oil drain plug (it's quite rounded off)
    • Set screws for both metal air filter covers (they snap into place but the set screws are missing-- size?)
    • Repaint the enamel in the tank badges (this is easy, I'm a sign-painter & artist, I use 1shot enamels daily)


    Want:
    • Replacement headlight (one point is so dented that it is very rusted, on the right side where someone damaged it-- fuel tank is also crunched right there from the fork)
    • OEM tailpipes
    • New grips to match new seat
    • Hidden handebar cables (so ugly right now)
    • Bullit helmet
    • *Preserve* the original paint, if possible, but it isn't in excellent shape-- so if I have to repaint, I'm considering matte olive-green powdercoating. However, my main goal is preserving the paint on the bike right now.


    Problems:
    1. Shifting UP into Neutral engages the neutral indicator light, but does NOT disengage first. Shifting DOWN into neutral (So up into 2nd and back down) DOES go into neutral.
    2. Starts very weakly and indecisively, but decides to continue with some throttle
    3. Bogs in 3rd (I expect a carb cleaning will help, perhaps some seafoam before that point?)
    4. I cannot kickstart this thing for the life of me-- not even a bit-- but the PO kickstarted it, one time, before I started working on everything.
    5. Speedometer doesn't work (probably a simple fix-- just didn't know about it until I got it running yesterday)
    Last edited by sha; 12-27-2016 at 06:31 AM.
    1968 CB350 • 1999 Shadow ACE 1100


  2. #2
    Senior Member 540nova's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum! From your description and lists I can tell you have your head on straight, that's a great start!
    If you haven't already, grab a manual, and do the 3000 mile tune-up.
    You've come to the right place, this forum is a gold mine of information.
    Have fun!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    sha
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    Quote Originally Posted by 540nova View Post
    Welcome to the forum! From your description and lists I can tell you have your head on straight, that's a great start!
    If you haven't already, grab a manual, and do the 3000 mile tune-up.
    You've come to the right place, this forum is a gold mine of information.
    Have fun!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks much, 540nova! I have the Clymer manual and a PDF printout of the old Honda owners manual-- I find the owner's manual more useful than the Clymer, to be honest! Sha's 1968 CB350 Project-screen-shot-2016-12-27-8.31.13-am.png
    My favorite passage... LOL
    1968 CB350 • 1999 Shadow ACE 1100


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  5. #4
    Super Moderator outobie's Avatar
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    put the clymer on the shelf and get a factory service manual...clymer is ok as optional reading but there are mistakes in it. the factory manual is correct but sometimes doesn't explain things well.

    for electrical stuff, make sure your grounds are all clean and there are no damaged or loose connections...if you find any damaged terminals replacements can be had at "vintage connections"

    these bikes need strong batteries to run well

    some good upgrades are to get new coils, new spark plug end caps, electronic ignition and a modern regulator/rectifier.

    they will make your bike run much more consistently and reliably

    lube all cables
    replace your brake shoes immediately (the 40 year old ones are beginning to delaminate on several bikes and it's not worth the risk)

    your stearing head and swingarm bearings/bushings were poorly greased from the factory and likely need cleaning/inspection/greasing and or replacement if worn.

    drain the 40 year old goo from your forks and replace with modern 10W fork oil (its a good idea to completely disassemble the forks and clean them and replace the oil seals)

    David Silver Spares sells reproduction mufflers (look better and provide better midrange power than the shorties you have now)

    the transmissions in these bikes do not have synchronizer rings...they will never shift like a modern bike. best to shift while the bike is moving. use a good oil and change it frequently including cleaning out the oil filter slinger. shifting gets harder when the motor is running hot. make sure your timing and fuel mixture are set properly to keep the motor running at a good temp.

    when ever i get a new bike I fill the cylinders with sea foam and let it sit for 2 weeks. then drain & fill the oil and run it hard for 20 miles...this breaks up the tarnish on the rings which can tend to stick. then change the oil immediately again to see what it looks like.
    Last edited by outobie; 12-27-2016 at 07:52 AM.
    540nova and sha like this.
    CB350 K5 - Uber Café- Engine build 3
    CL350 K4 - Cafe build done waiting on final assembly
    CB350 K0 - Full restoration w/Hondaline bags & fairing
    SL350 K2 - Bubba Shobert flat track build on deck
    CB-1 400F - unrestored mint rider
    2012 Guzzi V7 Racer - Daily Ride

  6. #5
    Senior Member drytoe's Avatar
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    That's pretty much the bike my dad had when I was tiny. Eventually I'd like to get one (I believe his was a '69 350, blue and white) which I'd keep stock.

    By the way, well written post. Often times I find it hard to follow what someone is trying to say on here due to a sort of stream-of-consciousness style of writing, including typos.
    540nova, sha and ancientdad like this.
    Devin

    Current Honda Owner - '75 CB360 Cafe
    Current and Future Forum Pest

  7. #6
    sha
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    Thanks for the compliments, drytoe. I always hope to express myself clearly.

    Outobie, what a comprehensive reply. Thank you very much. I'll add some things to my checklist-- I was looking at these:

    Honda CB350 Mufflers | Common Motor Collective

    Does anyone have any experience with them? As far as I can tell, that's the price for both, so not bad at all.
    1968 CB350 • 1999 Shadow ACE 1100


  8. #7
    Super Moderator outobie's Avatar
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    by the way, it looks like your carbs are from a later model...make sure you get the parts for your carb (check numbers stamped on carb body) rather than for your year...stick with OEM honda carb parts or you will have tuning issues if aftermarket is used.

    when lining your tank don't use Kreem...it's terrible.

    the angle on your rear brake linkage looks a bit wonky...see what the issue are

    if your tank is dented by the fork check to make sure the steering stop tab on the bottom of the steering stock is still intact and straight. the fork shouldn't be able to touch the tank without bending/braking the steering stop.

    check frame for alignment and cracks.
    common crack areas are:
    - on the frame down tube where the top rear motor mounds are...especially the left one.
    - on the top tube where the down tube is welded in
    - bottom front left engine case where it mounts to the frame.
    CB350 K5 - Uber Café- Engine build 3
    CL350 K4 - Cafe build done waiting on final assembly
    CB350 K0 - Full restoration w/Hondaline bags & fairing
    SL350 K2 - Bubba Shobert flat track build on deck
    CB-1 400F - unrestored mint rider
    2012 Guzzi V7 Racer - Daily Ride

  9. #8
    sha
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    Quote Originally Posted by outobie View Post
    by the way, it looks like your carbs are from a later model...make sure you get the parts for your carb (check numbers stamped on carb body) rather than for your year...stick with OEM honda carb parts or you will have tuning issues if aftermarket is used.

    when lining your tank don't use Kreem...it's terrible.

    the angle on your rear brake linkage looks a bit wonky...see what the issue are

    if your tank is dented by the fork check to make sure the steering stop tab on the bottom of the steering stock is still intact and straight. the fork shouldn't be able to touch the tank without bending/braking the steering stop.

    check frame for alignment and cracks.
    common crack areas are:
    - on the frame down tube where the top rear motor mounds are...especially the left one.
    - on the top tube where the down tube is welded in
    - bottom front left engine case where it mounts to the frame.
    You have an excellent eye; I'll check on everything you mentioned when I get home today. Thanks again!
    1968 CB350 • 1999 Shadow ACE 1100


  10. #9
    Senior Member 83XLX's Avatar
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    From what I can see from the picture, that's a fairly intact survivor. The older 350s are harder to find in unmolested condition - I'd try to preserve as much of it as possible. If you get the urge to customize, buy some beat-up donor parts on eBay to cut, paint, etc. and save the original parts. Good luck with it!
    ancientdad likes this.
    1969 Honda CL350
    1983 H-D XLX-61 Sportster

  11. #10
    sha
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    Thanks for your words and suggestions, everyone. Happy to be here. Eager to share progress-- tomorrow I'll limp to the gas station and start a tank of seafoam so that it can be doing its magic during the rest of this busy week.
    1968 CB350 • 1999 Shadow ACE 1100


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