Drixton 500 twin build - Page 35
Page 35 of 39 FirstFirst ... 25 33 34 35 36 37 ... LastLast
Results 341 to 350 of 382
Like Tree78Likes

Thread: Drixton 500 twin build

  1. #341
    Senior Member sport&road's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Metung, Victoria Australia
    Posts
    227
    Quote Originally Posted by crazypj View Post
    Sounds about right, the baskets can get damaged/distorted without cracking. (particularly if they have been annealed, dead easy in an oven @375f)
    Was it a modified stock or a 'custom' casting'?
    Just looked like the back of the basket wasn't machined correctly. The lip on the casting was higher one side than the other. I could have fixed it myself but needed to make up a jig to hold it backwards in the lathe. More work involved than getting a good one from Franco.

    It was a stock Honda basket.

  2. #342
    Senior Member dtsmjr8dan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Windsor, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    8,538
    I think your build is amazing, S&R, and that you could easily be the host of an anger management course.
    ancientdad likes this.
    1979 CM400T (rider),
    1981 CM400T (in surgery receiving transplant)
    1982 CM450 (parts bike)
    1982 CB450 (parts bike)
    Past rides: Vincents, Triumph, BSA's, Suzuki's, Twingle, Corgy, others.
    Remember, today is the tomorrow we worried about yesterday.
    My chest fell, but, fortunately, my belt caught it.
    I don't know everything, nor, have I met the one who does.

    T-shirt sales supporting 66Sprint's LSR Build http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/22-...d-attempt.html

  3. #343
    Supporting Member crazypj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Central Florida-Altamonte Springs. Sometimes South Wales UK
    Posts
    1,530
    You could probably machine it just by reversing 3 jaw chuck jaws and holding on inside. Alternatively, (if lathe is big enough) turn a piece of plywood to fit inside and clamp on outside. Third method would be mount on faceplate. It isn't a super precision part 0.003"~0.005" run out wouldn't cause enough extra vibration to worry about (and if your chuck is reasonably accurate you may get better numbers.) Use a ducting hose clamp (Jubilee clip) or two around outside of basket to prevent the 'fingers' getting snapped off and take small cuts (0.001"~0.003") as you won't have things super tight. You can also shim under where your clamping it to get things true (buy some cheap feeler gauges and use them for shims) If you don't need to machine centre bore you could turn a mandrel to hold it in place (not that I've ever had to do things like that ) It may be worth doing sometime so you have a spare ready?
    Last edited by crazypj; 01-08-2017 at 10:14 AM.
    There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't
    I'm not a complete idiot, but, I'm working on it

  4. Remove Advertisements
    HondaTwins.net
    Advertisements
     

  5. #344
    Senior Member sport&road's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Metung, Victoria Australia
    Posts
    227
    Quote Originally Posted by dtsmjr8dan View Post
    I think your build is amazing, S&R, and that you could easily be the host of an anger management course.
    Thank you, but being of Scots background I have the ability to lose it at the drop of a hat. Why I haven't with this build I have no idea. Just philosophical I guess due to the fact I have been around race bikes since I was 21 years of age, so I know it is of no use.
    dtsmjr8dan and ancientdad like this.

  6. #345
    Senior Member sport&road's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Metung, Victoria Australia
    Posts
    227
    Quote Originally Posted by crazypj View Post
    You could probably machine it just by reversing 3 jaw chuck jaws and holding on inside. Alternatively, (if lathe is big enough) turn a piece of plywood to fit inside and clamp on outside. Third method would be mount on faceplate. It isn't a super precision part 0.003"~0.005" run out wouldn't cause enough extra vibration to worry about (and if your chuck is reasonably accurate you may get better numbers.) Use a ducting hose clamp (Jubilee clip) or two around outside of basket to prevent the 'fingers' getting snapped off and take small cuts (0.001"~0.003") as you won't have things super tight. You can also shim under where your clamping it to get things true (buy some cheap feeler gauges and use them for shims) If you don't need to machine centre bore you could turn a mandrel to hold it in place (not that I've ever had to do things like that ) It may be worth doing sometime so you have a spare ready?
    Difficult to hold these baskets in reverse without building a jig to bolt it to. Nothing to register off. The result would probably be worse than the starting point. The replacement from Franco was free and it is his fault anyway so I didn't waste my time.

  7. #346
    Supporting Member crazypj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Central Florida-Altamonte Springs. Sometimes South Wales UK
    Posts
    1,530
    LOL
    There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't
    I'm not a complete idiot, but, I'm working on it

  8. #347
    Senior Member sport&road's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Metung, Victoria Australia
    Posts
    227
    Right. The whole lot is going back together as of last night. I have adjusted the ring gap positions in the bores knowing that they move anyway.

    What I have done this time is locked the crank at TDC. I used an old gear and locked it against the primary end of the crank. you get upwards of 20 degrees rock at TDC on these things and with adjustable cam gears it is critical to hold absolute TDC.

    Drixton 500 twin build-20170111_182435.jpg

    Drixton 500 twin build-20170111_182420.jpg

  9. #348
    Senior Member ancientdad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Inverness FL
    Posts
    1,109
    Quote Originally Posted by sport&road View Post
    Thank you, but being of Scots background I have the ability to lose it at the drop of a hat. Why I haven't with this build I have no idea. Just philosophical I guess due to the fact I have been around race bikes since I was 21 years of age, so I know it is of no use.
    And from my perspective, there's always more to do once you lose your cool and damage something in the process... I know from personal experience. More productive to just yell a bit and get it out of your system, then move on to doing it better than the time before. (I live in the sticks, so my yelling echoes through the trees a little... I'm sure the neighbors hear it, but I'm pretty well concealed in my garage behind the house! I'm sure they think I'm a lunatic by now...)
    Finnigan likes this.

  10. #349
    Senior Member sport&road's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Metung, Victoria Australia
    Posts
    227
    I have re assembled the engine again over the last two or three nights after work. It makes a huge difference when you know what to expect. The Nova six speed gearbox is in, fits and operates beautifully. Hopefully my short shipped gearbox bits will be here in the next day or so. Again, when you buy these things they don't provide any advice or info when assembling. They build this gear set to run without a shim on the input shaft between the needle roller bearing and 2nd gear, but they don't tell you. The factory box has two shims and Nova only run one on the output shaft. They also don't tell you that the selector drum shaft is much shorter than the factory drum and does not engage the case seal. I have machined up an aluminium blanking plug and glued it in place with JB Weld where the seal normally sits. The clutch lifter is also different which I would have twigged to if they had managed to send me one. The bits they forgot should be here today or tomorrow.

    The cam timing was a doddle this time. I have just adjusted the exhaust a bit to bring it back into spec @64 degrees. I learned last time that there is a lot of rock at TDC. The crank can move quite easily between 10 degrees before and 10 degrees after TDC so I actually locked the crank in the TDC position to get accuracy when installing the head and cams. Whilst the degree wheel was in place I also marked the inlet cam at 35 degrees BTDC for the static ignition timing. Just makes it easier to install the rotor as it runs without a key way.

    You will notice in the photos that there is a thread on the clutch side of the input shaft instead of the factory circlip. They forgot to send me the nut / washer as well, so that is coming with the other bits. I have machined the inner clutch hub with clearance so you can get a socket over the nut to assemble it.

    Drixton 500 twin build-gearbox-2-.jpgDrixton 500 twin build-gearbox-1-.jpgDrixton 500 twin build-gearbox-3-.jpg
    Last edited by sport&road; 01-12-2017 at 06:21 PM.
    ancientdad likes this.

  11. #350
    Senior Member ancientdad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Inverness FL
    Posts
    1,109
    Quote Originally Posted by sport&road View Post
    I have re assembled the engine again over the last two or three nights after work. It makes a huge difference when you know what to expect. The Nova six speed gearbox is in, fits and operates beautifully. Hopefully my short shipped gearbox bits will be here in the next day or so. Again, when you buy these things they don't provide any advice or info when assembling. They build this gear set to run without a shim on the input shaft between the needle roller bearing and 2nd gear, but they don't tell you. The factory box has two shims and Nova only run one on the output shaft. They also don't tell you that the selector drum shaft is much shorter than the factory drum and does not engage the case seal. I have machined up an aluminium blanking plug and glued it in place with JB Weld where the seal normally sits. The clutch lifter is also different which I would have twigged to if they had managed to send me one. The bits they forgot should be here today or tomorrow.

    The cam timing was a doddle this time. I have just adjusted the exhaust a bit to bring it back into spec @64 degrees. I learned last time that there is a lot of rock at TDC. The crank can move quite easily between 10 degrees before and 10 degrees after TDC so I actually locked the crank in the TDC position to get accuracy when installing the head and cams. Whilst the degree wheel was in place I also marked the inlet cam at 35 degrees BTDC for the static ignition timing. Just makes it easier to install the rotor as it runs without a key way.

    You will notice in the photos that there is a thread on the clutch side of the input shaft instead of the factory circlip. They forgot to send me the nut / washer as well, so that is coming with the other bits. I have machined the inner clutch hub with clearance so you can get a socket over the nut to assemble it.
    It never seems to end, does it? You've been victimized at nearly every turn once you got close to the finished product... I'm sure screaming at the suppliers wouldn't help any, but it would be hard for me not to if I were in your position. Again, good job compensating along the way.

Page 35 of 39 FirstFirst ... 25 33 34 35 36 37 ... LastLast

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Search tags for this page

asa moyce bartel engineering

,

bruce woodley crankshaft

,

bruce woodley powerflow

,

bruce woodley powerflow engineering

,

drixton cb 350

,

drixton fork yokes

,

drixton frame

,

drixton honda 450

,

drixton honda 500

Click on a term to search our site for related topics.